Need help with Head gasket, arp studs or moving on.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 7:06 pm

Did you use new copper washers on the injectors? It will prolly quiet down once the air gets out

JDaPP · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 7:11 pm

Sounds like a old v8 sitting at idle for the rumble

JDaPP · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 7:50 pm

Put egr hose back on rumble went away. Wasn't clamped down enough.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 7:53 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

X2. If it cranks but won't "fire" than you need to crack an injector line. I always crack number 4 and spin the cp3 by hand before I put it back together. And yes, it's normal for the tensioner to move after a couple rotation. That is another I always check when I rotate by hand and re insert pins. Usually have to tighten the tensioner to get it back in the window.

Okay so I need to put pins back in, line everything back up and then readjust tensioner? Just want to confirm.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 7:55 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

Did you use new copper washers on the injectors? It will prolly quiet down once the air gets out

I did put new copper washers on and new orings. I can't get #4 injector to stop leaking. Going to tighten it down one more time. If that doesn't work, any suggestions.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 8:18 pm

JDaPP wrote:

jws84_02 wrote:

X2. If it cranks but won't "fire" than you need to crack an injector line. I always crack number 4 and spin the cp3 by hand before I put it back together. And yes, it's normal for the tensioner to move after a couple rotation. That is another I always check when I rotate by hand and re insert pins. Usually have to tighten the tensioner to get it back in the window.

Okay so I need to put pins back in, line everything back up and then readjust tensioner? Just want to confirm.

You don't need to put the pins in, just put the tensioner tool back in place and loosen the tensioner bolt - Pull it tight to where the gauge is set right, and tighten the bolt again.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 9:30 pm

geordi wrote:

JDaPP wrote:

jws84_02 wrote:

X2. If it cranks but won't "fire" than you need to crack an injector line. I always crack number 4 and spin the cp3 by hand before I put it back together. And yes, it's normal for the tensioner to move after a couple rotation. That is another I always check when I rotate by hand and re insert pins. Usually have to tighten the tensioner to get it back in the window.

Okay so I need to put pins back in, line everything back up and then readjust tensioner? Just want to confirm.

You don't need to put the pins in, just put the tensioner tool back in place and loosen the tensioner bolt - Pull it tight to where the gauge is set right, and tighten the bolt again.

What Geordi said. I just combined 2 steps when I was explaining it. I always rotate by hand and then re inset pins to make sure everything is still in time and then remove and check the tensioner.

As for #4. Is it leaking out the fuel line or down where the injectors seats to the head?

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 9:43 pm

I have a injector seat tool if the copper washer won't seal up. I also have some extra washers if you need.

Mike

rankom · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 10:10 pm

if its leaking compression ,copper washer is not sealed (DO NOT TIGHTEN OR HOLD DOWN BOLT ANY MORE) you will strip the threads in cylinder head , contact MIKE he has a tool to clean injector cup ,

JDaPP · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2016 3:45 pm

rankom wrote:

if its leaking compression ,copper washer is not sealed (DO NOT TIGHTEN OR HOLD DOWN BOLT ANY MORE) you will strip the threads in cylinder head , contact MIKE he has a tool to clean injector cup ,

Yep, already in touch. I just made sure the hold down bolts were torqued to FSM specs (although I am leery of some of those even). I think it was the fuel line fittings so I tightened them down and then I will check it tonight when I get home.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2016 11:15 pm

Good newsish. Fuel leak is stopped. Took it for a test drive. Had some squealing from right in the general area of the turbo. That cleared after a half mile but I am hearing more of a whoosh sound than I am used to (have not driven it in a month so maybe I am hearing things.) also there is a sizzling sound in the exhaust/turbo area after shutdown. I am thinking it is residual fluids from refilling, but not sure. Thoughts?

JDaPP · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2016 11:23 pm

Whoosh sound and original squealing was on acceleration.
If exhaust was not tightly aligned to turbo could that cause it?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 04, 2016 9:03 am

A whoosh sound under acceleration is typically a boost leak.

Squealing could be a loose drive belt. Was the AC on?
Hopefully not the turbo.

Exhaust leaks are loud and can be heard at idle.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Fri Aug 05, 2016 9:18 pm

A/c not on, but squeal seems to have worked itself out.
I think the whoosh issue is the clamp from exhaust to the turbo. Ordered a new one but it won't get here until next week. I am going to try and see if I could manipulate the clamp some to seal better. I looked at autozone for some sort of wrap but they all have sticky material to them and I don't want anything permanent.
All the hoses seem to be good and I had Mike ride with me and the noise seems to be coming from that exhaust/turbo area. Certainly open to ideas if there is somewhere else around the turbo that might be leaking. Happens (at least to where it is noticeable) on acceleration.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Sat Aug 06, 2016 4:18 pm

Was able to mess with the exhaust/clamp. That seemed to do the trick. Thank you to everyone that helped out. I really appreciate it. True credit to this forum and the people on it.

Need help with Head gasket, arp studs or moving on.

Who is online