06' KJ CRD
~120K miles

Rebuilt the top end due to oil soot valavetrain failure @ ~80K. (now have GDE HOT w/EGR delete)

I was replacing my fan clutch the other day (my first hayden failed (locked on), onto my 2nd),

It was the first time I had the engine running with the plastic cover off in a very long time, and I noticed my #1 injector was leaking.

I thought to myself, no big deal, went to ID parts, bought a new set of o-rings and crush washers.

Got the injector out (it was a witch, thanks, geordi and others for the advice to use PB-blaster), cleaned it all up, installed the new o-ring and crush washer.

Started it up, and noticed the injector was jumping up and down about 1/16".

Shut it off, pulled it all apart again.

I made ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the threads for the retainer bolt into the head were clean.

I went and searched these forums, read about the "buttons", Took a picture, I Can very clearly see what looks like a round steel button with a mark on it where the crows foot goes.



Put the crow foot back on, tightened the bolt to about 5 ft/lbs....

And the crows foot had play. As far as I could tell, the bolt had bottomed out BEFORE it was putting pressure on the crows foot.

Took it all apart again, double checked everything, then put 2 washers on the bolt.

Tightened it down to about 5 ft/lbs....

The crows foot was snug.

Tightened it down to ~30 ft/lbs

took it for a drive

It hasn't ran this well in a long time (ever?) the torque off idle is very much improved.

But now I'm worried about that bolt.
Will it snap? will it pull the threads out? why the hell did I have to add washers to get it to push the crows foot down and crush the copper washer?
Have I had too long of a bolt in there for 40K miles? Did I mix it up with another engine bolt, and it's been like that ever since?
Are these bolts TTY and have I stretched it? that much?

And looking at this post
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76282

papaindigo


Injectors not staying solidly down sounds like my problem!

And what does X2 on the bottons mean?
How does one torque down the button, it looks like a steel pedestal sitting in the valve cover.

Does he mean X2 as in I agree with what you just said about the buttons? That would make more sense. Can anyone confirm by looking at my picture that my button is in fact there?

I was using a lot of compressed air..... I could have blown it away, but it looks like it' there..... If it's missing, can I source another one?

Yes, you mixed the bolts up. Happens. You won't yank the threads out if you haven't already.

x2 is just his way of agreeing with whatever other post he was responding to.

Yes, you have the button there. You can leave it as it is now, sounds like everything is running well. Glad to hear it.

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Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

So we're certain that that's the button in my picture? it's not like the thickness of a quarter or anything that would sit on top of that?


That basically means I've been driving for about 40K miles, towing heavy loads up big mountain passes with my injector leaking and being held in place by carbon buildup, and virtually no pressure on the crowsfoot.

hmmm

There is no shim that sits on top of that flat spot. I bet you just mixed the bolts up, I do it sometimes too but its obvious when it doesn't torque down right.

_________________
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"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
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Well I'l be a son of a witch (for 40K miles)

Thanks guys!

Also make sure the injector seat is VERY clean. its hard to get all the gunk out but it is important for the crush washer seal.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Thanks

I got it pretty clean


it's done now

if it leaks again, I'm going to order a new bolt and a new plate then deal with it when they arrive.