What have you done to your KK lately

CorporeSano · **Joined:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:36 pm **Posts:** 75

I've been getting the loose gas cap error code ( P0457 ) for awhile on and off. Lately it increased so I replaced the gas cap to no avail. After looking deeper I found the Issue!
Replaced the Canister Purge Valve line in the engine bay. It was cracked on both ends.
PART NUMBER 52125201AF Liberty KK 2012

CorporeSano · **Joined:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:36 pm **Posts:** 75

I also installed the HD cooling for the Liberty KK.
Clutch, Fan and 4 bolts was all that I needed to order for parts. There are a few posts with instructions, however if you remove the reservoir tank and don't tip it over, you can keep the coolant inside. After unbolting the fan shroud maneuver it sideways and side to side to get if off without removing the upper and lower radiator hoses. After installing the fan onto the clutch ( It's indicated which side is front on the fan) then put the clutch onto the threads on the water pump. (Loctite and a good 25lb torque).

Some notable differences after the installation..
1. The engine bay area is substantially cooler with this installed.
2. It will spin full speed on startup when the car has been sitting out in the sun (Florida). It slows down within 30-45 seconds.
3. After having a radiator leak (side of radiator), a battery explode (Interstate Green Top) and the heat damage to the evap lines, I decided that heat was definitely an issue.

CorporeSano · **Joined:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:36 pm **Posts:** 75

Giggity!!! Can't wait to get home and install the 4.7 throttle body!

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Sat Aug 20, 2016 3:41 pm

CorporeSano wrote:

I've been getting the loose gas cap error code ( P0457 ) for awhile on and off. Lately it increased so I replaced the gas cap to no avail. After looking deeper I found the Issue!
Replaced the Canister Purge Valve line in the engine bay. It was cracked on both ends.
PART NUMBER 52125201AF Liberty KK 2012

Quite a few of us get the gas cap related codes... One thing that sucks is that you can not pin poi t an evap issue as easily as you can with an engine issue such as a misfire. Ive had the loose gas cap code for almost 9 months now. Hope the new line completly solves your issue!

KrazyKK · **Joined:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:19 pm **Posts:** 87

New tires - Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015's - P245/70/16 LT

And, about 1" clevis lift in the front to level it out. It definitely looks meaner and the tires look much, much nicer than the old poopy highway tires I had before. The new stance alone is awesome.

CorporeSano · **Joined:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:36 pm **Posts:** 75

Here are some pictures of the completed install of the K&N intake on my 2012 KK. I upgraded the throttle body to the 4.7 and used a 3" to 3" adaptor from Loews to connect the throttle body to the K&N intake. I did also remove all the K&N logos, even though I'll loose about 10HP from the logos alone :ROTFL:

I do notice more noise during acceleration and better coasting, also notable is a slight increase in power during takeoffs and beyond 45mph. Also I am getting a slight whistle at high rpms when I let off the gas... I'm going to check my connections in the morning... Did anyone else have a loose hose connection from the vent in the middle of the 3" tube that goes to the upper engine? I noticed some oil on the factory hose and the K&N one was waaaay loose!

CorporeSano · **Joined:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:36 pm **Posts:** 75

PALIFTED...Yeah so far so good on the engine light staying off. I think this fixed it for now.

KRAZY KK.. Can you take a picture from the side of the front of your KK. I want to see the clearance between the brush guard and the front bumper, grill, headlights.

KrazyKK · **Joined:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:19 pm **Posts:** 87

Yeah, I can when I get home from work tomorrow. There is not much between the brush guard and bumper though. Maybe half an inch. I probably wouldn't advise anybody to buy one of em' ... in the event of a front end collision it would most likely just do more damage than if you had a lower profile tube 'bull bar'. I like the look but it is just a placeholder.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:18 pm

Dont believe the power gains. We all have basically installed the 4.7 tb and all that you get from it is more noise and if you dont have the hypertech no power gains unless you disable o/d. Towing from my testing you gain .2 mpg. Regular city driving theres almost zero added mpg unless you have a 3" exhaust. And with the k&n drop in, intake temps are sky high so in reality you're loosing power. A cai with a 4.7 tb works fairly well compared to the factory 3.7 tb and "cai".

KrazyKK · **Joined:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:19 pm **Posts:** 87

Here ya go CorporeSano.

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:42 am

PALiftedKK wrote:

Dont believe the power gains. We all have basically installed the 4.7 tb and all that you get from it is more noise and if you dont have the hypertech no power gains unless you disable o/d. Towing from my testing you gain .2 mpg. Regular city driving theres almost zero added mpg unless you have a 3" exhaust. And with the k&n drop in, intake temps are sky high so in reality you're loosing power. A cai with a 4.7 tb works fairly well compared to the factory 3.7 tb and "cai".

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^this

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:43 am

CorporeSano wrote:

Here are some pictures of the completed install of the K&N intake on my 2012 KK. I upgraded the throttle body to the 4.7 and used a 3" to 3" adaptor from Loews to connect the throttle body to the K&N intake. I did also remove all the K&N logos, even though I'll loose about 10HP from the logos alone :ROTFL:

I do notice more noise during acceleration and better coasting, also notable is a slight increase in power during takeoffs and beyond 45mph. Also I am getting a slight whistle at high rpms when I let off the gas... I'm going to check my connections in the morning... Did anyone else have a loose hose connection from the vent in the middle of the 3" tube that goes to the upper engine? I noticed some oil on the factory hose and the K&N one was waaaay loose!

Got to love K&Ns bull crap advertising
If you look at real world testing they are the worst there is

CorporeSano · **Joined:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:36 pm **Posts:** 75

I'm actually going to make a custom filter after the K&N to see if I can capture what people are saying gets past the K&N. I'm going to basically take apart a FRAM air filter and use a couple sheets sandwiched in-between one of the connections on the intake.. Prolly right after the filter.

CorporeSano · **Joined:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:36 pm **Posts:** 75

KrazyKK your liberty looks good! I like the push bumper for sure. Have you had any issue with rust on the steel craft brand? I had the side bars and bull bar in the front and everything rusted within a year or so.

KrazyKK · **Joined:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:19 pm **Posts:** 87

So far... No. But... Mine has not seen a single winter yet haha. Only had it for a few months now.

442stu · **Posted:** Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:03 am

Bunch of nonsense. Their graphs show no gains until ~3200rpm, and minimal after that. How often do you even see those rpms in normal daily use? You probably end up flooring it more to hear the nice sounds and wasting more gas in the long run. Why mess with something that was engineered by the factory to perform a certain way, and cobble it up with redneck solutions like 2 filters? Only looking to solve problems that don't exist. The kk needs more bottom end grunt, and the most effective way to achieve that is with a gearing change, period. Why do you think jk rubicons have 4.10 gears vs. 3.73 for std jk's?

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Wed Aug 24, 2016 2:45 pm

The reason why most upgrade the tb and intake is that they think it'll provide more power. It will but really only if you stick with the same diameter for exhaust and intake. Hence a 3" throttle body and a 3" exhaust will perform marginally better then a 3" intake and a 2.5" and or factory id exhaust. If you tow frequently the 4.7 tb with a 3" exhaust is a super great idea. Going 70 mph (if your even able to) rpms will be near 3k. The larger tb is a great idea for frequent towers.

It will indeed lower fuel efficiancy reguardless.

Even if you install it just because, its a cool mod reguardless.

442stu · **Posted:** Wed Aug 24, 2016 3:10 pm

3" exhaust on a 3.7L engine? Talk about killing bottom end torque, which is what you need for towing, off-roading and such. BTW 3" dia can support up to ~800HP, so a total waste of time and money for a jeep. Not looking for a pissing match, just trying to help those with limited experience and funds to not waste their money and time. My 35+ years in the automotive performance industry should be worth something.

CorporeSano · **Joined:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:36 pm **Posts:** 75

Anyone done any work on the exhaust? I'm interested in removing possibly some weight by removal of a resonator and finding a lighter muffler.

CrazyKK what lift are you using with the front clevis?

EDIT: The K&N Intake kit just came off & is getting returned. I am going to go for a 3" to 3" intake tube alongside the stock Air-Box or possibly this for the nitro 77060080... Anyone else on here do anything similar? I'm looking for something I can use the Oxygen Sensor in...

KrazyKK · **Joined:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:19 pm **Posts:** 87

Just a half inch JBA strut spacer. ~$15 + shipping. I was real surprised how much it actually gave me though... easily 1" and maybe a little more. I wish I measured before hand but alas I did not. The difference is very noticeable though. I do have to keep an eye on the clevis bolt though. 1/2" is like the extreme amount of spacing to use there :shock:

What have you done to your KK lately

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