Perforated Block??

amslube · **Posted:** Sat Mar 14, 2015 2:06 pm

Almost looks like ATF. Is it oily? ATF has a smell to it. I hope an epidemic isn't starting!!!

Anyway, I sold the Liberty CRD today with full disclosure as to it's cracked block and the extent of the crack. New owner opted to drive it home, about 40 miles. I think it will be fine. As I was describing the problem, I found myself almost trying to discourage him from taking it...I think many of you can understand this.

Thanks to all who followed this thread and those who made suggestions and condolences. It was actually not a bad 8 years of ownership overall. Just the ending was not the way I had ever expected.

One chapter closes...another opens...Wife drive home a new 2015 Jeep Cherokee Latitude, 3.2L V6, 4WD. The way this rides and drives I think the Liberty is already fading in her mind. But it will be in mine for some time to come.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sat Mar 14, 2015 2:08 pm

It didnt have any smell either from what I could tell, that was the first thing i did when i saw it. It felt a little oily, but I think it may have been because it picked up some crap on its way down.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Mar 14, 2015 2:14 pm

amslube wrote:

Almost looks like ATF. Is it oily? ATF has a smell to it. I hope an epidemic isn't starting!!!

Anyway, I sold the Liberty CRD today with full disclosure as to it's cracked block and the extent of the crack. New owner opted to drive it home, about 40 miles. I think it will be fine. As I was describing the problem, I found myself almost trying to discourage him from taking it...I think many of you can understand this.

Thanks to all who followed this thread and those who made suggestions and condolences. It was actually not a bad 8 years of ownership overall. Just the ending was not the way I had ever expected.

One chapter closes...another opens...Wife drive home a new 2015 Jeep Cherokee Latitude, 3.2L V6, 4WD. The way this rides and drives I think the Liberty is already fading in her mind. But it will be in mine for some time to come.

Darn, I was looking forward to zapping that block with my Miller welder, but I kind of figured at that price it wold be gone in an instant for any purpose, even parts.

Good luck with the new Jeep, is it a diesel as well?

flman · **Posted:** Sat Mar 14, 2015 2:17 pm

mass-hole wrote:

It didnt have any smell either from what I could tell, that was the first thing i did when i saw it. It felt a little oily, but I think it may have been because it picked up some crap on its way down.

Taste it, smell it, antifreeze is sweet, trans fluid smells like Pineapple, I kind of like the smell. :mrgreen:

And lets not all get paranoid at once that the blocks are going to crack either.

diesellady · **Joined:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:06 pm **Posts:** 15

Bevis74 wrote:

I have an 06 block I might part with( my luck though I'll get rid of it and develop porous block syndrome )anyway hope jb holds! It's great stuff, keep us posted

Hi Bevis74. I would like to buy that block from you if we could make arrangements. And possibly find out how much shipping to 93551 would cost. Now that amslube sold his could I please have dibs on the block???? PLEASE!!!
PM me for more info and prices please. ")

diesellady · **Joined:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:06 pm **Posts:** 15

flman, If you want to try and zap a block I have one you can give a jolt to. Hopefully Bevis74 will let me buy his block so I can get this little girl back on the road again. ")

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Mar 15, 2015 12:08 am

mass-hole wrote:

So I just found this between the engine and transmission . . . .

I was under my jeep looking at the bushings so I could replace them while doing my lift if need be. I believe it may be coolant since its a clear red color and doesnt smell. I would assume the transmission fluid wouldnt be so clean after 30000 miles. I couldnt follow it up too far since I just drove the jeep and believe it probably evaporated due to the heat of the engine. Any ideas?

That looks like atf to me too... Antifreeze I don't think would have that texture. My atf looks like new after about 40k on it. If you don't overheat the transmission it won't change color. I'd just ignore it, clean the area and observe it for few days.

olypopper · **Posted:** Sun Mar 15, 2015 2:17 am

Thermorex, if you are running atf+4, it will darken as it ages even if it's not overheated. Between degradation of the die that's used in it and friction materials, darkening will occur. Mopar issued a TSB about darkening a few years back.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 8:39 am

olypopper wrote:

Thermorex, if you are running atf+4, it will darken as it ages even if it's not overheated. Between degradation of the die that's used in it and friction materials, darkening will occur. Mopar issued a TSB about darkening a few years back.

I believe you, I just haven't noticed it... I'll definitely take a look since you made me curious

.

amslube · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 9:47 pm

No diesel in the Cherokee. Diesel only available in the Grand Cherokee. With diesel fuel at almost $.90 a gallon more than gas just does not make economical sense anymore. Cherokee with 3.2L V-6 and 9-speed auto trans and 4WD EPA rated at 28 hwy and 20 city. My wife doing her nursing home rounds to visit her parents, about a 50 mile daily round trip, 2015 Cherokee yielding almost 24mpg, Liberty CRD was 25. Big savings in fuel costs with the gasser. Doing a long road trip Thursday and will see what the real highway MPG will be.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 17, 2015 11:04 am

amslube wrote:

No diesel in the Cherokee. Diesel only available in the Grand Cherokee. With diesel fuel at almost $.90 a gallon more than gas just does not make economical sense anymore. Cherokee with 3.2L V-6 and 9-speed auto trans and 4WD EPA rated at 28 hwy and 20 city. My wife doing her nursing home rounds to visit her parents, about a 50 mile daily round trip, 2015 Cherokee yielding almost 24mpg, Liberty CRD was 25. Big savings in fuel costs with the gasser. Doing a long road trip Thursday and will see what the real highway MPG will be.

I was seriously thinking to get a trailhawk but my wife smacked me and got a Passat... The reviews are pretty good for the new Cherokee trailhawk, a mall jeep with some off-road capabilities, exactly what I need as a daily driver. There are some transmission issues but it seems they are more computer programming related.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 17, 2015 11:08 am

amslube wrote:

No diesel in the Cherokee. Diesel only available in the Grand Cherokee. With diesel fuel at almost $.90 a gallon more than gas just does not make economical sense anymore. Cherokee with 3.2L V-6 and 9-speed auto trans and 4WD EPA rated at 28 hwy and 20 city. My wife doing her nursing home rounds to visit her parents, about a 50 mile daily round trip, 2015 Cherokee yielding almost 24mpg, Liberty CRD was 25. Big savings in fuel costs with the gasser. Doing a long road trip Thursday and will see what the real highway MPG will be.

I must agree, the diesel advantage is gone thanks to DPF, EGR, DEF. I would be hesitant to buy a diesel as well if I were looking for a newer vehicle. I guess the only thing missing is the torque?

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 17, 2015 11:34 am

flman wrote:

amslube wrote:

No diesel in the Cherokee. Diesel only available in the Grand Cherokee. With diesel fuel at almost $.90 a gallon more than gas just does not make economical sense anymore. Cherokee with 3.2L V-6 and 9-speed auto trans and 4WD EPA rated at 28 hwy and 20 city. My wife doing her nursing home rounds to visit her parents, about a 50 mile daily round trip, 2015 Cherokee yielding almost 24mpg, Liberty CRD was 25. Big savings in fuel costs with the gasser. Doing a long road trip Thursday and will see what the real highway MPG will be.

I must agree, the diesel advantage is gone thanks to DPF, EGR, DEF. I would be hesitant to buy a diesel as well if I were looking for a newer vehicle. I guess the only thing missing is the torque?

I agree, unless you need a truck to tow stuff, a "normal" car does not justify getting a diesel variant. There is about 5k difference between a 1.8 gas turbo Jetta and the 2.0 tdi. 36mpg highway with gasser and 40-45 mpg with the tdi. You need a heck of miles to break even, even with gas prices back where they were before dropping. The only "smarter" purchase may be an electric vehicle.

PaulyG · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2016 11:03 pm **Posts:** 5

Resurrecting this post, not sure if I should start a new one? I have the same problem, cracked block passenger on the top of the engine block on the side back. Exact same as AMSlube's picture.

Jeep is 2006 LIberty CRD. Started leaking in Jan 2015. Tried K-seal, didn't work. Ground pepper worked for a while, was dry for a few weeks, then started leaking again. Ran it with the rad cap off, in the end just straight water, was going through a lot, low coolant would come on after about 40 min of driving. 150k km on it. Just took the motor out, what a ##### pain! Can't imagine doing it in one day! Each electrical connector is a puzzle and seems like they are glued together, in the most inaccessible spots! And those 2 top bell housing bolts, talk about inaccessible! I thought my TDI was tough- Ha it has nothing on the CRD. Maybe its just the Canadian winters with salt and sand gluing everything together! Anyway, enough ranting!

I tried a plastic epoxy on it in Feb 2015, once I removed the turbo heat shield to find the leak. Sprayed brake clean on, then slopped some in the area with my fingers, did nothing to stop the leak. That area is very difficult to access the motor in the car, can only inspect it with a cell phone / mirror or by feel.

I have a theory that the adapter plate bolts at the back of the engine near the top are stressing the block and causing the crack on expansion and contraction (it looks like a poor design in that area), I will post a pic if I can. Makes sense with the location of the crack, which looks very similar to AMSlube's. I think I will back off on the torque for these 2 and loctite them.

Here is my dilemma, I do not want to have to remove and install this beast engine again! I'm leaning toward buying a used block/ engine but am worried about the risk having a repeat crack. How common is this problem?

I could try a repair. I can dye pen the crack and have access to good welder(s), get them to braze or cast iron weld the crack after I prep it and drill out the ends. I just don't know how will work, it is a really bad spot and looks to me like it will just recrack in the heat affected zone, especially if the epoxy does not work. Anyone had success with weld repairing this case?

Also, are there any blocks which are more susceptible? My casting marks are: 2157F, VL, 12, 2005, 162, and NS, all on the passenger side.

Thanks

PaulyG · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2016 11:03 pm **Posts:** 5

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2016 1:43 pm

Weld repairing on cast iron blocks is a common repair but it must be done by someone who really knows what they are doing!!! Crack will have to be ground out and drilled on both ends and then block has to be heated in area before applying cast iron welding rod. Don't use brazing or any other dissimilar metal repair as any other type of metal will have different expansion rates and will eventually crack again next to the weld... Again, you really need to talk to an expert welder who is very experienced in this type of repair. :roll:

I would not be afraid of a welded block if the repair is done correctly! Otherwise, changing motors may be your best option?

There are a few spare engines around, I have seen some posted on this forum. Contact geordi or mountainman, I believe both of these guys may have some spare blocks if memory serves me correctly? :wink:

This guy is selling a totalled 06 wit a good motor, you may want to contact him: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=85214

PaulyG · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2016 11:03 pm **Posts:** 5

Thanks for the response.

I am looking for a replacement block, or engine. It sounds like this crack/ failure is not that common.

I'm a little nervous about a weld repair. Because of the location, I probably would take a while to prep it, check it and possibly need to finish machine or clearance for the bell housing adapter afterwards. Sounds like pre-heating is better than a "cold" weld repair method, which would probably require stripping the block bare. Its a long way in and out to repair the crack then. If I can find a short block or a long block, would cost more but save a lot of work, and hopefully be good as new again. The existing engine is due for a timing belt, and I still need to sort out the EGR code which remained after replacing the EGR valve.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 08, 2016 8:22 pm

What's your location paulyg?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 08, 2016 9:31 pm

PaulyG wrote:

and I still need to sort out the EGR code which remained after replacing the EGR valve.

Gosh you actually replaced an EGR valve??? Most people simply block them off or totally remove the entire EGR system by installing a Weeks elbow kit.... :roll:

EGR is VERY BAD :grim:

for your engine, you really need to get rid of it on your rebuild!

PaulyG · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2016 11:03 pm **Posts:** 5

My location is Trail BC (Canada).

I thought EGR would help the diesel warm up quicker in the winter during cold starts. Also feel better about a cleaner exhaust. Its an odd problem though, with MAF plugged in, will stall or buck/ hesitate just off idle, then EGR light comes on. Did same before and after EGR was replaced, runs fine with MAF unplugged, but the CEL is always on. I should try blocking it off.

Perforated Block??

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