I had the Jeep at the dealership the other day to see if they could find my fuel air leak - they could not.

I don't think they would have had a reason to re-flash the ECM.

Is there a quick and easy way to confirm that the ECO-Tune is still alive and well (Shift at RPM or something like that)?

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2005 CRD Limited, Black 205k Miles (Timing Belt Changed at 100k and 200k), GDE Eco-Tune, Carter in-tank lift pump
2005 CRD Sport, Black - Ingested Valve at 170k miles R.I.P.

Gde tubes "signature" is right at start up it will rev to 1000rpm and then settle back down.

Better question, what are you doing at a dealer? They will end up recommending a whole new engine.

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Is the Jeep slow, or really slow? If its just slow than you probably still have your tune.

As mentioned above, i think the RPM jump when you start it is the only way you can tell for sure other than just seat of the pants feel.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Some dealers good vs. some dealers bad. I have a blocking plate on my computer port under the steering column and add a prohibition on accessing the computer system to my work order unless they get written permission mainly in case some "helpful" tech decides to see if my computer system is up to date. They may grip but if you are there for "mechanical" service only there is no need to access computer.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs