this fixed my jeep also. started suddenly vibrating under 25mph. I also want to add that before all this was happening I was getting a sudder/vibration just before torque converter lock up at 52mph, so from 45-51mph I was getting a shutter that would get stronger until tc locked up and the other symptom was truck running over ruts from 25mph to stopping.
Upon inspection universal joint looked fine, but when you remove joint from rear axle and try to move the joint it gives resistance and this is why it shutters going down the road. basically the grease dries up. who knows why. I just wanted to add this to help others trouble shoot thiers. I replaced both joints $20 each 1.5 hours worth of work(having right tools ofcourse)

How difficult are the u-joints to replace, with that goofy iron flywheel attached to the shaft?

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

it was awkward, I used a mini press from harbor freight (#1666) A frame press and some iron bar for load support for pressing. another thing I want to point out is the transmission fluid doesn't run out when shaft is removed...sealed unit. Just make sure you put some lube inside like wheel bearing grease.
I used:
A frame press #1666
2lb hammer
flat punch
needle nose pliers
large regular pliers (to pull caps out after pressing)
wheel bearing grease.
Moog universal joints #280
15mm cv socket for driver shaft removal
dead blow hammer ( to break shaft loose)

I think the hardest part is to get your mind into it. tedious but easy.

That iron flywheel is part of the shaft that comes out from the rubber boot from transfer case, not a problem at all. All you need is to take out the Diff bolts that secure the axle on the rear diff, the axle slides down from the Diff side and then pulling the axle from the transfer case. In case the axle is stuck on the diff side, use some penetrating oil. To remove the ujoints, the best tool is a ball joint c clamp press, and an impact gun.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I presume that shaft is balanced so while it might not make a huge difference I'd mark things so it goes back together and gets installed in the same position(s) as when you took it out.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Good thing to do, most service manuals advise to do this, although I usually forget

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

I forgot to mark mine, and I didn't feel any vibration. Crd's shaft is short, so it shouldn't be a problem. But obviously it's good to to that.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I had a second failure a few weeks ago. Exact same shudder during low speed deceleration so this time I knew exactly what was wrong. No warranty any more so I ordered the parts and in the meantime sprayed the joint with some penetrating oil to hopefully assist removal. After a couple of days and a couple of good sprayings the shudder disappeared completely . It ran fine for about a fortnight and then started shuddering occasionally at high speed . By now the new joints had arrived. One of the arms on the old joint was completely dry with powder where the needles used to be.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

Drive-shafts are indexed and balanced so they have the mass rotational forces counteract each other to some degree:
Advice from an experienced mechanic; take the time to do what Papaindigo suggested, it is very good advice and may save you a vibration problem in the future and make your U-joints last longer!!!!

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Just replaced my 245700 KM factory u joints with DANA SPICER HD sealed. Throwing the shaft back on and hopefully this solves the noise .

Sent from my HTC Desire 510 using Tapatalk

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Got Sheep?

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead

Old thread but did this fix the problem?

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2006 CRD Jeep Liberty / Cherokee - Weeks Stage 1 & 2, GDE Eco Tune, Carter In-Tank Fuel Pump & Provent 200.