Hi All,

I'm having a starting issue that seems to have suddenly appeared on my 2.5 CRD 2004 Liberty (or Cherokee as it is here in the UK!).

All seems normal as I turn the key, wait for the glow plug lights to go out... twist the key forward to start.... and nothing!

I've been reading up about the clutch interlock systems so I've been investigating that. Also had the RAC Recovery dude out and he tested everything - battery is OK (need a new one soonish), starter OK, ignition tested OK. However, he took the starter relay out of the block and, with the ignition on, momentarily bridged the live connections with a spaded wire and... BINGO!!

I've removed this starter relay and replaced with one of the others (they're all the same TYCO 4671168E relays) and also done the same with the Clutch Interlock/EATX relay. It still won't start on the key.

I've located the connector for the clutch switch under the master cylinder in the engine bay, disconnected this and bridged the connectors to close the circuit. Still nothing. I've even read about some people placing a fuse in the fuse box to close the circuit for the clutch switch, but there aren't connectors in the fuse box for the EATX position (maybe an European model peculiarity?).

I'm wondering now whether there is potentially an ignition or immobilizer problem?

Any assistance, similar experiences, bright ideas or small miracles would be very much appreciated.

Thanks Guys!!

James T (Kent, UK)

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2004 Liberty KJ (Cherokee) 2.5 CRD Limited

Kent, Southeast UK

It could be the ignition switch. The switch is connected to the key barrel by a plastic rod that are prone to breaking. Its a bit of a sod to get at because our UK models have a anti theft clamp around the barrel and you have to drill out the bolts to remove it. Normally the immobiliser allows the engine to crank and run for a few seconds.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

Thanks mate. Just tried to get the column cover off but don't seem to have an allen key/hex wrench that fits..! (think it needs 3.5mm).
I'll get myself sorted and whip the cover off. I haven't seen what the ignition switch looks like yet - I'll look into that.

I've bridged the clutch switch and I'm satisfied that it's not the problem. I've flattened the battery now though so I'll have to wait till that's charged before I can try anything again.

Thanks again!

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2004 Liberty KJ (Cherokee) 2.5 CRD Limited

Kent, Southeast UK

Update on the problem - it's now fixed!! Thanks for the guidance

Turns out it was indeed an ignition problem: It was the ignition switch actuator pin assembly, as mentioned above.
The plastic rod that runs through the middle was OK (it seems this only moves to engage a switch when the key is inserted into the ignition barrel). However, the metal assembly that houses it was broken at the end, which stops the key turning the ignition switch on in its last stage to turn the engine over.

I got a replacement for the princely sum of £55 from a local Jeep dealer, but it's done the trick and I can now start the beast! They had a few in stock too, so it suggests it's a common part for replacement.

It's not an easy fix though, as also mentioned above, as the welded-in anti-theft ignition assembly took an age to drill out and removed. I've not refitted it for now (too much hassle), so the SKIS immobilizer unit is wobbling about a bit, but it's working fine.

Got a new battery to boot (Bosch hi-torque) and we're back on the road!!

Once again this forum has been invaluable in helping fix the KJ, so I'm very grateful for assistance

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2004 Liberty KJ (Cherokee) 2.5 CRD Limited

Kent, Southeast UK

Good to know you got it sorted, The metal end on mine had also broken enough to stop it from going to the engine cranking position.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4