Notes from Cylinder Head R&R

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 10, 2017 3:36 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

YEEEEE-HAAA!
Test-running like a champion!
I also now believe that five months ago I may have misdiagnosed my previous running issue; my old injectors may have been okay and it may have just been fuel-starved. Not 100% sure, but my previous tank-top fuel-line 180-turn setup may have been crimping with the tank snug. I'm installing hard fittings instead to insure flow. Still very PO'd that my near-new Kennedy seems to be toast.

That is Good News!!!!
That also is why some of us on this forum recommend the in-tank lift pumps like the OEM Carter pump as they seem to be more reliable with less issues!
I know they can also fail, but since I have been on this forum I have yet to read of a CRD retrofit in-tank pump failure...

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 10, 2017 5:40 pm

Tell me about it. My windy posts on the Kennedy install thread are suddenly very deflated! I may contact the supplier and whine; less than 3k and out? Seriously?
UPDATE: Kennedy is fine, but it's not self-priming, #@$& !. PO'd that I chose it. DON'T install a non-priming lift-pump!

I'm so use to (F250/350, etc) pita tank-drops that I bias towards external pumps, but in reality these KJ tanks are very accessible compared to most. I'm not certain that's a good thing in terms of impact safety, but you can't complain about working on and around them.

Time to sew this back up. After four months it's going to be amusing puzzling all of the hoses/lines back in, but it'll probably be common sense. I took tons of pics during disassembly and then my previous cell promptly died before I backed them up.

Here's the on-tank fitting/installed to remedy any constriction/crimping that may have been occurring with the fuel-line "U" it replaced; if you look at the formed-contours on the top of the tank, those mate snugly into the frame gussets above, so I suspect that the previous looping fuel-line may have been getting squeezed:

Now, the replacement fitting & line are essentially retracing the OEM fuel-line routing. I used layered patches of gorilla tape to protect the tank from chafing where one of the brass 90's rubs a bit.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 12, 2017 8:31 pm

Would someone be kind enough to glance at these pics and tell me if I've got all the 5/8" coolant hoses correctly routed?
I'm hoping to get confirmation before proceeding with coolant refill. THANKS!

In my defense, it's been about 5 months since the tear-down and all the detailed pics I shot during disassembly died with my prior cell phone.

Obviously, I performed the Sasq. I&II so the egr run has been removed and coupled.
Thanks!

ABOVE:

SIDE:

BELOW-ish:

-Although I obtained the pulley for the VH delete, I want to drive her for awhile post-op before more mods.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 12, 2017 9:32 pm

Looks good except for one thing...

The AC line is in the wrong place

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 12, 2017 10:31 pm

Many, many thanks. Flash. Hose-memory kinda' ran the show, but being my first CRD I greatly appreciate the confirmation.

Yeah, I tweaked the AC condensor during tear-down. Obviously not an urgent replacement (at least in the northern hemisphere).
Ruminating on separate HD Trans cooler and ACcondnsr.

BTW- I'm using Allison-rated ATF and CAT diesel NOAT coolant. I figure if the big boys drink that stuff it's probably tasty to the "little-chugger-that-could". It may be my imagination, but for the 2k before major surgery the Trans seemed noticeably happier after the flush, filter and swap to Allison juice:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 12:40 pm

I lost an injector's return-rail retainer-clip.
Helpful post from Gordnado (Thanks!):

"The return clips are absurdly expensive from Mopar.

GM Duramax is the same and costs much less:

http://sinisterdiesel.com/i-16504673-di ... -6-6l.html

Full set (1 side of Duramax) is a complete replacement, with clips and hose and O-rings, for about the same or less than a single clip from Mopar." [$30 shipped]

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 1:11 pm

joe_ · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 1:49 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

Robot-chicken advises that you can press the tbelt on without removing any components. However, I wasted 20 minutes wrestling with the tbelt before finally deciding to remove the crank locking-pin as well as the timing tensioner-bolt thereby making it quite easy to properly thread the tbelt. After again confirming that the crank and injection pump were correctly aligned, it was not difficult to use a small pry-bar to gently leverage the tensioner until it's bolt could be easily reinstalled without cross-threading or excessive resistance.

I too found it helpful to leave the tensioner out, and then install it after the belt is more or less in place.

Gypsy62 wrote:

Cheap circlip tool for leveraging the timing tensioner

In case you don't have a circlip tool laying around, flman posted a link in another thread to a PDF (timing-belt-installation-rev3-pdf-716k.pdf). On page 7 it shows another cheap way to do it using a couple of allen wrenches.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 15, 2017 12:36 am

A couple more tips that may aid others to clear similar hurdles.
In the hope of completely eliminating the elevated coolant temps I was enduring during the Vegas summer, I had:
- Installed 11-blade fan & Hayden clutch
- Flushed and filled with CAT-spec NOAT coolant
Those measures only gave nominal improvement.
However, during this major surgery I have installed:
- New H2O pump
- Thermo
The only remaining suspect component was the lower radiator hose (radiator looks exc.), more specifically the turn at one end lacked an internal spring to resist collapse during coolant pressure variation.
Both rad hoses look otherwise fine; I have no idea if the OEM lower hose normally lacks a spring at one end, but I'm not interested in leaving it to chance. So:

OEM lower rad hose-end with spring;

Same hose, other end, no internal spring to my thumb:

New $5 shorty rad hose, unknown vehicle application, with corresponding segment of internal spring rotated-out:

Spring-segment clipped and transplanted into CRD-hose:

Maybe others have done this before, me no; I'm grateful to the Ensenada Azone staff for advising this solution.
I remain curious if that "empty" segment is CRD factory spec.
Now, this beast better #@%& maintain normal operating temps!

Another issue was that the left-side's JBA UCA bushings had been damaged during removal-from-hell (6-frozen lca/uca bolts, 24 hours labor). I never got a respone to my pertinent email inquiry from JBA, but now maybe I know why: they do, in fact, accept the OEM UCA bushings, Part #BCK96036 (@ azone).
Also, the JBA-compatible replacement upper ball-joint is spec for a '96 GMC 1500 Van, Part #B6292. This is clearly sub spicer-grade ($60 @ JBA) but for $16 seems adequate:

A local suspension shop's hydraulic press failed to coax-out the old JBA bushings, so it took the boss 2.5 hours to torch the old ones out. He'd quoted me $5 to R&R the JBA's bushings, but clearly he did not grasp what a pita these rusty #@&% bolts would be to remove. I gave him $10; he was both grateful and gracious.

Also, the JBA factory red paint was beat-up so I wheeled it clean and painted it silver. That's probably sacrilege... oh well.
Pic with new ball-joint/bushings:

With the left-front 1/2 shaft out I decided to replace it's diff-output seal ($10). Unsure if the opposing right-side seal is identical (located at the end of the right-front's elongated axle-tube).
FRONT-LEFT DIFF OUTPUT SEAL DIMENSIONS: 58x35x11mm; 35mm is the approximate ID of the seal's rubber and may be spec'd larger by suppliers. The seal is a whopping 11mm wide because it has a flange that pancakes onto the outside of the diff:

(Incorrect, oversized seal sent TWICE by Amazon supplier even after online-chat with sales #@%&! )

I couldn't forfeit more time to source the OEM flanged seal, so settled for an adequate double-lipped substitute, Dichtomatik #2309. No flange, but excellent fit:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 20, 2017 2:48 am

Question:
I replaced the cracked Trans cooler, allowing for the first "full-cycle" test-run to op-temp. Although it's been awhile since I listened to her croon, I think she's singing the right song. Stable idle, no stutter, smooth.
HOWEVER, after about a 1/2hour of idling (while I messed with the front-clip install), I hopped in and checked different throttle thresholds (stationary, in park). It behaved well in 500rpm increments BUT it's acting like it's "governed" and won't rev above 3400rpms at all. I am hoping in the extreme that it's just in "limp" mode while the ECU recalibrates. What's the deal???

A few more issues addressed.
Although the AC condensor portion was damaged, I was hoping to salvage the trans-cooler lower portion of the OEM combo unit (ala sawzall):

Wishful thinking. It was toast. Replaced with a $45 (azone, part #911678) universal Trans cooler:

In another post someone mentioned easing installation of an aftermarket cooler by removing the stock Trans hose-ends. However, they neglected to explain or illustrate how those OEM hose-ends are removed; they are retained by C-clips:

With the clips removed one end popped-off easily, the other side was sticky. Temporarily routing it under the frame cross-member for leverage, I used a crowbar to gently, yet effectively, pry-off the end without damaging the line:

Leaving nice extruded flanges for securing the rubber hoses to & from the replacement cooler:

Notable that I removed the CAC while doing this. When I saw how expensive those are to replace ($650), I elected to err on the side of "nowhere-near-the-crowbar", reinstalling it after.

I temporarily mounted the Trans cooler to the hood-latch post using mongo zip-ties. When I also install the replacement AC condensor I'll fab a more dutiful combo bracket:

At that time, I may also source a front-mounted electric dual-fan to mount on them.

I also finally wrapped-up my front-end battle. The 2.5" OME lift stretches the stock brake-line geometry to the hilt, but appears workable. While both sides received new UCA ball-joints, calipers and pads, the right side received no 'makeover' for its' components (left also got fresh UCA bushings). Anytime you purchase new metal parts it's a great time to paint the virgin steel with a protective coat; no surface-prep required other than a perfunctory removal of any factory residues. It may not last forever but it won't hurt.
Added benefit: it provides the consolation of a lovely final image to roadkill:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 20, 2017 4:39 pm

Throttle-response 'governor' solution courtesy of JWS84_02:

"Might be the inlet air pressure sensor. Check to make sure the small plug on the side of the airbox is plugged in"

Yup. He d'Man.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2017 6:52 pm

Throttle behaving excellent in P/N, but when in gear it is still completely gutless. Runs smooth, shifts Smooth, very, but no spunk. Almost like I'm getting no turbo, although it was zippin' like a champion pre-op.

Thoughts?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2017 9:39 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

Throttle behaving excellent in P/N, but when in gear it is still completely gutless. Runs smooth, shifts Smooth, very, but no spunk. Almost like I'm getting no turbo, although it was zippin' like a champion pre-op.

Thoughts?

Check for codes.
Could be a boost problem.
Could be some other sensor not plugged in.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 12:17 am

DTC's:
0001- fuel volume regulator control circuit open;
0073- ambient air temp sensor circuit high;
0101- MAF A circuit range/performance;
0299- turbo underboost;
0403- EGR;
1140- FCV (Flow Control Valve).

I'm gonna' do a thorough inspection; pull/observe/reconnect connectors and hoses for systems integrity analysis (partial-connects, grounds, bent pins, obstructions, etc).

Even sans turb-boost, it's great to be chugging again. I'm curious if this forced feather-foot driving mode translates into significant mpg gains... :ROTFL:

Separately, I'm not sure which circuit to tap for the pair of stock grill-mounted mini-dome lights, now relocated to the ARB front bumper. I forget which OEM switch normally lights those mini-domes: running-light circuit? Headlights-on or hi-beam circuit?
The ARB also has a pair of switched PIAA lights; best to mate the mini-domes to their OHV switch?

Thanks

UPDATE:
I diagnosed my turbo issue:

DOH!!!
During R&R, to prevent critters squatting inside my hoses I had inserted lint-frees into them. Forgot this one in the CAC intake hose. Kinda' surprised it ran at all, but some air could get by...

Related, I badly wanted to de-grease the intake hoses that had been fouled pre-Sasq. and "EHM" (if my CCV-mod even qualifies). I soaked a towel with The Mighty DAWN and repeatedly snaked it through until they all shimmered:

I had intended to buy Samcos Pronto, but the CAC-Engine hose is clearly the later OEM silicone-lined and in very good shape. Hence, I'd prefer to replace only the turb-CAC hose. Is there anybody who sells these intake hoses separately?
Not that I saw.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 3:36 pm

I'm also tossing around pulling the rear drive-shaft and experimenting with front-wheel-drive-only. Although that would seem to defeat the whole point of having ARB's front/rear, I share the common belief that fwd is far superior vs rwd for general 2wd traction. Now add air-locked fwd for off-pavement...
I do a lot of beach-cruising so maybe the 4wd is wise insurance, but it is tempting if only to measure mpg improvement. If fwd-only yielded significantly better economy, maybe pull the rear shaft for (boring) road-trips.
I've done it with 4wd f350's with excellent mpg improvement, but not sure what to expect with a Libby. Maybe the fwd-portion of the driveline has less 'stamina' than the rwd: constant-use and fullly-loaded concerns regarding Tcase/dshaft/diff toughness, geometry of half-shafts?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 4:05 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

I'm also tossing around pulling the rear drive-shaft and experimenting with front-wheel-drive-only. Although that would seem to defeat the whole point of having ARB's front/rear, I share the common belief that fwd is far superior vs rwd for general 2wd traction. Now add air-locked fwd for off-pavement...
I do a lot of beach-cruising so maybe the 4wd is wise insurance, but it is tempting if only to measure mpg improvement. If fwd-only yielded significantly better economy, maybe pull the rear axle for (boring) road-trips.
I've done it with 4wd f350's with excellent mpg improvement, but not sure what to expect with a Libby. Maybe the fwd-portion of the driveline has less 'stamina' than the rwd: constant-use and fullly-loaded concerns regarding Tcase/dshaft/diff toughness, geometry of half-shafts?

The front aluminum dif is pretty wimpy. It might hold up to light full time use, but put any serious force on it alone without the rear diff taking about half the load and it would explode. The CV's can handle it. There's the JBA steel front diff for a small fortune $1500. All for maybe 1-2 mpg's, not worth it

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2017 9:17 pm

Thanks for the front diff heads-up. 4wd it shall remain.

This is my DIY solution to the CCV issue; anybody see any intrinsic problems?:

Using parts already laying around, my thinking was this:
- Goofy mini-K&N filter is pointing up from the first T, located at the apex of the hose-run. This provides a close-proximity vent for air-pressure release, while using gravity to "encourage" oil-residue to continue down-tube
- Another T is located just before the screw-top catch cannister, providing a tap for another vent (looped-hose zipped to the main hose, pointing upward). The airflow volume of the two smaller-diameter (2x1/4"?) vents combined more closely match the stock vent-hose diameter (5/8"?). Also, the second-vent may serve as a venturi to help draw oil downward towards the...
- Screw-top catch canister for accumulating oil. A convenient vessel for emptying, as necessary. I'm still analyzing where exactly to route & secure the thing:
A. Route it to the outside of the turb, then down and ahead of the exhaust down-pipe, using mongo zips to kiss the tubing to the motor-mount while the canister sits atop the frame rail directly beneath, easily accessible for R&R.
B. Route it forward into the ARB front-bumper cavity. All kinds 'o room in there.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2017 10:05 pm

(Posted this stuff in "ARB compressor mounting location" thread, but may as well further bloat this saga, too.)

I also completed the ARB front/rear axle & pump/switches swap from my '05 gasser (sold) to my '05 CRD (I will be cold-and-dead but it will still be idling in the driveway, itching for adventure...).

I 'faked-in' the grill & headlights to establish installation clearance. Here's the pump mounting location I finally settled on. It's acceptable, but I wished I'd set it about 1/2" further back 'cuz there's only 1/2" of space behind the headlight. To ease access, remove the two bolts securing the PS cooling-line and move it out of the way during pump install:

Note how it was necessary to use the 'ole beijing vibro-tool to hum a small (ugly) notch in the bottom of the battery tray:

The mounting-location of the switches was chosen by the PO of the donor-Gasser. At first I thought it would be a knee-banger but in actuality not a problem. Imo, a plus is that the constant-on f/r "ready" lights are not another nighttime dash-distraction:

The trim-panel hinges downward, secured by two upper clips. I just swapped the trims between gasser and CRD; getting those plasti-formed hinges to snap-out was NOT easy (wonder-bar duty), but at least they aren't brittle plastic:

ZOOM-IN and you can observe which wire/circuit the ARB taps into; it's a big-boy, pink w/ yellow-stripe if I recall. Although there's a couple fatties in that loom, "The One" is the most accessible of them:

Naturally, the install wasn't dull. The front-diff's airline had an intermediate flange-bracket that was knocking against the serpentine. While removing that bracket I busted the OEM fitting -@%&$# !!!- Sourced a hose-barb with the correct fitting. Hopefully, double-clamped it will easily handle the air-pressure:

During the bout to repair the ARB line, I discovered that it was possible to leave the radiator connected (avoiding coolant R&R) and lift it forward enough to provide decent access to the area around the fan and the lower-left side of the engine:

Obviously, this is with the CAC safely removed.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2017 10:14 pm

You are going to hate this... You can remove the trim panel in 3 seconds without messing with the hinges. Rotate it downward as you have in the picture... Then slide the door to the left and it will drop right off the hinges.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2017 10:53 pm

Maybe so, but that's no fun ! :ROTFL:

Why own demolition tools if you can't use them?

Thanks. I guess you mean that inch of space to the left of the hinge will allow it to easily pop-out. Great. Learning curve strikes again.
Any other similar gems you care to share?
:wink:

Notes from Cylinder Head R&R

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