KJ Cherokee running rough.

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

Cheers, I've called most of them already, most were uninterested in ordering anything for me. I'm about to order through id parts. Including express freight it will cost me $602 AUD.

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geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jan 16, 2017 1:19 am

JasonKJ wrote:

Cheers, I've called most of them already, most were uninterested in ordering anything for me. I'm about to order through id parts. Including express freight it will cost me $602 AUD.

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Ouchie. I think it may be the express shipping that hurts, but the exchange rate seems complete pants right now. $494 AUD for the sets that we can get for $370. That sucks!

Sorry nobody locally wants to order / stock them.

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

I'm expecting delivery on Friday, by 5pm.
ordered the injector seals and O rings from them too.
So hopefully everything will be back together this weekend.
I'll post a video of it running

I appreciate the help, and hopefully I can remember where everything goes.

I have a question about Oil.

I'll be putting Penrite full synthetic 5w40 in it for this first run. (already bought it) ($59 6L)

Mobil 1 was $99 for 5L apparently we need 6L, making it $120 for my oil. which seems crazy to me, I'm used to paying about $20 for oil in my kia.

Does anybody run any other brands of oil? or is the Mobil 1 the only one to use?

undrgnd · **Joined:** Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:47 am **Posts:** 194

In NZ I use penrite hpr diesel 10w40. It has all the right approval codes. Its only semi synthetic but it's all we can get here. Its not compatible with DPFs though. With the penrite full synthetic it doesn't have the diesel ratings (on sn cf I think) just the acea a3/b3 rating. Its like the other fully synthetic one like edge and etc. I personally chose the diesel version for the detergents etc. I change mine every 10,000 kms

Most use shell rotella t6 on here which u can buy in Aus via ebay so go with that if you can. Unfortunately I can't get that here

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2017 11:16 pm

Ask 5 people their opinions on oil, you will get 7 answers.

As far as I would suggest - if it has the right ratings and is diesel rated... Run it. Full synth is preferable, and I would think it offers better longevity too. But the biggest thing is the oil change interval. I wouldn't run the oil longer than 5,000 miles between changes.

ovoskeuiks · **Joined:** Sat Aug 27, 2011 8:12 pm **Posts:** 4

+1 for Penrite can't remember if I used the exact one that undrgnd specified but never had any problems with oil

I also used ID Part to ship some parts to NZ and had no problems

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

So I've had some wins today, and some fails..
I've got all the studs in now, all torqued properly, cleaned up the top of the head, injector seats, and rocker cover, all ready for reassembly, but for the life of me i can not get the cover back on without knocking rockers - and trust me, i said all the right words!
Is there an easy way to line it up and drop it on?

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jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2017 8:56 am

I always remove the cam lock pins and rotate each cam so the lobes aren't pointing toward the rockers. Then I use 2 valve cover bolts that I cut the heads off of for alignment pins. I usually still manage to knock 1 or 2 off. I then just pull the front up by the oil fill tube and I can squeeze one hand in and set them back on the valve

joe_ · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2017 12:27 am

I suggest keeping the front end tilted up slightly and first concentrating on getting the back end in place. It's a little tight, not a whole lot of room to maneuver it under the cowl without knocking the rear rockers off. Once you get it in place, lift the front up and peek under there with a flashlight to make sure the rockers are still sitting where they belong.

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

That did the trick, i just needed to attack it on a different day, with a little more patience. I had my brother hold cables out of the way as well which I'm sure helped. I didn't lift the cover up to check, for fear of knocking a rocker off, but when i put it down it didn't sound like any fell.
I'm taking this slow, trying not to make any mistakes along the way.

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JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

Got everything torqued up, new timing belt on, crank engine and fired straight up, (probably off oil and solvents that i cleaned the injector holes with) then stalled. No bad sounds, but i can't get it started again. I think it's a fueling issue, i tried to bleed the fuel rail. No go. Not sure what i should try tomorrow. Any advice?

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geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jan 30, 2017 12:47 pm

You can't really "bleed the fuel rail" as such, the computer is the only thing calling for (or draining) fuel from the rail and it takes a LOT of rotations of the fuel pump to fill the rail when I'm assembling the engines. You could turn it by hand (take the belt back off - I know, yuck) or just buckle in for using the starter with a battery charger connected. Turning it by hand with a drill is faster, but still takes a while.

If you use the starter and charger: No more than 5 seconds cranking and minimum 15 seconds resting at a time, to avoid overheating the starter.
It will be helpful to remove the glow plugs to lighten the load on the starter, and crack the #3 fuel rail nut - then have a helper crank the engine, and be ready to tighten the nut when fuel starts spraying from the loose nut. THEN you are ready to reassemble and restart.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Mon Jan 30, 2017 5:20 pm

Be leary of using a booster charger. I have heard they can mess things up by sending to many volts &/or amps.

I know for a fact they can mess things up on an old GM 6.5 diesel

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

Thanks, had the wife crank it while I pumped the primer on the fuel filter, then I copped a load of diesel in the face.. I had loosened the fitting on the back of the injector pump and not tightened it properly. I reseated that, then she fired right up.
Engine sounds perfect, no strange noises, smooth running.
Very happy customer, thanks guys.

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geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jan 30, 2017 5:36 pm

Always the simple stuff that gets you. I had one that ran rough after assembly, smooth above idle but sounded terrible at idle, like it was about to die.

Turns out I had forgotten to connect the fuel rail pressure sensor. Oops.

Glad to hear that it is running again!

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

Ok guys, appreciate the help so far, but it looks like I'm not quite out of the woods..

It runs smoothly, seems to have plenty of power, (I have nothing to compare it to) but it still blows a doo doo tonne of smoke. It blows less smoke with the maf disconnected. Not sure why.

The smoke is unburnt diesel - white and smells like smoke from when you put a candle out.

I'm worried that I may have either

- knocked a rocker off replacing the cover

- issues with piston rings

- bad injectors

I'm pretty confident I have good timing, that all went smoothly, and it's not my first timing belt on a car.

I have 2 fault codes too, you guys recommended that I replace glow plugs when I had it pulled down, I was cheap and figured my current ones would be fine.
I have a p1263 and p1265 which I believe are glow plug related?

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JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

What should I look at next? Where is a good place to start?
Is there a way to confirm that all the rockers are in place without removing the valve cover?

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geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 31, 2017 5:10 pm

1263 and 1265 are glow plugs 2 and 3 circuit low - sounds like they are unplugged or bad.

As far as verifying the rockers... You have to pull it apart again. Sorry.

You can try reading the MAF numbers from the computer while it idles and if they are (IIRC) less than 15, then that suggests rocker issues. However are you *sure* you don't have a boost leak or a coolant issue? White smoke is usually coolant, overfuel / under boost smoke should be black.

If it was down on power when smoking that would suggest underboost - but again, the smoke should be black. White smoke is not fuel. It may also make white smoke when the engine is stone-cold b/c it is winter, that is just poor combustion and if it goes away within 5 minutes then it may be winter related.

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

I got a safety certificate today, So I can register it and take it for a proper drive.

While it was being inspected, it was not smokey, I had to go back to work. I'll clean the MAF, and MAP. then check all hoses after work this afternoon.

I don't think its a winter issue.. here in Australia its been bloody hot for the last Month. around 32C (90F) most days.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 01, 2017 12:17 am

Oh, right - forgot about that. Ok, so that rules out the cold weather performance. Oops.

KJ Cherokee running rough.

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