Notes from Cylinder Head R&R

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 28, 2017 12:54 pm

In another thread, Flash & WW schooled me on a few of the preceding issues:

- The CCV/EHM mod:
The reason the CRD's CCV system requires a comparatively elevated vacuum source is because the VACUUM PUMP vents into the crankcase (stupid!). This substantially adds to typical "blow-by" induced crankcase-pressure; other vehicles vac-pumps simply vent to air. This charming, quirky design requires shop-vac suction to relieve the crankcase air-pressure on the oil seals. That is why my hopeful-solution (above) is hopeless. Provent or bust. (WW)

- The "Fog" or "Driving" lights (what those of us with receding hairlines call "Mini-Domes") have a cool super-secret switch: with the hi-beams ON, the light-switch clicks OUTWARD and shee-zam! Domes! (Flash)
The fact that this info is in the owners manual is irrelevant to those of us who dropped the fuel tank to access the OEM jack.

I wished I'd paid closer attention during bumper/ light swap; I def would have tapped that OEM circuit instead of the PIAA's.
Very cool switch! Excellent circuit to pirate for an anti-theft install... or ejection-seat or amphibious-system activation.

Still haven't found the Ambient Air sensor. The only thing on the radiator pillar is a connected yellow plug (presumably a collision-sensor). Odd, because pre-op/Sasq. the CRD threw no codes.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat Jan 28, 2017 1:50 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

In another thread, Flash & WW schooled me on a few of the preceding issues:

- The CCV/EHM mod:
The reason the CRD's CCV system requires a comparatively elevated vacuum source is because the AIR PUMP vents into the crankcase (stupid!). This substantially adds to typical "blow-by" induced crankcase-pressure; other vehicles air-pumps simply vent to air. This charming, quirky design requires shop-vac suction to relieve the air-pressure on the oil seals. That is why my hopefully-simple solution (above) is hopeless. Provent or bust. (WW)

- The "Fog" or "Driving" lights (what those of us with receding hairlines call "Mini-Domes") have a cool super-secret switch: with the hi-beams ON, the light-switch clicks OUTWARD and shee-zam! Domes! (Flash)
The fact that this info is in the owners manual is irrelevant to those of us who dropped the fuel tank to access the OEM jack.

I wished I'd paid closer attention during bumper/ light swap; I def would have tapped that OEM circuit instead of the PIAA's.
Very cool switch! Excellent circuit to pirate for an anti-theft install... or ejection-seat or amphibious-system activation.

Still haven't found the Ambient Air sensor. The only thing on the radiator pillar is a connected yellow plug (presumably a collision-sensor). Odd, because pre-op/Sasq. the CRD threw no codes.

Provent or stock. With silicone hoses the stock config works fine. GDE testing shows excellent mpg numbers with the stock setup, so the oil in the system is just an annoyance IMO

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 28, 2017 1:54 pm

Good on the ProVent!!! Your engine will thank you!

There appears to be two (2) air temp sensors on the diesel? One is a few inches towards the driver's side under the center of the top grill support, there you will see the connector for the temperature sensor and the sensor mounted to a bracket. It is actually just behind the grill.

Part no. for sensor: > Standard AX75 or Mopar 5149265AB

view from top:

view from front I found on web:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 28, 2017 6:35 pm

Thanks WW!
The one sensor is on the grill, now connected; if there's another, I'm not seeing it. I'm still getting a "Turbo Underboost" code but she's back to normal pep, so I'm hoping it's either the ECU still recalibrating or that disconnected air-temp sensor was partly responsible..
UPDATE: Yup, both DTC's are gone; whether that confirms that the disconnected ambient air sensor also caused the turbo underboost code... unsure, but it appears so.
Back to the good ole' egr code and a (Chrysler) 1140 code.
Running like a champion.

Until I obtain either a provent or silicone supply hose, this will have to do. I removed the lower T so now it's subject to the stock 5/8" vacuum connection. I hate that my freshly-cleaned intake hoses are about to get re-fouled.
In this setup, it's probably wishful thinking to believe that the catch-can will be effective at all:

Does anybody know where to source solely a turbo-CAC silicone hose, without the CAC-Intake hose? Every vendor appears to sell them strictly as 2-hose "kits"...

Do the CRD and gasser have identical washer-reservoirs?

(Please respond "Affirmative", cuz the imbecile-in-chief just vibro-tooled a gash in his* while trimming-off some wheel-well plastic.)

Thanks!

* following unforgivably stupid mistakes, it's always advisable to plea schizophrenic; " 'HE' Did It!" etcetera

joe_ · **Posted:** Sat Jan 28, 2017 9:34 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

Does anybody know where to source solely a turbo-CAC silicone hose, without the CAC-Intake hose? Every vendor appears to sell them strictly as 2-hose "kits"...

idparts does sell that hose alone, but probably better to stay away from that particular one. It's Crown brand and the reviews on the site say they burst open after 2-3 months.

Gypsy62 wrote:

Do the CRD and gasser have identical washer-reservoirs?

(Please respond "Affirmative", cuz the imbecile-in-chief just vibro-tooled a gash in his* while trimming-off some wheel-well plastic.)

Looks like they're the same, 5161320AC. Should be able to grab one off any 05-07 KJ at a u-pull-it or whatever. 02-04 has a different part number, but I couldn't tell you whether it'll fit on a newer Jeep. And looks like some 2007s have an alternate part number for a reservoir without a hole for a fluid level sensor; must be something that got the ax from the 'ol beancounters.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 28, 2017 11:41 pm

Thanks!

Breaktime:
My landlord said the included female pitbull guard-beast is infertile "so don't worry about the boys" when she goes into heat.
Anybody who knows Mexico knows that promises a parade of suitors. I watched this Jack Russell(ish) growl-off a 100# Shepard interloper. Of course, Jack could squeeze between the gates. The Happy Couple:

He was a super-smart street pup. Kinda' wish he'd stuck around!

Link to the "UNRATED" version on youtube:

https://youtu.be/blc7hieGK4Y

Go, Jack, Go!

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE :::

INFERTILE ??? Not so much......

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 1:32 am

Back to the grind...

So I had a coolant leak. Following a buck-nekkid short-block to complete reassembly, that's a bit harrowing. Did the head get cracked at the machine shop? Happy thoughts like that.

Thanks to the indispensable beijing coolant system pressure tester, I was able to isolate the leak with the engine cold.
The lower radiator hose connection at the water pump was "seeping" although there were no visible tears at the clamp segment:

Luckily, it's possible to trim-off the worn-end of the hose back to 'fresh' rubber while still clearing the serpentine. The left circle is the chunk trimmed-off, the right shows the serp-clearance post-cut, installed:

So far so good, but I'm gonna' lay down a few temp-cycles before I refill with NOAT. Better to waste h2o during diagnostics, repair and confirmation, at least above 32f.

With the airbox removed, I was able to snake a flex-funnel down to a clean jug to drain half the coolant. With patience and measured release you can QUICKLY drain and capture the top-half of coolant to the drop:

However, that access is with the skid-plates off, so as a 'time-saver' it may be a wash compared to making caffeine and a baby while waiting on the radiator drain-plug to perform the entire drain (located bottom-right of the radiator).
Hopefully, somebody has a cool alternative procedure for more rapidly draining the remaining coolant. That annoying plastic drain-plug takes forever and feels cheezy, like it was designed to break if actually used.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 2:28 am

I get 2 gallons out of the drain plug easily on every CRD... Except the ones where people have added "stop leak" or something similar to gum up the works.

The drain plug works just fine, it pulls out as it rotates just like the air bleed on the top. It also helps if you have a funnel or some other fluid pathway from the nipple... And open the cap. The system likes replacing water with air when draining. :wink:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 10:34 am

So the drain plug is a "rotate 90 and pull-out" proposition (ala top-vent) as opposed to "fully unscrew until max flow through nipple"?

This is about my fourth drain/fill; if it's the 1/4-turn and pull design, I guess I've been incorrectly successful. That also reduces my annoyance at the open/close access/slowness for draining.

Also, what size is that pos plastic nut to open/close the drain petcock? I've been finnagling rotations using mini-robogrips, but if it's only a '1/4 and out' then the tight wrench-access would be tolerable.

Thanks!

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 11:24 am

Not sure if it is just a 90 degree turn - I don't usually look at it that closely - but yes, the flow will increase until you hit the stop (which won't feel like much) but you don't want to pull the plug all the way out. It is a pain to get back in, and it will make a mess.

joe_ · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 3:42 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

So the drain plug is a "rotate 90 and pull-out" proposition (ala top-vent) as opposed to "fully unscrew until max flow through nipple"?

IIRC the drain is actually 180° open-to-close. As you turn it counterclockwise, the plug will move outwards from the radiator, opening the drain passageway. Likewise, as you turn it clockwise it moves back in to the radiator.

Gypsy62 wrote:

Also, what size is that pos plastic nut to open/close the drain petcock? I've been finnagling rotations using mini-robogrips, but if it's only a '1/4 and out' then the tight wrench-access would be tolerable.

I think it's a 16mm, but there are plastic nubs on two of the flats of the hex, preventing you from putting a socket or wrench on it. Someone said this was probably to prevent people from accidentally forcing it past the stops.

When I had my radiator out, I grabbed a Dremel with a sanding drum and took those nubs off so I can get a wrench on it like a normal bolt head.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 08, 2017 6:13 pm

Coolant leak repair holding after many temp-cycles.

Addressing my other blunder, i stumbled on this very good youtube link to the washer-fluid reservoir(rez) R&R:

https://youtu.be/lbIlp7ZIBKE

Note that -while it certainly eases access- you do NOT necessarily need to remove the RF wheel to R&R the rez; just pull the wheel-well clear. I drilled a hole near the edge of the wheel-well plastic to accept a bungee-end (left circle, below), thereby making it far easier to secure the flap well-clear of the rez.
I damaged mine while trimming-off wheel-well plastic (stupid!) using the (indispensable) Beijing vibro-tool. The gash is very accessible, and in an effort to allay self-disgust I've been (unsuccessfully) trying to repair it using my (mildly-useful) beijing "plastic welder" (right circle). After 3 fails, looks like I'm buying new:

APW and ROCK are both about $32, shipped. For +$5, APW offers a 5-year warranty, which given plastic&location is tempting if you freeze and/or crawl:

http://cart.autopartswarehouse.com/basket?ai=true

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog ... type=10585

Some clarification seems in order.
Gordnado was busting my chops about the beijing (some call "harbor freight") vibro-tool. The sloppy trim to the battery tray and slicing into the washer rez were both entirely MY fault, not the tool's. It is an amazingly useful tool. Simply put, there are tight-fits for cutting/trimming wood, metal, plastic and tile that NO other tool that I know of can execute. I repaired a vintage solid-oak floor which required extremely precise "plunge" cuts; this tool made it possible to reduce time and materials by >50%.

Slicing into the rez was unbridled stupidity. And it isn't that I "screwed-up" the battery-tray trim job, just that I didn't pay enough attention to make it "pretty"; the tool performed flawlessly. What can I say, I'm a bit burned-out from the past six-months of wrenching on the 05 gasser, then the CRD.

Honestly, it will take a few years of enjoying the CRD to transform my regret at swapping all of this ARB/Lift gear. I would quickly trade the 100+ hours of rusted (gasser's running-gear), nasty, heavy, under-vehicle labor for other productive and/or pleasurable diversions. The Gasser ran great, even if the frozen uca/lca bolts made it ridiculously stiff.
That optional deep-blue color is cool, too.

Here and now the CRD is running great, so maybe now I can enjoy her and shut-up for awhile lol.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:37 pm

LOL Sorry, I just couldn't resist.

I have certainly made more than my own share of "operator errors" myself.

Enjoy the fruits of your labors my friend!

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 14, 2017 5:37 pm

Spoke too soon:

Upon hard-throttle, in 2wd, what rear-drivetrain component would make a single, distinct "smack" noise?
It only occurs when hard-mashing the pedal.
I've known similar symptoms fom a bad motor mount but these are spankin' new, and the "smack" is biased rear of driver.
There's an instant of torque build-up before the "smack".
???

Thanks.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Feb 14, 2017 5:47 pm

Most of my familiarity is with the other end of this mule.

Is the smack like something hitting the body, (end of a shock perhaps ie bushing failed) or like exhaust hitting the aluminum heat shield, (failed hanger?) or like something hitting the fuel tank? Pretty much anything else that comes to mind would involve a more metallic sound.

If the boomerang has a loose attachment would it make such a sound?

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 14, 2017 10:28 pm

Rather than anything "dangling" it seems to be directly linked to torque. I went around shaking stuff and couldn't find anything loose.
I was ogling that odd big-donut thing where the Tcase output shaft connects to the rear axle. Not that it's necessarily suspect, just that it's an odd egg. Balancer of sorts, no?

My right-rear tire was down to 12#(!), though it didn't look particularly flat. I aired all 4 Duras from 32 up to spec 50.
It occured to me that the 20# difference between L/R rear may have been forcing the diff to "jump" under high-torque, potentially explaining the "smack"ing. But aired-up, still there at throttle.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 14, 2017 11:00 pm

Transmission mount? I thought my transfer case smacked the undercarriage, but maybe that's impossible and the mark is from something else :5SHOTS:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2017 2:11 pm

Thanks, MM. Trans-mount sounds like a solid suspect.
I neglected to specify that this "smacking" was NOT present before swapping the 2.5" Franken lift from the Gasser. However, the noise was NOT present when the lift was on the Gasser.
Anyway, I cannot see how rear-end SUSPENSION components would have a 'traumatic' reaction to flat-surface straight-line torque; it seems like it necessarily must be DRIVELINE related.

Can anyone confirm whether or not a bad trans-mount can be diagnosed by wrestling it? Can play be confirmed by "muscling" it, or does it only present under engine torque?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2017 2:47 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

Thanks, MM. Trans-mount sounds like a solid suspect.
Can anyone confirm whether or not a bad trans-mount can be diagnosed by wrestling it? Can play be confirmed by "muscling" it, or does it only present under engine torque?

You should be able to test it with a good prybar! It is just a simple rubber mount!
I do remember reading where the rubber mount gets weak and allows metal parts to contact under certain conditions.
I changed all three of my mounts, engine & transmission, the rear mount is not that hard to change, just a few bolts to take loose while tranny is on a support jack.... :wink:

Tools needed include a floor or bottle jack to support the rear of the transmission. A socket in the correct size and a rachet or better...an impact wrench. Drop the rear crossmember enough to remove the rear mount while supporting the transmission with a jack. Reverse the procedure

Post from geordi last year:

geordi wrote:

Could also be a sound short against the body if the rear mount has collapsed and is allowing the transmission to sag against the body. It wouldn't take much.

You can lift the transmission and shove a couple 2" square rubber "furniture foot pads" from Home Depot into the space in the mount, and if that solves the problem... Well, there you go.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 16, 2017 2:03 pm

Great info/advice. Thanks!

It occured to me that, even with a bad trans-mount, the pre-lift rear-axle geometry may not have created an acute enough load-angle to cause the trans/Tcase to torque-itself against the frame above. Add the lift, and the same force applied to a more "knuckled" driveline might be torqueing the tcase/trans upward enough to smack against the frame. I'll get under there with a crowbar and see if the mount separates.
(#@&%, I am past-done staring at the bottom of these beasts!)

The trans mount seems like a plausible explanation given that's the only condition in the rear-driveline that has "changed".
Well, that is aside from the minor matter of swapping virtually everything behind the rear driveshaft from the Gasser (ARB'd axle and ALL suspension components). I think the only rear-end gear that stayed with each vehicle was each's 'saddle-counterweight' that steeplechases the rear diff. Does that anchor serve a genuine purpose? Reminds me of the 50# lead weights that were mounted in the four corners of my long-gone '62 suicide convertible: "smooths the ride"...

UPDATE: A suspension shop helped me solve my "torque-bang"
mystery. They said the problem is a worn bushing connecting the "boomerang" rear-upper suspension component to the rear differential. There's a slight amount of play there, and I can see how hard-throttle torque could cause it to buck against the monoframe. They said it isn't hurting anything.

It is a bit strange that the "banging" wasn't present when this running gear was on the Gasser. Maybe all the unbolting/bolting during the swap allowed more freeplay and subsequent travel & flex.
Thus; "don't act surprised when a dog barks."

Notes from Cylinder Head R&R

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