taking the caps off? Or do you have to take them off and reseal it every time? Thanks.

the front diff has a drain plug and a fill plug.
For the rear diff, you have to remove the cover to drain it.

Removing the cover provides an excellent opportunity for inspecting the gears.
But if you wanted to, you could install a rear diff cover that has both drain and fill plugs.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/G2-Chrysler-8-25-Inch-Aluminum-Cover-40-2029AL.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=4041&t_pn=G%2f240-2029AL

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U.S. Army Retired

ARB also makes a read diff cover for the Chrysler 8.25 inch rear differential.

http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Differentia ... 85C10.aspx

It is powder coated, nodular cast iron and way tougher than the G2 axle cover, but it is also a little more expensive.

You can use a suction pump for the rear Diff, but as others said, it's better to remove the cover and look at the gears, Diff, etc.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Yeah, I had one of these that ran quietly, even towed 5500 pounds over Donner pass, but when I opened it up there was a nice piece out of a spider gear tooth. Easy save and no crash either

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete