So after the long and winding drama of replacing my P/S hoses (which included a break for a back injury), it's all back in and buttoned up ... just need to fill and bleed the system. I was planning to follow the FSM process, which seems awfully complicated (compared to the process detailed for the 3.7 in the FSM). 1) Is there an easier way to do it without risking damage to the pump? 2) If not ... it wants me to unplug the fuel rail connection, identified in a vague illustration. Is the attached photo what I need to pull? Anyone know how it comes off? I am horrible at getting the connectors off this car. They all seem to require hands the size of a baby's but with the strength of a silverback gorilla. Is there another way to crank without it starting? Maybe just use a bump starter?
I'm waiting for the special tool for pulling vacuum on the reservoir to come and I'm sure I'll have trouble with that stage too when I get to it. This has been quite the ordeal for P/S hoses.

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD Limited, Light Khaki on Slate - 142,000 miles
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D - 314,000 miles
1978 Mercedes-Benz 240D 4spd manual - 371,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze 1.6L turbodiesel, 6spd manual - 58,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4spd manual - 132,000 miles
1994 Mercedes-Benz SL500 - 94,000 miles

The way I did it when I replaced the PS hoses, I just added atf+4 to the PS bottle and started the engine and let it idle. Some of the fluid will go towards the pump anyways before you start, so it's not like you'll break anything by running the pump dry for 10-20 seconds at low, idle rpm. Just watch out the bottle since in about 30 seconds you'll need to add more fluid.

I believe the manual suggest to unplug the rail pressure valve connector to make sure the vehicle won't start, and you should crank for few seconds to allow the pump to prime. At least that's what I think. I just started the engine and let it idle, it will instantly suck new fluid...


And yes, PS hoses are a pain in the butt to replace...

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

It says you want to crank it to build pressure, but has "do not start" in all caps. The gasser on the other hand you just fill, go lock to lock a few times, then start ... I guess this is because the gasser PS pump has an integral reservoir? I'm tempted to just crank it a couple cranks with the starter and hope it doesn't start ... it's been sitting a long enough time that it might just not start easily at all, which will work in my favor. I also don't want to take the chance of ruining my pump after all this.
The whole FSM procedure:
PRE AIR EVACUATION PROCEDURE (1) Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settle for at least two minutes.
(2) Remove the fuel rail electrical connector (Fig. 4). (3) Crank the engine (DO NOT START) to pressurize the system. (4) Check fluid level. (5) Repeat steps #1 & #3). (6) Reconnect the fuel rail electrical connector (Fig. 4).
AIR EVACUATION AND FILL PROCEDURE (1) Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level at the cold mark. (1) Tightly insert special tool 9688 onto the pump reservoir. (2) Apply 20–25 in HG (68–85 Kpa) of vacuum for a minimum of 3 minutes. (3) Remove the vacuum and special tool 9688 and add fluid to the proper level. (4) Repeat steps #2 thru # 4 until fluid level stabilizes. (5) Raise the vehicle so the front tires are off the ground. (6) With special tool 9688 installed onto the reservoir apply 20–25 in HG (68–85 Kpa) of vacuum, while cycling the steering wheel from lock to lock every 30 seconds for approximately 5 minutes.
NOTE: Do not hold the steering wheel on stops.
(7) Remove the vacuum and add fluid if necessary. (8) Start the engine and cycle the steering wheel from lock to lock every 30 seconds for approximately 5 minutes.


I do have the special tool, so if I can just do the first part with a few cranks, I should be able to follow the rest.

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD Limited, Light Khaki on Slate - 142,000 miles
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D - 314,000 miles
1978 Mercedes-Benz 240D 4spd manual - 371,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze 1.6L turbodiesel, 6spd manual - 58,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4spd manual - 132,000 miles
1994 Mercedes-Benz SL500 - 94,000 miles

That plug on the back of the fuel rail is definitely a pain to disconnect. Practically right up against the firewall, and the locking tab is facing the firewall rather than facing outward. The only way I've ever been able to unplug it while the fuel rail is still mounted on the engine is by sneaking a pair of needlenose pliers back there to squeeze the locking tab.

You should be able to unplug the camshaft position sensor to prevent the engine from starting while working the air out of the power steering system. Or maybe instead, just turn the power steering pulley by hand a bunch of times before you put the belt back on. Should turn clockwise when viewed from the front of the vehicle.

I was able to get the pump primed by just cranking and shutting it off as soon as the engine started ... did this a few times until the fluid level stabilized, then I put the vacuum on the reservoir. Had a hard time getting much vacuum on it and I'm not sure if I even got much air out ... the fluid level only went down a tiny bit. I did that for ages and then just started the car and turned the wheel lock to lock ... steering seems to work normally and the fluid level stays stable with no foam. The fluid level goes up when I shut the engine off though (from max cold to max hot) and back down when it's running (back to max cold) ... that's not normal, is it? I'm wondering if there's a little bit of air somewhere that's getting compressed when it's running and expanding when it's off.
Other than that, seems good ... I don't see any leaks. Of course I can't get the fascia and grille to line up quite right but at least it drives.

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD Limited, Light Khaki on Slate - 142,000 miles
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D - 314,000 miles
1978 Mercedes-Benz 240D 4spd manual - 371,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze 1.6L turbodiesel, 6spd manual - 58,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4spd manual - 132,000 miles
1994 Mercedes-Benz SL500 - 94,000 miles

Still seems to have air in it. I managed to pull a little out with vacuum but apparently not all. I get vibrations when trying to drive so it's either not bled right or I did something wrong with the hoses. I've been pulling vacuum on it forever.

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD Limited, Light Khaki on Slate - 142,000 miles
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D - 314,000 miles
1978 Mercedes-Benz 240D 4spd manual - 371,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze 1.6L turbodiesel, 6spd manual - 58,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4spd manual - 132,000 miles
1994 Mercedes-Benz SL500 - 94,000 miles

Gonna bump this thread up to the top for some advice:

I am also having a heck of a time getting this steering system bled. I replaced the long line (with the cooler loop) while doing the head gasket and everything else. I hadn't read anything about this and for the usual, fill, lock to lock for awhile, and then lock to lock with the engine running. There is zero power assist. I see no foam in the reservoir and the level isn't changing. Any advice appreciated!