in hose thermostat -(no housing)

maxwellp · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 6:34 am

Murray Caps & Stats - Standard Thermostat
Part # 3519
Line: MCS

maxwellp · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 6:41 am

You could try putting the end of the hose in some hot water, that should make it more flexible. Now that I think about it I used a very small amount of silicon grease inside the hose to help it slide in but it was not hard to do. Just clean it off before putting the hose back on the engine outlet. And use a hose clamp to keep the new thermostat from sliding up to the radiator. :pepper:

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:55 pm

Agree use a small amount of grease and be sure to use a 2nd clamp. If you use the Stant 13519 break off the little ball valve leaving a small hole to releve any traped air.

maxwellp · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:01 pm

I should add that I did drill a 1/32 hole in the Murray to let any air out. Just put the hole to the top of the hose.

bigfatsi · **Joined:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 6:48 am **Posts:** 8

Just fitted mine today.

In the UK, so I used a Renault 5 Stat. Same size etc.

Been for a half hour drive and temp is up to just left of midway. Drilled a 3mm hole in the side and it slipped straight in.

Pn QTH144

HTH

S

LIBERTYinLIBERTY · **Posted:** Sat Dec 22, 2012 2:42 pm

I put the Murry in last winter, went bad :furious:

, just put the Stant 13519 195f Thermostat in, 5 min to switch it out, working fine now! :BANANA:

Dave01 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:00 am

I installed the Stant 13519 today, drilled a 3/32 hole. The CRD warmed up quicker and came up to just a slight tick to the left of half way. Heat was awesome compared to what I've been used to!

maxwellp · **Posted:** Fri Dec 28, 2012 9:56 am

Dave01 wrote:

I installed the Stant 13519 today, drilled a 3/32 hole. The CRD warmed up quicker and came up to just a slight tick to the left of half way. Heat was awesome compared to what I've been used to!

If it still takes too long to warm up try a 1/32 hole. I had a 3/32 hole and when it was very cold it would take a long time to warm up. I think the hole was letting to much water by. Put a new one in with a 1/32 hole and warm up was way faster.

Dave01 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:30 am

maxwellp wrote:

If it still takes too long to warm up try a 1/32 hole. I had a 3/32 hole and when it was very cold it would take a long time to warm up. I think the hole was letting to much water by. Put a new one in with a 1/32 hole and warm up was way faster.

I realize water pumps move a lot of liquid, but it amazes me that enough flows through these tiny holes to make much difference! So far so good with the 3/32. I know people say the 13519 already has a hole in it, but my feeble eyes couldn't find it. Makes me wonder if there are a few slightly different versions of the same stat.

maxwellp · **Posted:** Fri Dec 28, 2012 11:07 am

Dave01 wrote:

maxwellp wrote:

If it still takes too long to warm up try a 1/32 hole. I had a 3/32 hole and when it was very cold it would take a long time to warm up. I think the hole was letting to much water by. Put a new one in with a 1/32 hole and warm up was way faster.

I realize water pumps move a lot of liquid, but it amazes me that enough flows through these tiny holes to make much difference! So far so good with the 3/32. I know people say the 13519 already has a hole in it, but my feeble eyes couldn't find it. Makes me wonder if there are a few slightly different versions of the same stat.

There is! I have three of them they all look different with the same part number. One has a hole with a BB over it.

dsmithwc04 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:32 pm

Just ordered a stant 13519 from ebay. Should be here early next week. Already have some g-05 left over from timing belt/water pump replacement. Of course the OEM thermostat would die a few thousand miles after I replaced the waterpump/timing belt and not before so I could have done it all at once. Figure might as well try this cheap route and see how it goes. I figure I will drill a 3/32 hole / 3mm hole into the bell/skirt and be done with it.

BTW, anybody know if the TORQUE software is more acurate than the needle guage in the instrument cluster? I know they use the same sensor but some have said the needle was still at 12 o'clock even when at 240F+ as if it wasn't reacting to the sensor measurment?

Right now the temp is less than 1/4 (140F according to TORQUE). I figure its a prime example to use the inline since it most definately is stuck full open or very close to it correct?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Dec 28, 2012 6:34 pm

Correct temp postions on the temp gauge are posted at http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/19.page for both the correct diesel gauge flash and the incorrect gasser flash that some of us had. Some have kept the gasser flash because they like the way it reads; not because it impacts the engine overheat cutoffs in anyway.

tedder · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:19 pm **Posts:** 137

Just got my Stant 13519 from amazon. Being the curious person I thought I would see how it works and boiled some water and put the bulb in it. well it didn't do what I expected it didn't move at all. I thught it would open just like a regular thermostat I've done this to in the past.

Anyone else tried this?

tedder · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:19 pm **Posts:** 137

update: I did my experiment again this time I filled the pan up over the thermostat and let it soak longer at boiling and it opened. I guess I didn't let the mass of the bulb soak long enough in the first test.

Billy M · **Posted:** Tue Jan 15, 2013 3:44 pm

I thought my CRD was running a little cool. I saw some t-stat threads on here and my gauge was holding at the 1/4 mark all the time. I'm putting the in-line t-stat in for now. I'll probably be installing a new one in the spring. $102 at my dealership. Anyone have a less expensive source? That's the best I could come up with. Smythe could get one for $115.

Billy

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jan 15, 2013 4:23 pm

If you can get an OEM for $102 grab it and run, that's a good price. Be sure to get a gasket to go with it. FYI you will need a 1/4" ca. 6" long wobbly extension and a 10mm IIRC 1/4" drive socket to get the "invisible" lower rear bolt off as there is a hump in the way of using a 3/8" drive rig. The old gasket will stick but can be removed by careful use of a single sided razor blade like for a paint scraper but be carefult of gouging the aluminium head surface (a bit of RTV black is good on the head side on reinstall and may make future removal easier.

Other than that it's pretty easy:
1. have a bit of HOAT coolant on hand as you will spill a little
2. don't forget the temp sending unit on the back of the tstat head. Mine was upside down so I couldn't get to the clip to undo the wiring until I pulled the tstat but on reinstall it went in right side up.
3. pay attention to hose routing. At least one member goofed on hose routing on reinstall which baffled him for a day or two.

arengant · **Posted:** Tue Jan 15, 2013 5:56 pm

papaindigo wrote:

FYI you will need a 1/4" ca. 6" long wobbly extension and a 10mm IIRC 1/4" drive socket to get the "invisible" lower rear bolt off as there is a hump in the way of using a 3/8" drive rig.

After removing airbox and rotating the air hose and CAC hose out of the way I could reach the hidden bolt with a long extension, no wobbly needed for me

tedder · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:19 pm **Posts:** 137

Got the Stant inline installed yesterday and drove to work temperature just left of noon. I'm putting the one in hers will drill a 3/32" hole instead of the 1/8". At air temps of 22F it still takes awhile to warm up.
Saw numbers in the 30's on the overhead MPG average. don't think it's correct about 4 MPG too good but only saw 20's before.

:BANANA:

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

I am bumping this thread for reference purposes.

I am very curious as to how many people who did this highly questionable modification eventually had cylinder head gasket issues, or no longer have their CRD at all.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 06, 2017 8:43 pm

I'm going on 110k miles with an inline. No problems yet

in hose thermostat -(no housing)

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