I am having an issue with my crd,

It drives and shifts fine up until typically 45 to 50 mph, at that point if the tach is cruising in the 1500 rpm range it will buck or sputter when i initially give it throttle... seems to be during 4th to 3rd downshift when going up hill or after a long coast downhill and applying throttle to maintain speed. if I keep the tach above 2000 rpm when I initially accelerate and then coast until it settles around 1000 rpm and repeat it has not shown symptoms (keep it out of operating @ 1500 rpm steadily), but if I try to drive steady and it sits in the 1500 range it will do it.

I did the key trick and got the following codes: p0120 and p1216 (also a p0299 boost sensor code but I think that has to do with my MAF being disconnected due to ear clog and ORM - thats been disconnected for 60,000 miles with no issues).

I thought it was the apps in the pedal so I replaced that this a.m. but it did not fix it and all the codes are still there.

Any Ideas on what to look at next? The codes were not listed with chrysler and I got them from a dodge diesel forum.

p0120 - apps/tps sensor circuit A malfucttion
p1216 - apps/tps sensor circuit C too high? or low can't remember

But p1216 could also be fuel solenoid response time too short (depending on source)

Do our motors also have a TPS/APPS on the throttle itself? I have read conflicting accounts, some say yes, others say no its all on the pedal...

also... I forgot,

in the past year I have noticed the red lightning bolt come on after I have it plugged in at night when cold intermittently, but it goes out as soon as I shut it down and doesn't come back (that is not on now)

I had an issue with it blowing white smoke and starting rough last summer... right after it started, it would cough and rumble them settle down to normal idle, but it would smoke and smell like fuel until driven a mile or less then would operate normally, I thought it was air in the fuel filter so I was bleeding it often, then put some diesel injector cleaner in it and it cleared up and has been fine for 10 months.

How many miles on your CRD and where are you located?

Get a good code scanner. The key trick is sometimes unreliable.

The accelerator pedal is the only throttle input. It's all electronic.

Your symptoms indicate a possible loose connection to one of the injectors or a sensor.
Could also be a transmission/torque converter problem. Make sure your transaction fluid is at the full-hot mark.

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U.S. Army Retired

182k and change everything runs smooth except that shift...update, just took a ride with a buddy and he thinks it could be getting hung up shifting to 4th from 5th somehow and not shifting out on time but just an opinion, all other shifts are smooth as butter . it does it worse when od is off, but very predictable .... i can replicate the problem

trans fluid is good, how would i check injector connections? which sensors would possibly play in and just check the harness plug?

thanks by the way

When was the tranny last serviced? Good first step if tranny is acting weird - add 1qt ATF+4 as the tranny seems to be happiest if a bit overfilled.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Just as Pap said, first step, change the filters (there are 2) and the fluid and add some extra ATF+4 to the transmission and see what that does and report back...
Gotta start with the basics....

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Fluid is red and clear, After 4th start up cycle it mellowed out a bit with the new pedal sensor i think, we hooked it up to a shop scanner and went for a drive, of course with the mechanic she didn't want to show off but it still surged/bucked/ lightly... at the 45-50 range then a mellow episode at about 30-35 going up a slight hill in the 1500ish rpm range... Almost like something was pushing/bumping the jeep... kinda like a misfire in a gas motor. No tranny codes, the two codes I saw with the key trick that related to the pedal were gone, and all that was left was a p0299 for turbo under boost.

Maybe the boost sensor is dirty? I did not know until 3 days ago that there was a little filter on the bottom, lol. Other things I've come across deal with the vacuum solenoid or a vacuum leak in the tribe system.

I am also wondering if hooking the scanner up made her behave better? I've read that the jeep doesn't compete well sometimes with scanners when running but id figure it would run worse.

Thermostat failed this winter and may have been for a while, had no heat and only would get 1/4 warm. I installed a stand 180 degree in the hose butted up to original housing and its been rock solid where it should be for 6 months or so, could that have maybe freed up some soot to get clogged in the boost sensor or something to cause the issue?

just thinking of all possibilities

The MAP sensor is what senses boost and is on top of the engine. If you have never cleaned or replaced it then it's definitely long over due.
The MAP sensor gets gunked up because of the EGR valve and crankcase vent.

You should find a way to block or delete your EGR valve.
Should also install a Provent.

Also, time to start making plans for a timing belt change.

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U.S. Army Retired