Questions:

Is it ok to turn crank backwards through whole cycle by hand with timing belt in place? ( not just rock back and forth a little)

If put belt on one notch off ( or may be off) How many revolutions before you might hit a valve if ever, or does it stay one notch off and just wouldn't run correctly.

I ask because it looked a little off but not a whole tooth off ( thought it could just be ld belt stretched a little) but when tuned clockwise by hand reinserted pins and couldn't find crank hole and yes I tried the 180 degree opposite too.

In case I need to, Can you reset timing without loosening the cam sprockets?

I am sure I could rotate crank independent of cams without belt on but that would at some point hit valve .

If I can rotate backward safely I can get to where belt marks all line up again and move one tooth over on belt if needed.

I have rotated two full cycles with belt on either correctly or one notch off and I didn't hit anything but i would suppose it could do this with timing off a notch worth or about 1 !/2 degrees with a 220 notch timing belt

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

I dont want to say that with it 1/2 tooth off everything will be fine and dandy. Might be, might not.
So, here is what I would do...

Keep the cams pinned.
Loosen the cam sprocket bolts, carefully, using something to hold the sprockets in place.
Gently turn the crank CCW about 45 degrees.
Then loosen the belt tensioner.
Gently turn the crank CW until 90 deg after top dead center, or until the crank pin goes in.
(just make sure its 90 deg ATDC)
Set the belt tensioner at the proper position and torque the bolt.
Then torque the cam sprocket bolts, carefully, using something to hold the sprockets in place.

At this point, everything (cams, crank, sprockets, and tensioner) should be in their proper positions.
Remove both cam pins and the crank pin.
Crank over by hand 4-6 times and make sure the pins go back in the way they are supposed to and check that the tensioner is still in the correct position.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I guess alternatively, you could...

Loosen the tension. Keeping the cams pinned.
Remove the belt.
Gently move the crank until its pin goes in. (verify that its 90 deg ATDC)
Then put the belt back on and see how well the belt teeth mesh with the sprockets.
I suspect it will be pretty tight. If it only meshes loosely, keep the crank pin in place and try to rock the crank CCW just a little until you can get the belt teeth to mesh.
Even with the crank pin in, you can still move the crank a few degrees.

Then set the tensioner and torque it.

The whole point is, you want the tension side of the belt to be tight before you set the tensioner. The tensioner is on the slack side of the belt.

If that doesn't work you will have to reset the sprockets.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Flash, Thanks for the reply. to clarify: The teeth of belt are in the groves normally its just that the markings were about Half tooth off after tensioning belt and removing pins. So either the belt is on correctly or it is at most one tooth off but it was not very loose on the fuel pump side of the crank.

I see what you r suggesting. I would like to avoid loosening cam gears since i don't have a great way to hold them against the torque required to retighten them. I have thought more about it. The following is my current plan unless someone has a good reason not to do it this way.

1. Turn crank clockwise (CCW) until I can insert cam pins.
2. Remove pins and turn crank no more than 2 teeth on belt in each direction while checking for flywheel pin
3. If I cannot insert flywheel pin rocking in this manner and degree turn cw another 180 degrees until cam pins can go in again and repeat above

Two possibilities:

A. I find where the flywheel lock goes in . In which case, I then check cam pins again and if not aligned reposition belt one tooth over. This should be corrected by getting the crank to catch one more tooth on the fuel pump side but I will be able to confirm this by what direction I have to rotate crank to find the flywheel lock. If successful turn cw and reconfirm pin positions as usual.

B. Above isn't successful, which should only happen if I cannot find flywheel lock . I then rotate cw till I find flywheel lock. mark this location . Check cam pin for completeness but it should not fit now since it didn't in A above. Then rotate about 350 degrees and start looking for cam pin location till 360 degrees and if cam hole not found reconfirm flywheel lock at 360 degrees then continue cw another 10 degrees or so to find cam pin location. If found, and not far off remove belt correct and replace and recheck till correct placement confirmed. If this does not work, I either try your method or start from scratch as if belt broke.

Any suggestion/feedback appreciated.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Well my way did work . Thanks for help. Back together and running normally again



Thanks

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden