I installed these steel glow plugs and am extremely unimpressed with them. I would go back to the Bosch ceramics I took out if I wasn't so afraid of the tips breaking...

55-60* ambient temperature, it takes a good 4 seconds of cranking to fire, sometimes (2times) 4 second cranks.

60-85* ambient temperature it takes about 3 seconds of cranking

85-95* ambient temperature it takes 2-3 seconds of cranking

100* ambient temperature it takes 2 seconds or less of cranking

50* (coldest I've tried so far) it took (5-6times) 6 seconds of cranking, and ran rough for a few seconds

I live in Wisconsin, and that just isn't going to work.

Is there anything I need to update or install to make these 7v work better, or is this just how they are? What other options do I have if this is what I'm to expect? If there are no other options, how risky is it running the original ceramic glow plugs?

I'm afraid that once fall comes, I won't be able to start this thing...

Thanks

All the temps you listed are well above freezing.
You should have no problems starting at those temps.
Heck, most of the time, if ambient temps are above 65F the engine will start up just fine with all 4 glow plugs unplugged.
Maybe your battery is getting weak?

Yes, the etecno plugs are not as good as the ceramics were.
I installed my etecno 7v plugs back in Sept 14 and havent had any problems.
But I live in FL and having to start the engine in freezing cold is not something I have to deal with often.

If you find that cold winter starts are a problem, you may want to switch to the 5v plugs.

Just for the heck of it, I went out to my jeep this morning and pulled out the glow plug relay, thus preventing the glow plugs from turning on.
Ambient temp 75F.
Jeep has sat for at least 12 hours without running.
Engine started right up without hesitation.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I have no problems starting above 50 deg F, but I definitely plug in if I can if the temp are in the 30's or below.

If the temps are in the teen's I don't even try unless I've had the block heater on for a couple of hours.

I have this luxury because I have a couple of spare vehicles and even though they're all diesels, the Jeep is the worst to cold start.

_________________
#1 2006 Silver CRD Limited, flipped spare tire, ASFIR skids, GDE TCM & Ecotune, blue SAMCOs, 5V glow plugs, Rotella T6, intank fuel pump, Gen2 fuel head, new crank sensor, JBA 2.5 in silver package, Provent and ARB bumper
#2 2006 Metallic Green Limited; currently DOA
#3 2005 Silver project; currently not running...don't judge me

All of those temperatures and the crank times you are posting suggest you have something else happening. You shouldn't EVER have 2-3 actual seconds of cranking above 60 degrees, especially at 100! My CRDs and the ones I've worked on all start in less than 1 second.

What has been done on your CRD? I hope the timing belt is fresh (or at least not the original) and was it done with the pins? Having the timing off can make it hard to start, if it isn't off far enough to damage the rockers.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
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Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
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Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

The battery is brand new and has higher CCA than original Optima.

Is there something I can check to see if it's the plugs?

Even if I run the jeep all day and turn it off, and try to immediately start it, it will start like it sat forever, and start according to the ambient temperature chart I posted above.

I saw something about an updated relay that operated 5v and 7v steels, would that be of any help?

Sounds like maybe fuel. Do you have the 2nd gen filter head and/or a lift pump?

_________________
2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

If you shut it off and it immediately has trouble starting again, it is definitely not the glow plugs. At operating temps the glow plugs aren't even attempting to help the engine start. This sounds more like a failing fuel rail pressure sensor or leaking injectors to me. Not sure why it would correlate with changing the glow plugs. Do you have any smoke when the vehicle first starts up after sitting awhile? Check while someone else starts the vehicle so you can watch the tailpipe, because it doesn't always rise straight up where you can see it. Are you getting poor mileage or unsteady RPM's while idling with the air turned off?

There are a ton of people here who can diagnose these things way better than me, but it really doesn't sound like glow plugs to me.

_________________
2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

How do I know if my fuel head is the 2nd gen or not? I want to do the in tank fuel pump, but at this time don't have time to do that. I can purge a little air whenever I try to at the pump head.

Fuel mileage is exceptional, and RPM's are steady.

The updated fuel head should have a light blue connector for the fuel heater.

How are your coolant levels?
Any mysterious loss of coolant?

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Coolant Levels are great, absolutely no leaks or coolant loss.

My connector is dark blue. See pic


.... how do you attach a pic???

You have to use another site to host the image and then link to it from the post.

Now what about the timing belt? Starting problems can be caused by the timing not being correct.

I replaced the Turbo, did Weeks stage 1&2, oil change, new fuel filter, new air filter, new battery, and the plugs all at the same time. That was 2 months ago, and these long start conditions were immediate after I restarted first time after all that was installed. Immediately before I took everything out, I had zero problems starting, except weak battery.

Timing belt was done 60-70k mikes ago. I'm probably going to do it again next year.

Is there something I might not have hooked up? After doing Weeks 1/2, there's a few things that go nowhere now, maybe I missed something... what should I be looking for?

Gornado PM'd me about a new version of etechno1, will that be better for cold weather? I just want the same performance my ceramics gave me with the peace of mind that it won't break off. I really never had a problem starting with the ceramics in even below zero temps.

Thanks for the help

Sorry, I posted that long ago, I never realized that it actually never posted to the site

I guess I won't be posting pics then. It looks like I have the updated one, it has a brighter blue connector, I was thinking baby blue, when someone said light blue.

I can get air out of it every time I try though, it's not much, but it's there. I just purged all the air out right now, and starting was unaffected.

If you have android or iPhone you can use the Tapatalk app and that will allow you to post photos you take on your phone without using a 3rd party. Tapatalk itself hosts the photo. Makes it super easy.

Also, if you have android you can use the torque app and a Bluetooth obd adapter to monitor rail pressure.

_________________
2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Ok, we are getting closer to an answer. If you didn't have any issues before doing that list... Go through EVERYTHING on that list and see what you have going on.

Pumping up the fuel line / removing air will not keep the button firm after you start the engine, b/c that removes the pressure in the line that you just created by pumping the plunger. BUT, pumping it up and then starting the engine should not allow any actual AIR to collect in the filter when you try pumping it again right after shutting it down. If there is air, then something is going on with the fuel system. When you put the filter on, did you ensure there was only ONE center gasket on the filter, and the old one came off with the old filter? This is a common problem (it gets stuck to the center shaft) and two gaskets will prevent a good seal.

I thought I checked to make sure I had only one gasket on the fuel filter. I'm not positive, so this weekend, I will pull it off.

Oddly, I fueled up 30 minutes ago, and on the way home accelerated moderately fast. Went into limp mode and CIL. I pulled the codes as soon as I got home and this is what I found:

PCM:
B10B3
P0093

TCM:
(*currently running Ram Hemi TCM)
P0075
P002C

What my code reader says they are and what I found online, are 2 different things. Online, they look fuel related. Does any of this seem to be related to my poor starting?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The p0093 code is the only one that makes sense.
It indicates a fuel system problem.
Could be a air in fuel problem.
Could be a loose connection at the fuel rail pressure sensor.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Tomorrow I will go through the entire install process of everything I did 2 months ago, unplugging everything and re plugging it back in, to see if I missed something or didn't get it tight.

Also wouldn't hurt to check all the battery connectors, and ground-side cables for tightness and ? A loose or corroded ground wire/connection could make a new battery perform like a bad one, (poor cranking) yet still have enough connection that it doesn't show up as bad.

That and the fuel situation already discussed, are the only things on your list that make sense to me with the information I've gleaned.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770