Just thought I would share some pictures of the stock GT2056V that I tore down the other day:



Oil Drain:


Oil Inlet:


VNT Arm and actuator:


VNT Vacuum Actuator:


Comp Cover inside:


Comp Wheel and Backplate:


Turbine Wheel:


VNT Mechanism with Vanes Closed:


VNT Mechanism with Vanes Open:


Vanes Closed:


Vanes Open:


Rotating Assembly:


Comp Inducer:


Comp Exducer:


Turbine Inducer:


Turbine Exducer:


Compressor Backplate:


Thrust Washer:


Oil Passages and Bearing:


Bearing:

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

YIKES! did you have major oil leaks and coking issues?

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Got Sheep?

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead

Not mine but everything felt pretty good. Bearings felt solid and the vnt mechanism was totally free to move. I think it had around 150k.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Assuming its one I had (pretty safe assumption) It had 151,000 with GDE Hot Tune used since sometime before I bought it at 85,000 miles. Regular oil changes at 5,000 miles or less with mobil one 5w-40 Turbo diesel or T6 Rotella oil. It was removed from that vehicle to swap to a GDE Stage II Turbo . It performed flawlessly up to time of removal. Also used Seafoam about once a month in fuel and for about 100 miles prior to every other oil change.

No Elephant hose or Provent type mod.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Yup, thanks for that. The insides we very clean, just some sooty crud on the inside of the turbine housing which came off with a brush and engine degreaser. But like I said, the vnt arm and mechanism moved effortlessly. Couple of things are in the works so hopefully we will get some cool things out it.

The part that got me was how stuck on the stock compressor wheel was. It took me grabbing the end of the turbine side with vice grips and the comp wheel itself with 9" adjustable wrench to break it free. This of course put marks on the comp side since it's aluminum. I tried wrapping the wheels with microfiber towels and twisting by hand but that didn't work, then I tried with wrenches and towels and they slipped. I don't know how you would ever get a wicked wheel on without pulling the whole turbo.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I use break cleaner soaking for carbon stuff . Much better than PB blaster etc. for that type of thing. Remove stuck glow plugs or injectors get them loose with PB blaster type spray and work some then spray brake cleaner once it has a way in. Alternate both if needed. Of course, Not sure it would work on that, but helpful for other things at times.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

curious.....whats the life of the factory turbo on these 2005 CRD's? my jeep has 268,000 KM's, FACTORY turbo and it spools up fast and still has no play. Should i consider a maintenance service on it (seals, bearings,etc) or just keep on keeping on with 5000 KM Mobil Delvac ESP 0W40 / Mobil1-M1-301 filter changes ? I did Militec1 the engine and turbo 60,000 KM's ago.

i run it long and hard and hot, NO short trips. Always spool down and cool down the turbo bearings for 2 to 10 minutes depending on situ .....

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Got Sheep?

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead

I have a little over 200,000 miles on my factory turbo.
Still spools up fast and no play.

The bearings and seals in the turbo will eventually wear out.
Turbo cooldown time + frequent oil changes + good quality oil = a turbo that will last a long time.

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U.S. Army Retired

The biggest killer of these turbos is not letting them cool-down. Most turbos use floating bearings, which means theres oil on the outside and inside the bearing. Also provides dampening to the shaft harmonics. Our bearings are non-floating, they're pinned in place and oil is only on the inside of the bearings. My theory on why is beacause with a vnt turbo, you can have high shaft speeds at low engine rpm. Because the oil pump is driven by engine rpms, low engine rpms = low oil pressure. Journal bearing turbos need pressure to work as designed, having high shaft speed and low oil pressure would wreck bearings fast. Floating bearings require more pressure and flow since there is oil on both sides, where fixed bearings need less oil press/flow cuz there is less than half the surface area to keep lubed. Again, this is my theory.
Where this matters is cool-down. When you shutdown heat travels from the exhaust wheel and through the shaft. Floating bearings have more oil around to soak up the heat, they can still be cooked, it just takes more. Also when these cook, the bearings will be stuck to the shaft, but because they float in there bores, they are still able to spin. Only they are spinning at the same speed as the shaft. This is fine at idle, but one the turbo spools the brass bushings cant take the g-load, expand, touch the housing, and then carnage.
Fixed bearings have very little oil to soak up the heat. What is there is heated up faster and hotter. Once its cooked, the shaft has no choice but to spin because the bearing is fixed in its bore. Wherever the highest point of friction is it builds up heat until the shaft fails.
This is why almost all turbos now are watercooled. The water cooling is not meant to do any kind of cooling while it runs, its only there to absorb heat after a shutdown. All of garretts new vnt turbos are watercooled, hmmmm coincidence??

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.