white smoke after fuel filter replacment

LoveMyLibby · **Posted:** Wed Aug 23, 2017 4:09 pm

Seems like lately after evey oil change and fuel filter change, the CRD has white smoke coming from exhaust and runs like doo doo. Have to constantly bleed fuel lines, mess with tightness of fuel filter....and finally it clears up. Had new fuel fiter housingreplaced and put in an in tank lift pump. Still has rough, hard starts. Any ideas?

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:46 pm

Has it been consuming coolant?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 23, 2017 6:26 pm

X2

Your symptoms indicate coolant getting into the cylinders.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:37 pm

Are you bleeding all the air out of the system after installing the new fuel filter?
Have bleeder valve cracked open and cycle key a few times till no air comes out of bleeder valve.
Close bleeder valve and manual pump should be tight!
Are you filling the filter with clean diesel fuel before installing it and bleeding? That always helps the bleeding process...

:SOMBRERO:

LoveMyLibby · **Posted:** Thu Aug 24, 2017 1:05 pm

Thanks for the input. Someone else mentioned hard starting/ rough could be fuel pressure solenoid, also. Or leaking injectors, which were replaced with rebuilt last year.

krautastic · **Joined:** Sat Jun 03, 2017 9:52 pm **Posts:** 33

Weird that its always with those maintenance items, but, you could shut the car off, and the next morning pull your glow plugs out and unplug all your injectors and crank for a few seconds. If coolant shoots out, you're leaking down into your cylinders at shut off and will need to either retorque your head bolts/arp head studs, or do the gasket replacement. I just did this on mine because it was leaking down into cylinder 2 after shut down.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 24, 2017 1:42 pm

krautastic wrote:

Weird that its always with those maintenance items, but, you could shut the car off, and the next morning pull your glow plugs out and unplug all your injectors and crank for a few seconds. If coolant shoots out, you're leaking down into your cylinders at shut off and will need to either retorque your head bolts/arp head studs, or do the gasket replacement. I just did this on mine because it was leaking down into cylinder 2 after shut down.

That makes me curious regarding installing ARP Studs as a way to re-seal a leaking head gasket.
Between JWS84_02 and Geordi, I'm betting they've done this as much or more than all of us non-traveling mechanics put together.
I'm wondering, Of the ARP sets they've installed for this purpose,
how many successfully re-sealed the existing head gasket leak?
And of those, how many ultimately failed, and had to replace the head gasket as well?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 24, 2017 2:42 pm

LoveMyLibby wrote:

Thanks for the input. Someone else mentioned hard starting/ rough could be fuel pressure solenoid, also. Or leaking injectors, which were replaced with rebuilt last year.

Any kind of fault with the fuel rail pressure solenoid, fuel quantity solenoid, or fuel rail pressure sensor will set a trouble code.

If an injector were leaking, that would be too much fuel and you would have black exhaust smoke.

Your symptoms are somewhat similar to cold winter starts with bad glow plugs.
But its now summertime. Cold starting or bad glow plugs are not the problem here.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:54 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

krautastic wrote:

Weird that its always with those maintenance items, but, you could shut the car off, and the next morning pull your glow plugs out and unplug all your injectors and crank for a few seconds. If coolant shoots out, you're leaking down into your cylinders at shut off and will need to either retorque your head bolts/arp head studs, or do the gasket replacement. I just did this on mine because it was leaking down into cylinder 2 after shut down.

That makes me curious regarding installing ARP Studs as a way to re-seal a leaking head gasket.
Between JWS84_02 and Geordi, I'm betting they've done this as much or more than all of us non-traveling mechanics put together.
I'm wondering, Of the ARP sets they've installed for this purpose,
how many successfully re-sealed the existing head gasket leak?
And of those, how many ultimately failed, and had to replace the head gasket as well?

To be honest, I've only done 2 arp stud jobs one by one that had a leak present already. I have done 13 complete head gaskets now. Of those 2 mentioned, I haven't heard from the owners so assume the arp studs are working. Not sure on their miles driven but one was done August 2015 and the other January 2016

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Aug 25, 2017 12:49 am

Thanks for the reply.
It is a small sample size, however, both have 1.5+ years with no reported problems, and 2 for 2 is the best of the possible outcomes.
If that continues, that would be positive evidence that Replacing OEM head bolts with ARP studs is worth a shot as an effective, possibly permanent repair, when combustion gasses and coolant cross contaminate their respective systems. I just wish there were a way to reliably know if it's due to head gasket (studs will work) or cracked head. (studs won't work)

A year ago, it was my doubt of this that prompted me to replace everything above the block deck, from intake filter to tailpipe with all new stuff.
All fluids and filters changed, New tires, In-tank pump, all the timing stuff, and all the stuff in my sig below. Plus all the stuff I've forgotten.
Transmission and torque converter are on standby waiting for hoist time to get them done.

I'm glad that I did all of it, as my level of anxiety is lower than had I gone with other options, and I like it more every time I drive it.

It's torquey, and light, and feels faster than it really is.
It's agile, but fragile, and somehow makes me feel protective of it.

But the money I've spent in doing all this stuff, is half again more than I paid for the rig to begin with.

If I had not of had my Jeep Blinders on, and had spent more time perusing this forum, I would like to think I would have made a better choice of project vehicle, and how to go about making it dream-worthy. There have been a dozen or so vehicles put up for sale that are far better deals than the one I chose. '

Even so, it's mine, and as my bro pointed out, had it not been for all of these problems, I wouldn't have had the opportunity to gain the knowledge that I have, about it.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 25, 2017 6:06 am

Quote:

I just wish there were a way to reliably know if it's due to head gasket (studs will work) or cracked head. (studs won't work)

The way I confirmed a cracked head on mine was:
1. remove the turbo and exhaust manifold
2. reconnect all coolant lines and top off with water
3. pressure test cooling system at 16psi, wait 20 minutes
4. look for water dripping out of the exhaust ports

After removing all the front timing components and intake manifold, with all the valves closed I repeated the pressure test. This time also looking into the intake ports.
I still only found water dripping out of the exhaust ports.

Also, dont forget that a leaking EGR cooler is another way for coolant to get dumped into the exhaust.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:52 am

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Even so, it's mine, and as my bro pointed out, had it not been for all of these problems, I wouldn't have had the opportunity to gain the knowledge that I have, about it.

Forced education!!!! :ROTFL:

You went from a novice to an expert because of your learned experiences... :wink:

Based on what you have shared and done, you probably know more about the fuel rail and /or sensors than most everyone else.

white smoke after fuel filter replacment

Who is online