Must be an odd coincidence, but in my search for another CRD there are a couple locally which have turned up with potential head gasket issues. They both run well and no extreme signs of a leaky HG during my test drive (no white smoke or engine issues). But still both owners have been very straight with me (I think). Telling me that the coolant level has been going down on each of them. And one of them has seen white smoke in the exhaust on a couple of occasions, but not all the time.

So a few questions here about best and worst case for these CRDs. Obviously the best case would be that there is a leaky hose clamp somewhere and that that is the cause of the disappearing coolant or the like (well probably not likely for the one who saw white smoke). Worst case perhaps is not only is the HG leaking but there is a crack in the head requiring a new one and maybe a crack in the cyl sleeve (although I doubt those engines could have run as smoothly as they did with a crack in their cyl wall, but I could be wrong). My thought is that most likely they have a HG issue, and I would be pulling the old head, having it checked out, replacing the HG and doing the rockers, TB and thermo at the same time. My fear would be that I'll need a new head or new cyl/piston or other major engine parts have been ruined.

I did pick up an exhaust gas check kit. You put the indicator fluid in a cyl which goes on the coolant tank (or in place of the rad cap). Run the engine til warm, then "pump" the air from the coolant tank thru the test fluid. (a bit hard to describe but easy to do) If exhaust gases are there, the fluid turn green-yellow. Supposedly works better on gassers or engines running rich, but supposed to work on diesels too. I tried this on one of the CRDs, and no signs of an exhaust leak into coolant. This was on a hot engine, so perhaps it only leaks when the engine is cold. I have not heard much about people using these testers here, what do folks think of them and their accuracy???

One other thing I noticed is on the coolant res, there was something that looked like dried foam/scum at the top near the cap. Not sure what that was, perhaps some oil getting into the coolant? It was stuck to the side of the res, above the level of coolant. If that is a clue to anyone.

I suppose the best test for a HG problem is to pull the glow plugs and see if any coolant shoots out when the engine is cranked after sitting overnite. Probably not going to get a chance to do that test on either of these. Is there any other way to access if the HG is leaking and if so, how bad it is?

I fully understand that HG job is not something one can fix quickly (have done HGs on VW TDIs and some gas engines). And I don't necessarily mind getting a car which is a project, as long as I have a good handle on what the project is and there are no surprises after I get it home and start working on it.

Any thoughts from the folks here about how to tell in advance what shape those engines are in?

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2006 KJ CRD

It sounds like you have accurately evaluated them based on what we know to be the typical failure method of the head bolts and the gaskets. It isn't the gasket that fails initially, these are laminated steel and don't blow out like that. But reducing the clamping force with weak bolts allows the 2500+ psi of combustion pressure into the water jacket, and that overpressurizes the system and the water works its way out of the overflow. The speed of the leak establishes how bad the gasket has gotten. The problem is the minerals in the water eventually dry thick enough in the layer of head gasket to allow the water to leak back into the cylinders... That is why you get the smoke in the morning / first startup.

So that one I would think is further along in the failure. If you are looking for a CRD that has everything already done (new head gasket, all new valves, full EGR delete, metal glow plugs, fresh timing kit) and is ready to go, I have one for sale that has only 30k on the motor. To do the same work on one of these, is $2000 just in parts on top of the purchase price. Be sure and factor that in as well as your time and capabilities (I obviously don't know what they are) to see if it is a good value at the price they are asking. According to the factory labor book, the full head gasket job is a minimum of 24 hours of labor, and that is supposed to be a technician that is familiar with Chrysler vehicles. Someone that hasn't taken one of these apart before will obviously take longer.

If you are interested in pictures of the one I have for sale, hit the email button below and we can go from there.

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Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
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