Unless you use a bottom tap, I doubt that you will be able to get a stud to bottom out completely in a blind hole. It will reach the partial threads area near the bottom and just tighten there. Even if you do use a bottom tap, you will still have to remove 1.5 to 2 threads off the end of the stud to allow it to bottom out completely because even bottom taps have 1.5 to 2 chamfered threads.
Stopping the stud install when you first feel the resistance of the threads taper will ensure the greatest amount of thread contact area. Never try to force a stud to the bottom of the blind hole.
From APR's Official Website:
APR wrote:
Do the head studs only go in hand, or finger tight?
Yes, cylinder head studs are installed only hand tight. Other than the use of an allen wrench on the hex broached into the end of the stud (to ease installation, not to apply torque), use no tools to seat them in the block. However, it is extremely important to ensure that the studs are fully bottomed out in the hole in the block and not hung up on damaged or corroded threads in the block preventing the stud from being fully seated. This is often indicated when the stud threads extend past the deck surface.
_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve