Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking

turblediesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 10, 2018 3:39 pm

Hey, my post disappeared or didn't make it in at all.

1. I paid $85.00 plus shipping from IDparts but they're going for $70. for a set now so how does $70. plus $10. for shipping sound?

turblediesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 10, 2018 3:48 pm

2. No advantage to 7v over 5v. OEM ceramic plugs ran 7volts so the 7v metal glowplugs were a drop in replacement. Dealers recommended changing from ceramic to 5v metal plugs with a modification to a glowplug control module and/or programming. I've been reading that folks are using the 5v plugs without any other changes or problems.

turblediesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 10, 2018 4:03 pm

3. No mods, as explained in answer #2.

4. I live in southcentral Alaska which is warmer than it once was. Normal winter temps run twenties in the daytime and teens at night with occasional dives below zero, -25°F, which can last for weeks. Hasn't done that for a couple winters. I've been reading, here, that the 7v plugs don't work well below freezing and the 5v are good to about 10°. The ceramic plugs worked better overall except for the engine cratering problem.

I've been stalled on my timing-belt-plus-mods project due to medical problems for awhile which is why they've been sitting here uninstalled. Getting back into it slowly now. You've done more to your jeep in the last year that I have in the last 4-5 years.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Dec 10, 2018 5:40 pm

CaptainDean wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Quote:

After a year I don't automatically remember where each one goes,

If you need help, holler, I can look a mine for a reference and can send pictures if needed. Probably others willing to help as well if needed...

I have been installing connectors today and re-routing the harness from where I initially thought it might go. Believe I have the back of the engine connected. Also identified and taped-back the EGR connectors.

I'm going slowly and trying to assure I have everything at the back connected before I install the front parts. Once the front is on I will have a much more difficult time finding things in the back.

I'm sure this connector will reveal it's place as I put the front stuff on. Until then, I have not remembered where this one goes. It is wrapped in the same bundle as the air conditioner clutch connector. (I have it lifted up and hanging from the alternator mount for the picture)

Dean.

That's the connector for the glow plug harness.

Access tip.

Keep the battery, battery tray, and alternator, and air filter, and filter box removed until after you have the rest of the engine, and cooling stack installed. This greatly helps with access to front and sides as necessary. Also, hook up crankshaft position sensor before attaching the exhaust, water pump, and turbo stuff. It's easier that way.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 718

Before I do anything drastic, I have removed the physical EGR system, but not removed the virtual EGR from the computer. Will it cause this?

Dean.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Dec 11, 2018 12:51 am

No Probably nothing to worry about.

That happened with mine, just getting all the gunk burned out and the extra cleaning and cylinder lube stuff burned out it looks like. I didn't pull down the whole bottom end like you did, so it took about 10 miles of hellish smoking before it burned it all out.

Does it smell like oil, fuel, or coolant?

You have no provent installed, so the temporary extra blowby through the rings will push more oil and fumes through the CCV system, and back to pre-turbo. Some of this will make it's way through the intake and charge-air system for a while.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Dec 11, 2018 12:57 am

take it out and drive it around. Let it come up to full operating temperature. Check to make sure the air is fully bled from the cooling system. It will probably clean it's self out, and the rings will probably take some time to fully seat, since you have all new ones? at least some new ones. Make sure to do some full throttle runs to help them seat, but not so long that any overheat if there are tight spots. I'm sure none of this is completely new to you. Get used to every sound so you know if and when something changes.

layback40 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 11, 2018 1:36 am

Great to see! :SOMBRERO:

The smoke will clear soon. :JEEPIN:

Main thing is don't have it siting at idle for long periods. Up & down in revs is good. You will have an exhaust system full of oil, so expect a little smoke till it burns out.

Is it running smooth? Having injector connectors swapped will cause smoke & very rough running. :oops:

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 718

Thanks for the feedback everyone !! Smoking being normal makes me feel better.

So far the smoke doesn't smell like anything. Not oil, not fuel, which leaves coolant. An Internet search said coolant would smell sweet -- this doesn't smell sweet, just clean exhaust but with tons of white fumes.

A YouTube video of removing the EGR mentioned pulling the MAF sensor from the air cleaner. He says this shuts down the EGR system. Initially I ran it without the boost tubing or air filter installed and it smoked less, but still white.

I'll go drive around someone else's neighborhood and see if the smoke clears some. I know too many people in my own neighborhood.

It does run smoothly so I don't believe I have any injector connectors switched. The temperature gauge indicated dead cold and that connector is not locking. I will have to steal that connector from the 2006 engine.

Tomorrow (Tuesday) I'll be back at work so I may not get to this until the weekend.

Dean.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Dec 11, 2018 7:08 am

Sounds like it's just a combination of humidity-condensation and CCV stuff.
I thought you said you left the EGR off as in uninstalled. Did I misunderstand?
Disconnecting the MAF will prevent normal operation of the EGR, but an EGR still in place can still leak.
IIRC either the MAF or the EGR being disconnected will throw a trouble code and a check engine light, unless you have a tune that ignores them.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 718

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Sounds like it's just a combination of humidity-condensation and CCV stuff. I thought you said you left the EGR off as in uninstalled. Did I misunderstand? Disconnecting the MAF will prevent normal operation of the EGR, but an EGR still in place can still leak. IIRC either the MAF or the EGR being disconnected will throw a trouble code and a check engine light, unless you have a tune that ignores them.

That's right, I did leave the EGR parts off, plugging the exhaust port, intake port, and coolant port & removed coolant Y hose connector. However, I have not installed a tune to make the computer ignore the EGR software. Apparently, disconnecting the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor from the air cleaner will also make the computer halt operation of the EGR software.

I'll do that and see if the smoke lessens.

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 718

Picked up some diesel fuel additives. Do you guys think any of these are better than the others?

My needs are to remove moisture, and have a normal additive in the fuel.

Rislone claims a "fuel stabilizer and water remover"
Power Services claims "protects against fuel filter icing"
Sea Foam claims "control moisture in fuels"

Dean.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Dec 14, 2018 2:52 am

AS far as I know, they are all good products, and are pretty comparable.

I use Power Service as that's what's added by local fuel distributors, and if I fill away from home, it will be comparable. White bottle is more for winterizing / anti-gelling, while Diesel Kleen (silver bottle) is more for warmer temps, keeping injectors clean and lubed, and injection pump lubed, and water dissipated all year.

There are other formulas for severely cold (arctic) operating temps, and 911 red bottle for fuel that's already gelling or gelled. If you go to any OTR truck stop, (any one I've been to lately) Power Service MASSIVELY outsells anything else.

SeaFoam is effective stuff in all of their products with a great reputation which is hard to earn and maintain. I know a LOT of people that use it and swear by it.

Rislone, Line of products such as Ring Seal, high mileage (motor honey) Compression Boost, Bars Leaks, etc, must be able to produce enough results against their claims to avoid false advertising claims. They've always, in my experience, been in the "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is" realm of operation, but I doubt it would be harmful at least. It's most likely comparable to Marvelous Mysterious Mineral Spirits with Red Dye Additive, as they list most of the same "benefits".

Honestly I don't think any of them will hurt at any reasonable concentration/dilution ratios, even others such as Lucas, Stanadyne, or Liqui-Moly, but as you can probably tell, I would not rely too heavily on the Rislone.

EDIT - Sorry about all the edits. It's late. I'm tired. :dead:

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 718

Thanks GordnadoCRD.

Your rundown on each of these products and more is thoroughly appreciated.

I'll use the Power Service up first, then use up the others. Afterward I'll continue to use Power Service.

Don't worry about the number of edits. I edit my posts too, even when I'm not tired.

Dean.

layback40 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 14, 2018 8:04 am

I would normally view additives as snake oil but your case is special as your fuel has been sitting in the tank for over a year.
Sea Foam is great for killing the dreaded black bugs. If you had it, your filter would be blocked by now.
I think you need to empty the tank as best you can & put a Jerry can of fresh fuel in to start with, or you may wish to initially run a line from a Jerry can to the filter & try running on fresh fuel from it. Dont need to worry about the return line.
Have you found much moisture in the filter?

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 718

layback40,

Apparently I had just filled the tank last year when the big bang happened. I pumped 9 gallons out through a new filter and still have a half tank.

No water in the filter. This condition lets me think it really was sucking air and water through the click-together connections.

Seems like a good idea to check the water trap daily until a couple tanks have run through.

Dean.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Dec 14, 2018 12:44 pm

CaptainDean wrote:

layback40,
Apparently I had just filled the tank last year when the big bang happened. I pumped 9 gallons out through a new filter and still have a half tank.
No water in the filter. This condition lets me think it really was sucking air and water through the click-together connections.
Seems like a good idea to check the water trap daily until a couple tanks have run through.
Dean.

Another very good reason for installing an in-tank fuel pump since it puts everything under pressure and will prevent any ingestion of air or water through the fittings per your description...

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 718

Finally finished.

Put some Power Service additive in the tank and drove it around a couple blocks, and down the road a mile. It ran good and sounded good. Temperature came up to normal and the radio still works.

Checked all the vital fluids and added a half gallon of coolant, and a half quart of transmission fluid. I imagine the air bubbles have been chased out of the engine and transmission, but I will check these again after the next short run.

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 718

THANK YOU !!!

TO EVERYONE THAT GAVE ME A GREAT DEAL OF HELP AND SUPPORT. EVEN TO THE PEOPLE THAT CHIMED IN TO ADD COLOR TO THE COMMENTARY.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH !! YOU ARE ALL SUPREMELY APPRECIATED !!

DEAN.

layback40 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2018 6:29 pm

I guess we can assume the smoke has all but gone.

Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking

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