I have an '05 Liberty CRD that has developed some issues and I hoped someone here would have some ideas for me. Some background info: It has around 215,000 miles on it. MAF has been unplugged since I bought it at 140,000 miles. I just did the timing belt and water pump about a month and a half ago. At the same time, I deleted the EGR via a Sasquatch Weeks 2 kit (which they no longer carry, from what I can tell). When I drained the coolant to do this it looked perfect. Clear and no evidence of corrosion or particles of any kind.

Last week we were on our way to West Virginia (lots of hills) and once we got to some of the longer grades it started exhibiting a fairly significant lack of power and started overheating on the uphills. We tried to take it easy but it got all the way to the red line a couple of times before we were able to get to a place we could stop. We were able to limp to an auto parts place and I put a new fan clutch on it. That helped some but didn't solve the issue. We managed to reach our destination and I then spent most of our vacation time trying to figure out the problem. I had a new thermostat overnighted from ID Parts and installed it but that still didn't help. The problem actually seemed to worsen to the point where it overheats on even a very mild uphill climb at low speeds, like 5-10 MPH. There is no evidence of oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. If the oil cap is opened with the engine running, oil literally sprays out of there as if there is extreme blowby. The engine has used a little oil in the past but not what I would consider significant. Maybe a quart or two in 10,000 miles. I'm thinking a possible blown head gasket. Perhaps the thermostat went bad and caused the initial overheating, which then caused the head gasket to blow? Any ideas? Thanks.

Edit: I forgot to mention, the power loss is noticeable immediately, even before it overheats.

gotta get the rpms up to increase the fan speed and water pump speed.
Pull the shifter down into 2nd or 1st so it will hold that gear.
And for driving through mountains/hills, push the OD-off button.
Also, turn the A/C-off, open up the windows, and turn the heater on full blast.


Yes, there is a lot of blowby, but most of that spray is from the spinning camshafts.
Not much you can do about the blowby.


I forget exactly at what temp, but at some point the ECU will start reducing power when things get too hot.
This will also happen if the transmission starts to overheat.

Was the coolant boiling when it was overheating?
Exactly how hot was it getting? (nearly impossible to know if all you've got is the factory temp gauge)
Is the check engine light on?
Have you scanned for codes?

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

What type antifreeze do you have in your coolant system? Should be G-05 [Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT)]
Are you getting any DTC's? (check engine light) and if so what are they?
The ECM may be putting the engine in "Limp Mode" which will greatly reduce engine power until it is shut off and restarted.
Overheating could be causing this?

Is your radiator stack good and clean, no bug or trash build up on the front of the AC condenser, or between the radiator and CAC (intercooler)?

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

On a mild uphill climb that's only a few hundred yards?

Are you saying that this is normal for one of these Jeeps that's running properly? Doesn't seem reasonable that a vehicle in good repair should need to run the heat like that under normal operating conditions, especially when it's not towing anything. I did do that when it started to get hot and it helped some but that certainly shouldn't be that way if it's working right.

I hope you're right. Seems like there was a lot more than normal.

What I'm saying is that it has immediate power loss, even after sitting and cooling down over night.

Yes.
I don't know exactly. Hot enough to boil the coolant and be noticeably hotter than normal when the hood is opened. I didn't have a way to measure the exact coolant temp.
Yes. As I mentioned, the MAF has been unplugged for as long as I've owned it which means the light has been on as well.
Not yet. I don't have a scanner. Probably have to trailer it somewhere to have it scanned.

That's what I have and as far as I could tell, that's what was in it before I did the timing belt and water pump.
I have yet to scan it.
It was shut off and restarted multiple times over the course of the few days that this occurred. I even disconnected the battery for a bit to see if it would reset something. My understanding is that the ECM will cut power if it's overheating.
The power is low all the time, not just when it's overheated.
It's not bad, although it wouldn't hurt to spray it off. I have a hard time believing that could be causing this extreme of a problem though. It can't even be driven a few hundred yards up a mild hill without starting to overheat.

Might be cheaper to just buy a scanner from the local auto parts store.

Something is definitely wrong.
Boiling coolant is definitely way too hot.
Maybe you have some blockage in the radiator.
Maybe you need a good cooling system flush.
A new radiator cap couldn't hurt.
Hopefully its not a bad water pump.

Turning the heater on is not something you should have to do. Its only for an emergency situation like you encountered.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Any specific type of scanner I should be looking for? The majority of my experience has been with mechanically injected engines, so no scanners involved. Just any OBD II scanner work? Trailering it to an auto parts store costs me nothing but time and a little fuel.
Those things don't explain the power loss at normal temps though, do they?

Is the electric cooling fan kicking in...low speed and high speed?
Fan spinning in correct direction?
Radiator cap replaced?
No air pockets in the system?
What engine oil are you running with?

Agree that the radiator or hoses could be blocked and Codes need to be pulled.

Hope you find the problem before damaging the engine!

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2002 Export CRD

It sounds like the loss of power may be either limp mode or perhaps loss of boost. If its limp mode it may not be resetting. For starters, plug the MAF back in temporarily and start it several times and idle a few minutes and see if it still has a CEL but I am sure it will. Really need the codes to help diagnose the system. The overheating should not be occurring anywhere near that degree even with no engine fan at all. It sounds like low coolant flow or obstruction in the system for the overheating problem. It would have to be a massive head gasket leak with fairly quick loss of coolant to cause this much problem though it is very likely there is a head gasket leak now with the overheating as the cause especially if you don't have ARP s already. With engine cold, remove the radiator cap then replace it, then start engine and let it run about a minute and cut it off. Then remove the radiator cap looking for any pressure release. If the reservoir is pressurized this indicates a head gasket leak though there are other tests. When engine running if you can see bubbling in the reservoir you have a massive leak. If you have a head gasket leak you should be loosing coolant relative to the degree of the leak anywhere from an ounce per thousand miles so to a whole reservoir in a couple hundred miles. It is also well known that even brand new fan clutches have been defective.

I think you have two different problems first the overheating that probably caused what has led to the underpowered condition. Perhaps impellers on water pump broke? Was the water pump the degraff replacement pump with the metal impellers or did it have plastic impellers and what brand? I guess its possible you could also receive a defective brand new thermostat.

Most OBDII scanners should read the codes or the torque pro type devices available for use with smart phones just make sure you have comparable phone ie android vs I phone.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

It works. I didn't know it had two speeds so not sure about that part.
The electric fan? Didn't know it was possible for it to spin backwards, but yes, it's spinning the right way.
Not yet. That's on the list for today.
I don't think so. I've used the pressure relief on the top of the radiator. Is there any other way to confirm no air in the system?
Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-40
I'll be pulling the radiator today and my brother is bringing his scanner. Hopefully figure some of these things out. The coolant system being blocked can't be the only issue though, I don't think. If it was it wouldn't be losing power till it overheated, right?
I hope it's not too late already. Really would like to not have to do the head gasket.

Now that you mentioned boost that reminds me. How much oil should there be in the boost hoses? I took the intercooler ends off in order to access the fan shroud when I did the fan and there seemed to be a fair amount of oil residue in them. Nothing built up but a good coating on the inside. The boost hoses are new and were installed when I did the timing belt/water pump/Weeks kit.
I'll give that a try.
Should have those later today hopefully.
No ARP studs yet. I don't think it's using coolant, as far as I can tell. With any other diesel, coolant leaking into cylinders generally causes white smoke. I assume it's the same with these. It's not making any white smoke, although it does seem to be making a bit more black smoke than it used to. Could that be coolant you think?
I'll give that a try as well.
The water pump is the Graf pump, with metal impellers, from ID Parts. The thermostat is the OEM one, also from ID Parts. The fan clutch is from Advance Auto.

Where are you located? Your signature does not say.
There may be a LOST member in your area willing to help in your diagnosis.

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Just changed that. I'm in north east Ohio, about an hour east of Cleveland.

At least one person has reported a failed graff water pump

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=85896

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U.S. Army Retired

Would the heat still work with a failed water pump? Maybe the water pump could be toast but the viscous heater is enough for the cabin heater to work?

Ran the scanner and came up with a few codes. This is what it said:

• P1140: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Control Circuit Open
• P0403: EGR "A" Control Circuit/Open
• P0299: Turbocharger/Supercharger "A" Underboost Condition
• P1252: Vacuum Reservoir Control Circuit High
• P1267: Glow Plug 4 Control Circuit Low
• P1265: Glow Plug 3 Control Circuit Low
• P0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor "A" Circuit Low

5 Pending Trouble Codes:
• P1140: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Control Circuit Open
• P0403: EGR "A" Control Circuit/Open
• P1252: Vacuum Reservoir Control Circuit High
• P1267: Glow Plug 4 Control Circuit Low
• P1265: Glow Plug 3 Control Circuit Low

I took the radiator out and flushed it. As I suspected, there was not the slightest hint of any corrosion or crud in it. I've drained the coolant twice now in the last couple months and both times the coolant was as clean and clear as it could be. There seems to be a higher than normal amount of oil in the boost hoses however. I'm not sure what's normal for these engines but a Cummins, which is what I'm used to, certainly doesn't have this much oil in the hoses under normal conditions. I've got pictures but I'm not sure how to post them.

These observations along with the P1252 may indicate a bad boost pressure solenoid. Cheap part to replace, I think. Not sure how that ties in to the overheating that seemed to come after the loss of power, though.

More info: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348

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2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax

Yup.

The p1252 code is causing the p0299.
The p0299 is causing the reduced engine power.

Also.
All liberty CRD engines have oil all through the insides of the boost hoses and intercooler. But it doesn't have to be that way. Install a Mann Provent.
It also wouldn't hurt to stick your fingers into the turbo inlet and try to wiggle the shaft.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Would either of those be related to the overheating issue, or just the power loss?
I did this today. Seemed nice and tight.

Is this the item you're talking about? https://www.idparts.com/vacuum-solenoid ... -3211.html