Transmission Fluid Level on Dipstick?

Rrusse11 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 09, 2020 6:14 pm

I read that some owners recommend the ATF level to be over the hot mark,
even when cold. After a major tranny refurbish and the addition of a cooler, I'm interested in opinions on the
matter, the whys and wherefores. I raised this with the shop that did the work, and they had no knowledge on
the matter. The addition of a large cooler has probably increased the overall amount by a liter or so.
Cheers!

turblediesel · **Posted:** Thu Jul 09, 2020 7:06 pm

My 2005 came with a too-long dipstick which comes in contact with the transmission pan and keeps it opening up on top unless it's ziptied down. And, that makes it read wrong.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

turblediesel wrote:

My 2005 came with a too-long dipstick which comes in contact with the transmission pan and keeps it opening up on top unless it's ziptied down. And, that makes it read wrong.

I did experience the same thing as you mention, I shorten mine a bit to prevent that, still pop out all the time !!!!!

Rrusse11 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 9:26 am

My dipstick, when appropriately aligned, does stay in, but it has to be just so.
After getting her warmed up Ive added a 1/2 quart of ATF4, bringing the level above the hot mark.
Hopefully not enough to hurt anything, frothing seems to be a potential problem, yet enough to take
care of the proclivity or tendency for the dipstick to be bent flat. With the additional capacity of the
oversized tranny cooler, I'm confident I'm within safe levels.

Setting out Tuesday with the teardrop in tow for a second attempt to get to Erie for a couple days.
One rather surprising improvement of all the tranny work is an increase in mpg of 15%. Just filled up
and got 23.2 for 300 miles, mostly around town. Nice!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 11:20 am

From an older thread on LOST:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=86485

Common Problem on Dipstick! wrote:

The problem is the dipstick is just a little bit too long and contacts the bottom of the transmission oil pan and that is what causes it to keep popping up. :banghead:

Simple solution, cut about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the end of it and remark markings with a file, or using some pliers, simply bend a slight lazy "Z" in the stick to make it a little shorter.

Rrusse11 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 12:37 pm

Thanks, I was wondering how much to cut off. I'm about 1/2" over the current length with the fluid level. I must have the orientation such that the stick is lying flat in the pan, so it doesn't pop up. If it bugs me, I'll shorten the stick and remark.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 12:52 pm

Rrusse11 wrote:

Thanks, I was wondering how much to cut off. I'm about 1/2" over the current length with the fluid level. I must have the orientation such that the stick is lying flat in the pan, so it doesn't pop up. If it bugs me, I'll shorten the stick and remark.

FYI, the above "fix" completely cured my ATF dipstick from popping up and that was several years ago.

Rrusse11 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 3:53 pm

After topping off the ATF to that 1/2" over the hot mark, a quick test drive confirmed that the 1/2 qt is a better level. Not quite so clunky shifting in to neutral at the lights. Just a tad
smoother shifting overall. Not a big difference, but a noticeable refinement.

The spring kit has made for better "definition" of the gears, motor and turbo response is a LOT better.
The cooler is doing its job, they bypassed the radiator system completely on the install. The shop told me that they got a 20 degree drop from the inlet to outlet.

Rightly or wrongly, I'm shifting the auto, and using the OD switch a lot. When queried, the proprietor allowed as how it wasn't necessary to shift into neutral at the lights, but had to admit that the tranny ran cooler in neutral. Old Mercedes Benz recommendation was to always shift their autos into neutral when idling for any length of time.

My feeling is that with towing, I'm better shifting at higher revs than letting the TCM make the decisions.
Jeff of Rocketchip did tune the TCM for higher levels, but with a load, I'll take over thanks. That low rpm diesel grunt and torque feels good, but does stress motor and gearbox IMO.
I'll post an update in a week or so after tackling the Appalachians, lol, again.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 4:18 pm

Rrusse11 wrote:

they bypassed the radiator system completely on the install. The shop told me that they got a 20 degree drop from the inlet to outlet.

FYI, the radiator on a Jeep CRD does not and has NEVER have a transmission fluid cooler in it. The factory transmission cooler is built into the lower 1/4 of the AC condenser.
If yours was running through the radiator, someone must have installed a radiator for a gas Liberty which I highly doubt.
Sounds like you shop misinformed you? Beware! :shock:

Rrusse11 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 7:14 pm

To be fair to the shop, there was a small tranny cooler already installed that had bypassed the original setup. Details as to exactly where or what had been bypassed was unimportant. They put all new lines directly from the transmission to the new cooler. I'm confident that they've done a good and honest job of it.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 9:00 pm

Rrusse11 wrote:

To be fair to the shop, there was a small tranny cooler already installed that had bypassed the original setup. Details as to exactly where or what had been bypassed was unimportant. They put all new lines directly from the transmission to the new cooler. I'm confident that they've done a good and honest job of it.

That's perfectly good but a little different than your original post which sent up red flags... :wink:

Rrusse11 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 10:53 pm

The shop explained to me that the usual setup was through the radiator, and showed me the original metal lines coming from the tranny, rusting. We discussed the need for replacement, and the ridiculous cost of the Jeep replacement lines. My reaction was buy some tube, get away from the hot exhaust, and then go to suitable hose. Then we discussed placement of the cooler in the bumper bar.
A couple days later, after getting the TQ and a suitable size cooler in, they simply went ahead and did the installation.
Removing the old cooler, and the mention that it had already bypassed the factory setup, my assumption was it was in the radiator. Guessing here that the very nice and quick cool from the AC is partially due to the fact that it isn't doing double cooling duty.

I was glad to have the shop show me what they were doing and why. There's a fine line though to telling them what I wanted, and then letting them do what they're good at. I know very little about auto trannies, or the Jeep, but learning. I'm pleased with the ,grill I did, and the shop gave their approval when I brought it around to show them. Like I said, the proof of the pudding will be in the test run this week. Provided all goes well, the next question is, do I paint it black?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2020 11:47 pm

Rrusse11 wrote:

The shop explained to me that the usual setup was through the radiator,

That is true for most gas engines, but not so for a lot of diesels and the Jeep Liberty CRD. My Dodge Cummins also does not have a transmission fluid cooler in the radiator from the factory, it came with an auxiliary remotely mounted transmission cooler OEM.
Agree, painting it black would look better...

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

WWDiesel wrote:

Rrusse11 wrote:

Thanks, I was wondering how much to cut off. I'm about 1/2" over the current length with the fluid level. I must have the orientation such that the stick is lying flat in the pan, so it doesn't pop up. If it bugs me, I'll shorten the stick and remark.

FYI, the above "fix" completely cured my ATF dipstick from popping up and that was several years ago.

I guess I didn't cut mine short enough.....

Jett · **Joined:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:07 am **Posts:** 250

My belief is that the Dipstick is jiggled out by the rotational shake of the engine, probably mostly at startup or shutdown when it jerks the most. If you want an easy way to keep it from popping up just take a pair of pliers and crush the tube a little bit and it will hold the dipstick in just fine.

Transmission Fluid Level on Dipstick?

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