05 Limited CRD Rebuild

03black · **Posted:** Sat Jul 11, 2020 1:48 pm

Mountainman wrote:

The OEM stats won't crack your head,they just fail open 95% of the time in under 50k miles. So they just waste fuel and money. Get an HDS stat...

Yeah its looking more and more that will be the route I take, just not in the cards right now. Guess I'll just put in the new OEM one and keep an eye on it till funds become available....sigh

Mopargarage · **Posted:** Wed Jul 15, 2020 3:34 pm

I'm working on rebuilding one right now. [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES][GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]

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03black · **Posted:** Thu Jul 16, 2020 1:01 am

Wow...I'm not going that deep into the rebuild....lol, I'm just trying to put humpty dumpty back together again from all the parts in the box that weren't labled

03black · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2020 7:41 pm

Ok small update for anyone that might be interested.

Got the replacement head and it got a clean bill of health from machine shop. Installed, on the block with new gasket and copper spray on all the surfaces. Installed, new APR head studs and torqued inner studs to 130 ft lbs, outer studs to 120 ft lbs (that was a fun and time consuming job

) All the nuts on the studs have 1/2 thread showing above the studs. For the EGR coolant outlet, I made my own plug by cutting down an M12, 1.25 thread pitch bolt and a tight fitting nylon washer for gasket and used thread sealant, it tighten down just fine on the head block.

Cleaned up mating surfaces on exhaust manifold and installed with new gasket and copper spray on manifold and new copper nuts. Next came the turbo charger. Again cleaned the mating surfaces and installed with new metal gasket. Tried to install it with the oil return line loosely installed but I had to take it back off just to get acces to the forward turbo charger nuts :banghead:

. Found I was able to get to turbo charger nuts from underneath the jeep vs. coming in from the top. Then reinstalled oil return line using a crap ton of extensions :cry:

Mounted the support bracket and then installed oil feed line with 2 new copper crush washers.

Decided to call it quits for the day since its 103F outside and my garage swamp cooler wasn't having any of that. Getting one step closer....

layback40 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2020 9:24 pm

03black wrote:

Ok small update for anyone that might be interested.

Decided to call it quits for the day since its 103F outside and my garage swamp cooler wasn't having any of that. Getting one step closer....

You probably have a few of us following your progress with great interest! Please keep the updates coming.

I have a 2007 CRD, very last of the KJ's with a broken piston. When the weather warms up here, currently 32f in the mornings, I may get motivated to do some more on it.
Good luck from Australia!!
Stay safe

03black · **Posted:** Mon Jul 20, 2020 8:50 pm

Thanks Layback40...i try my best.

So question....reading the SM it says to install the injectors in the exact position where they came from. We'll as stated earlier, the tech did not label anything so I have no idea what injector went where. I looked for the markings/numbers on the front timing cover and they are rubbed off. I also borrowed my auto hobby shop Snap-on engine scanner but it could not read the ECU for the injector placement.

So how's "critical" is it that I put these injector in the same position they are supposed to be in?

TIA

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 20, 2020 8:55 pm

It’s not super critical

03black · **Posted:** Mon Jul 20, 2020 9:11 pm

flash7210 wrote:

It’s not super critical

Sweet...That's good news. Hate for me to put it together, drive it to the dealer to have them scan it, drive it back home, and rearrange the injectors with new seals again.

layback40 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2020 6:34 pm

From what I have read, When the DBR 3 is plugged in, the injector serial numbers can be typed in. Make sure you have each injector number & what cylinder they are on. Its one of these 1 or 2% improvement things to have them right.

03black · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2020 8:14 pm

layback40 wrote:

From what I have read, When the DBR 3 is plugged in, the injector serial numbers can be typed in. Make sure you have each injector number & what cylinder they are on. Its one of these 1 or 2% improvement things to have them right.

Unfortunately, I don't have access to a DRB III or anyone that I know that has one to borrow. I have rented one before, but was only for 3 days, so if I rent one again , I want to maximize its use (change tire size, get PIN, and make another key remote) since I have 2 KJ's and its only for 3 day rental. Just wanted to get this one running well enough before I proceed forward.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

geordi wrote:

That is NOT an injector puller part - at least not for this engine. The injectors can't come out with being side-loaded (where the hard line connects) and the Miller tool - if the dealer monkeys even had that - doesn't use that part anywhere either.

Not sure what that is or where it came from, but it wasn't from the CRD.

When the head arrives from the UK, take it to a machine shop and have them pressure test it. Then replace all the valves in it with brand new from IDparts. The VM Specialist is a "breaker" or boneyard over there, and they have said to several of my customers that they were "replacing all the valves" before sending a head.... And what arrived had valves that were NOWHERE CLOSE TO NEW. They had been cleaned, sure.... But cracked at the bases, covered in hard deposits, and obviously worn. I trust that they have parts that will fit. But not anything beyond that, b/c they have been claiming this "test engine" nonsense for at least 4 years now. I don't think there's that many test engines to be had, but this engine IS used in the black cabs and in minivans over there, so there are LOTS of used engines running around to pull from. Caveat Emptor.

If it's M21 tread it's probably a injector puller for this engine !

All bosch injectors pulls straight up with a hammer puller once the solenoid is remove :shock:

https://www.sitebox.ltd.uk/prodimages/S ... or_act.png

Why don't you do some research before you start yapping !!

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2020 11:04 pm

PZKW108 wrote:

If it's M21 tread it's probably a injector puller for this engine !

All bosch injectors pulls straight up with a hammer puller once the solenoid is remove :shock:

https://www.sitebox.ltd.uk/prodimages/S ... or_act.png

Why don't you do some research before you start yapping !!

I still don't know why you dislike me so much, but I'll answer you anyway because that is the professional thing to do.

That image is not this engine. That tool is NOT the Miller injector removal tool. That slide hammer would NOT fit under the hood to remove the injectors on this engine.

But the most important part - How would someone recreate the calibration that would be lost by removing the solenoid, especially when the springs and balls are under pressure in there? The injection shop that I trust said that people SHOULD NOT disassemble these injectors, as that can alter their performance or introduce contamination.

But you just keep right on suggesting things that might damage an engine, and I'll be there to help the owner clean up the mess afterwards.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

geordi wrote:

PZKW108 wrote:

If it's M21 tread it's probably a injector puller for this engine !

All bosch injectors pulls straight up with a hammer puller once the solenoid is remove :shock:

https://www.sitebox.ltd.uk/prodimages/S ... or_act.png

Why don't you do some research before you start yapping !!

I still don't know why you dislike me so much, but I'll answer you anyway because that is the professional thing to do.

That image is not this engine. That tool is NOT the Miller injector removal tool. That slide hammer would NOT fit under the hood to remove the injectors on this engine.

But the most important part - How would someone recreate the calibration that would be lost by removing the solenoid, especially when the springs and balls are under pressure in there? The injection shop that I trust said that people SHOULD NOT disassemble these injectors, as that can alter their performance or introduce contamination.

But you just keep right on suggesting things that might damage an engine, and I'll be there to help the owner clean up the mess afterwards.

I didn't suggest anything other than: If one end of this thing is m21 tread this is most likely a Bosch injector removal tool !!!!!

Many other company have use bosch injectors, so such tool would not be unique to this engine.

I don't dislike you, but you're just a big sloppy mouth !!!!

Now let me know when you will be a Certified Mechanic ! :dead:

And stop putting words in my mouth FFS !!!! :furious:

layback40 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 22, 2020 7:28 am

03black wrote:

Unfortunately, I don't have access to a DRB III or anyone that I know that has one to borrow. I have rented one before, but was only for 3 days, so if I rent one again , I want to maximize its use (change tire size, get PIN, and make another key remote) since I have 2 KJ's and its only for 3 day rental. Just wanted to get this one running well enough before I proceed forward.

I hear you!
Having the injectors in the wrong order should not stop it from running ok.
You have about a 1 in 24 chance of getting the correct order assuming they all have different calibration.
I for one hope you get it right or the injectors all have the same calibration!!
Fingers crossed!!

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

PZKW108 wrote:

If it's M21 tread it's probably a injector puller for this engine !

All bosch injectors pulls straight up with a hammer puller once the solenoid is remove :shock:

https://www.sitebox.ltd.uk/prodimages/S ... or_act.png

Why don't you do some research before you start yapping !!

PZKW108 wrote:

I didn't suggest anything other than: If one end of this thing is m21 tread this is most likely a Bosch injector removal tool !!!!!

Many other company have use bosch injectors, so such tool would not be unique to this engine.

I don't dislike you, but you're just a big sloppy mouth !!!!

Now let me know when you will be a Certified Mechanic ! :dead:

And stop putting words in my mouth FFS !!!! :furious:

Count this as a warning: knock the attitude off. It's beyond antiquated at this point, and both unnecessary and unwanted. It's also not up for discussion.

And now back to the regularly-scheduled thread already in progress.

03black · **Posted:** Wed Jul 22, 2020 8:57 pm

layback40 wrote:

I hear you!
Having the injectors in the wrong order should not stop it from running ok.
You have about a 1 in 24 chance of getting the correct order assuming they all have different calibration.
I for one hope you get it right or the injectors all have the same calibration!!
Fingers crossed!!

Well those are better odds than me winning the lottery !! :ROTFL:

Guess we'll see what happens when it comes time to fire this thing up. Sucks only to be able to work on it for an 30min after work or wait till the weekend....uggg

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Thu Jul 23, 2020 5:00 pm

The injector codes are to allow the ecu to adjust what they call the fuel injector trim. As mentioned they give a very slight efficiency increase. It definitely will not stop your Jeep from running well without them programmed. Keith from GDE had a good explanation a few years back.

03black wrote:

layback40 wrote:

I hear you!
Having the injectors in the wrong order should not stop it from running ok.
You have about a 1 in 24 chance of getting the correct order assuming they all have different calibration.
I for one hope you get it right or the injectors all have the same calibration!!
Fingers crossed!!

Well those are better odds than ,e winning the lottery !! :ROTFL:

Guess we'll see what happens when it comes time to fire this thing up. Sucks only to be able to work on it for an 30min after work or wait till the weekend....uggg

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03black · **Posted:** Sat Jul 25, 2020 10:29 pm

Ok I made some good progress today, maybe some of the smart people on here can give me a quick sanity check to see if I missed anything....

Started the day off with installing all new rockers and lifters. They had a 3 day oil bath (was supposed to do this part 3 days ago...lol) and used assembly lube on all the rocker to spring contact points. Then used the same assembly lube on all the cam lobes (the cover was previously cleaned of all the gunk and I didn't want to install it dry) as well as the bearing surfaces. Probably didn't get any of the lube in them but at least I tried. Turned them a few times to try and work some of the lube in. Reinstalled the timing pins.

Installed a new valve cover gasket and that's when I noticed I only had 1 of the oil galley dowels. Looked through all the nuts and bolts and couldn't find the second one. So I decided to make one out of a steel coupling nut. Forgot what size it was but the center hole was close the correct size. Took out the dremel tool and grind down the "points" so that the entire nut was round and fitted I to the head and valve cover nicely. Then I just cut it to length using the original one that I had. Believe it will work and do what its intended function and shoot oil up into the cam.

Tried to lower the cover onto the head using some home made guid pins but they where to tall and I kept hitting the valve cover on the transmission dipstick tube. So removed the guide pins and put myself in the engine bay (don't ask how) and after a few attempts I was able to lower the cover onto the head without disturbing the lifters. Used 2 bolts on opposite corners to tighten the cover down evenly. Installed the remaining bolts and torqued them down to 16ft lbs in the factory sequence. 16ft lbs seemed a bit light to me so I torqued them to 25ft lbs....goodn'tight.

03black · **Posted:** Sat Jul 25, 2020 10:47 pm

Next I installed the injectors..installed new crush washers (coated the mating surface with copper spray) and new o-rings. The body of the injector got a light coat of anti-size.
Loosen the fuel rail and fuel lines and reinstalled them making sure the "ball" seat was seated onto the injector. Tighter both sides of the lines down and torqued the crows foot retainers down to 20ft lbs.

Installed the CCV puck and routed the wire harness back over the engine. Cleaned both cam sensor and MAP sensor and attached the corresponding plugs. Made sure to NOT mix up the cam plug with the #4 injector plug. Insattled the rest of the injector plugs.

Installed new thermostat housing with corresponding gasket

Now for the timing belt...
Installed rear timing cover with all new gaskets and grommets. Put blue lock tite on all bolts. Installed idler pulleys and torqued them to 33ft lbs. Loosely installed cam sprockets and tensioner pulley. Lined up the fuel pump timing mark and installed new belt. Once I was able to get the belt on without moving the fuel pump timing mark, tighten the tensioner pulley per the FSM. Locked down the cam sprockets and tighten the bolts to 80ft lbs. Removed the timing pins and rotated the engine by hand 3 or 4 times and made sure I could insert the intake and exhaust pins easily...must have done something right

Rechecked/readjusted the tensioner pulley again, rotated the engine again to check...seems good at this point.
Installed the front cover with blue lock tite on all the little bolts.

Wheww... long day...time to rest and hopefully get the rest finished up tomorrow.
BTW...why does it say my IP address is blocked? I had to type this all up on my phone...

03black · **Posted:** Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:24 pm

She's alive. :pepper:

BUT not without a few problems

1st...have fuel coming out of the heater element plug on the fuel head. So ordered a new update version with new wire harness...ugh

2nd and I think more severe, I have the check engine light on. Autozone scan gives me the following codes:
P0234 turbo overboost
U0146 lost communication with gateway A
P1267 glow plug 4 control circuit low
P1265 glow plug 3 control circuit low
P1263 glow plug 2 control circuit low
P1261 glow plug 1 control circuit low
P0683 glow plug control module to PCM communication circuit
P0107 MAP sensor low
P0045 turbo boost control solenoid circuit open
P1189 inlet air pressure sensor circuit low
P0113 intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high input
P0118 engine coolant temperature circuit high input
P2294 fuel pressure regulator 2 control circuit
P0193 fuel rail pressure sensor high input
P0299 turbo underboost

In addition, while listening for any strange noises I found the turbo vacuum manifold solenoid was buzzing, so ordered a new one
Jeep seems to be running rough and has no getup when starting from a stop. I'm hoping that is because of the bad solenoid causing the slow start and roughness. Runs nothing like my F250 6.7L or my old Audi A3 TDI. As for the rest of the codes, do you experts think its because the battery was disconnected?

Thoughts?
TIA

05 Limited CRD Rebuild

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