Hey Guys,

Has anyone installed the ID Parts belt and pulley for viscous heated and clutch fan delete? If so, can anybody show a pic with how the new belt is routed, or at least describe the routing? Also, other than connecting the water lines from the viscous heater, is any other work required?

Below are the links for the new belt and pulley:

https://www.idparts.com/serpentine-belt ... 14171.html

https://www.idparts.com/serpentine-belt ... 14170.html

Thanks a lot!

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

What the IDParts pulley is allowing you to do is remove the Viscous Heater and the mechanical fan & hub pulley according to their Web listing.

What I provide is a mount & pulley to replace only the Viscous Heater but still allows keeping the mechanical fan and reuses the OEM serpertine belt. No other parts required to purchase.
No complex modifications are required, it is simple upbolt and remove the Viscous Heater and bolt my replacement mount and pulley in its place.
You simply remove the hose off the thermostat going to the Viscous Heater, and then remove the other hose off the Viscous Heater, shorten it about 1 inch and then reatach it to the thermostat using OEM clamps. The pulley is mounted to a strong billet aluminum mount with a grade 8 bolt and nut. Comes with complete written install procedures w/pictures.
PM or email if interested, I have one in stock ready for shipment. Hope to have some more built soon.

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Right, and what they offer sounds interesting for folks like me, that have an e-fan and do not use that mechanical fan pulley for anything other than a belt pulley. The mod also creates more space for the efan. I do not know where exactly the pulley mounts, but I will ask them on their sticky.

Also, I sent you a PM, your mod is awesome for situations where you want to go back to stock fan, so it brings more options to the table. I one am not planning to go back to stock fan, but who knows, more options are always better, lol. Thanks for the response!

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I'm interested too !

Several years ago, I relocated my tensioner, removed the fan hub and cut it down (2 minutes with my electric grinder) to where it has just 2 bolt holes remaining, and the threaded hole for the idler pulley. I also completely removed the VH. This worked well for about 7 years, and gave me tons of clearance for FFD's largest electric fan.
Now, with WW diesels excellent VH bypass, I think the same can be accomplished without relocating the tensioner.
Additionally I spent 5 minutes filing the tensioner to fit the other location on the front of the block, and I took the slight effort to cut the old belt, routed it in the new position, locked it together with visegrips, and then measured it. The 2 different progressions of this mod each took me about 10 minutes in the auto parts store parking lot, because each time I got what I deemed as the correct belt length on the second try.

Long story short, take the less expensive route and don't over estimate the difficulty of changing belt sizes.

Oh, I forgot one thing. You need to use a bigger idler pulley on the fan hub base that you cut. A couple of other lost members have detailed this in other threads, but its about a 5" generic gates pulley, and cheap.

Lastly, (I promise!) I don't recommend relocating the tensioner, as I had the slightest bit of belt slip (less crank contact), but only if I started the engine in cold weather and immediately drove away (block heater, but icy cold pulleys....) The belts lasted for about 3 years regardless of the slip.
Good luck with whatever method you use. But, beware offroad slow crawling up grades, as the mechanical fan really helps the transmission cool under 25 mph or so.

Good advice Mountainman,
It is always better when possible to keep it simple, this allows the use of OEM or readly available parts and / or serpentine belt.
That way, if you need a belt while on a trip, you simply walk into a parts store and ask for the OEM belt.


I have one Viscous Heater delete available, hoping to get enough parts to build two more this weekend.
Certain parts are getting harder and harder to source, seems some suppliers are out of stock or on backorder.

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Well, once you figure out the belt length, you just make note of it and you're set. I didn't even do that, but the numbers on the belt get harder and harder to read as they age...

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete