CRD wont start

Mrgabesir · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:21 am **Posts:** 74

A couple days ago I loaded her up and turned the key, engine cranked, but no ignition. I primed it under the hood (no lift pump still), still nothing. I let her sit and tried again with warmer weather, cranks over, combusts for a few turns, then dies again. No codes, imagine she has to run for that. Diagnosis protocol?

03black · **Posted:** Thu May 01, 2025 9:02 pm

Sounds like it could be the crank position sensor. Common problem with these engines. Get a quality ones as the cheap ones tend to do the same thing.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu May 01, 2025 11:01 pm

Mrgabesir wrote:

A couple days ago I loaded her up and turned the key, engine cranked, but no ignition. I primed it under the hood (no lift pump still), still nothing. I let her sit and tried again with warmer weather, cranks over, combusts for a few turns, then dies again. No codes, imagine she has to run for that. Diagnosis protocol?

“NO START” OR HARD START CONDITION (General Overview)
(Engine spins over with starter but does not start)
ELECTRICAL:
1. Weak battery, low voltage. voltage level dropping below minimum required voltage for ECM to function properly. ~8 volts or less at ECM)
2. Crankshaft Position Sensor faulty (loss of signal (If no CPS signal is present, the ECM will not allow engine to start/run)
3. Camshaft Position Sensor faulty (loss of signal)
4. Wiring harness chaffing on top of or around engine compartment causing short to ground, broken wires, or cross connection between circuits.
*Check all wiring harnesses closely in the engine compartment for shorts or broken wires.
5. Bad or broken system ground connection behind left headlight on top of fenderwell or above master cylinder on firewall under hood rubber cowl seal.
6. Wire chafing problem behind the fuel filter assembly causing short to ground, broken wires, or cross connection between circuits. (06 Models Only)

FUEL RELATED:
1. **Air in fuel - leak on suction supply to CP3, stopped up fuel filter, etc... (Inadequate fuel supply to CP3 will prevent injection pump from supplying
proper fuel pressure to fuel rail)
2. Cascade/Overflow Valve (on top of CP3) Regulates lubrication to internal parts of the injection pump and regulates the fuel pressure to the fuel quantity
solenoid valve on the back of CP3 injection pump. Also, controls the amount of fuel being returned to the fuel tank via the fuel return line.
3. Fuel Pressure Solenoid (on end of fuel rail) aka: Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve The fuel pressure solenoid controls and maintains the rail pressure
constant along with a control current provided by the engine control module (ECM) Leaking fuel pressure solenoid (on end of fuel rail). There should be no
fuel coming out of the solenoid return line while cranking the engine. Perform the fuel rail pressure solenoid leak quantity test to determine if it is faulty. If
the injectors check good, the fuel pressure solenoid should hold 870-1450 psi when unplugged during cranking.
4. Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor (on side of fuel rail) A faulty pressure sensor could be giving the ECM incorrect pressure information and prevent the engine from starting. Fuel Injector(s) (not getting a signal to inject fuel or leaking by not allowing fuel rail pressure to build up to required operating pressure.
a. Purchase or rent a set of NOID lights that plugs into the injector(s) connectors and this will show by indication if the injector(s) is receiving a signal from the ECM to inject fuel.
b. Monitor rail pressure and see if you have over 3600 PSI, or 1.0 volt, during cranking. If not, one or more internally leaking injectors can cause a hard start. See injector section in FSM for further diagnostics. No smoke from the tailpipe after about 10 seconds of cranking means no fuel is getting into the cylinders. Buy Genuine Bosch OE Injectors
5. Fuel Quantity Solenoid (on back of CP3) The Fuel Control Actuator solenoid valve is a pulse-width modulated valve that controls the amount of fuel sent or delayed to the high-pressure pump elements inside the high-pressure pump. If all of the above tests pass and rail pressure is still below spec, try unplugging the Fuel Quantity Control Valve (FCA) on the CP pump and see if the rail pressure increases, if not, the CP3 injection pump could be bad.
6. If all of the above tests pass and rail pressure is still below spec, try unplugging the Fuel Quantity Control Valve (FCA) in the CP pump and see if the pressure goes up. If not, the CP3 injection pump could be bad.
**No. 1 cause of No Start Condition!

KalleXX · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2025 2:27 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Mrgabesir wrote:

A couple days ago I loaded her up and turned the key, engine cranked, but no ignition. I primed it under the hood (no lift pump still), still nothing. I let her sit and tried again with warmer weather, cranks over, combusts for a few turns, then dies again. No codes, imagine she has to run for that. Diagnosis protocol?

“NO START” OR HARD START CONDITION (General Overview)
(Engine spins over with starter but does not start)
ELECTRICAL:
1. Weak battery, low voltage. voltage level dropping below minimum required voltage for ECM to function properly. ~8 volts or less at ECM)
2. Crankshaft Position Sensor faulty (loss of signal (If no CPS signal is present, the ECM will not allow engine to start/run)
3. Camshaft Position Sensor faulty (loss of signal)
4. Wiring harness chaffing on top of or around engine compartment causing short to ground, broken wires, or cross connection between circuits.
*Check all wiring harnesses closely in the engine compartment for shorts or broken wires.
5. Bad or broken system ground connection behind left headlight on top of fenderwell or above master cylinder on firewall under hood rubber cowl seal.
6. Wire chafing problem behind the fuel filter assembly causing short to ground, broken wires, or cross connection between circuits. (06 Models Only)

FUEL RELATED:
1. **Air in fuel - leak on suction supply to CP3, stopped up fuel filter, etc... (Inadequate fuel supply to CP3 will prevent injection pump from supplying
proper fuel pressure to fuel rail)
2. Cascade/Overflow Valve (on top of CP3) Regulates lubrication to internal parts of the injection pump and regulates the fuel pressure to the fuel quantity
solenoid valve on the back of CP3 injection pump. Also, controls the amount of fuel being returned to the fuel tank via the fuel return line.
3. Fuel Pressure Solenoid (on end of fuel rail) aka: Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve The fuel pressure solenoid controls and maintains the rail pressure
constant along with a control current provided by the engine control module (ECM) Leaking fuel pressure solenoid (on end of fuel rail). There should be no
fuel coming out of the solenoid return line while cranking the engine. Perform the fuel rail pressure solenoid leak quantity test to determine if it is faulty. If
the injectors check good, the fuel pressure solenoid should hold 870-1450 psi when unplugged during cranking.
4. Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor (on side of fuel rail) A faulty pressure sensor could be giving the ECM incorrect pressure information and prevent the engine from starting. Fuel Injector(s) (not getting a signal to inject fuel or leaking by not allowing fuel rail pressure to build up to required operating pressure.
a. Purchase or rent a set of NOID lights that plugs into the injector(s) connectors and this will show by indication if the injector(s) is receiving a signal from the ECM to inject fuel.
b. Monitor rail pressure and see if you have over 3600 PSI, or 1.0 volt, during cranking. If not, one or more internally leaking injectors can cause a hard start. See injector section in FSM for further diagnostics. No smoke from the tailpipe after about 10 seconds of cranking means no fuel is getting into the cylinders. Buy Genuine Bosch OE Injectors
5. Fuel Quantity Solenoid (on back of CP3) The Fuel Control Actuator solenoid valve is a pulse-width modulated valve that controls the amount of fuel sent or delayed to the high-pressure pump elements inside the high-pressure pump. If all of the above tests pass and rail pressure is still below spec, try unplugging the Fuel Quantity Control Valve (FCA) on the CP pump and see if the rail pressure increases, if not, the CP3 injection pump could be bad.
6. If all of the above tests pass and rail pressure is still below spec, try unplugging the Fuel Quantity Control Valve (FCA) in the CP pump and see if the pressure goes up. If not, the CP3 injection pump could be bad.
**No. 1 cause of No Start Condition!

Hi!

I got an engine problem as following:
- It starts but stops after about 3 minutes. It will not restart soon after. Often it only starts the day after, but stops again after around 3 minutes.

The problem happened when it was time for MOT in April this year.
I thought it was bad fuel since the Jeep has been inactive for a long time. I only started the engine now and then (every 3 -6 months).
I replaced the fuel filter and it run about 45 minutes before the engine stopped.
I replaced the fuel filter again, but it stopped again after a few minutes. I replaced the fuel filter one more time, no change!
When installing the fuel filter I was careful about having the seals properly seated.
When inspecting the replaced fuel filters, I could not see any dirt that could clogg them. They are clean.

What I have changed since then:
- Installed new Bosch original Fuel quantity solenoid.
- Installed new Bosch original Rail pressure solenoid.
- Installed the sasquatchparts.com lift pump kit. When doing that I saw no problem with the fuel. The tank and fuel was clean.
The lift kit works, I hear the pump running after power on and the primer gets bone hard. I see no fuel line leaks.

What I will replace this week:
- Crank shaft position sensor. Bosch original is ordered.

I made a quick check of the fuel return from the injectors, and there is no obvious difference between them (idle engine speed, 800 rpm). Small quantity of diesel is pouring out.
The battery is Ok, no problem cranking and it has always been maintained with a smart battery charger (Ctek).

The idle fuel pressure is 50 000 kPa (500 bar) and this is good.
When the engine is running, there is no problem reving it, it all seems good, then it suddenly dies!

I am getting a bit desperate now as I think you understand.

Any ideas what the cause is?

Best regards
KalleXX
PS: I live in Sweden.

03black · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2025 5:17 pm

If its only running for a few minutes, then there might be a problem with the anti-theft system. Is the red light on the instru-cluster blinking?
You may need to have a new key programed to the Jeeps SKIM and ECU modules.

Otherwise another idea, did you bleed all the air out of the fuel with the bleeder screw on the fuel filter head? Its good that you installed the lift pump, but you still need to bleed the air out of the system after the fuel filter change. Just turn the key on, let the pump run, and with a wrench open the bleeder screw up a little to let out the air till a steady stream of fuel comes out. Have a rag handy to catch the fuel or use a small hose to fit over the bleeder screw for the fuel to flow into a bottle.

KalleXX · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2025 6:36 pm

03black wrote:

If its only running for a few minutes, then there might be a problem with the anti-theft system. Is the red light on the instru-cluster blinking?
You may need to have a new key programed to the Jeeps SKIM and ECU modules.

Otherwise another idea, did you bleed all the air out of the fuel with the bleeder screw on the fuel filter head? Its good that you installed the lift pump, but you still need to bleed the air out of the system after the fuel filter change. Just turn the key on, let the pump run, and with a wrench open the bleeder screw up a little to let out the air till a steady stream of fuel comes out. Have a rag handy to catch the fuel or use a small hose to fit over the bleeder screw for the fuel to flow into a bottle.

Thank you for the answer!
There is no issue with the anti-theft system.

I did not bleed the air out :shock:

. I did som bleeding now and there was lots of air coming out, still some left.
I'll continue tomorrow (night here in Sweden now) and let you know the result.

br
KalleXX

KalleXX · **Posted:** Tue Aug 05, 2025 2:05 pm

KalleXX wrote:

03black wrote:

If its only running for a few minutes, then there might be a problem with the anti-theft system. Is the red light on the instru-cluster blinking?
You may need to have a new key programed to the Jeeps SKIM and ECU modules.

Otherwise another idea, did you bleed all the air out of the fuel with the bleeder screw on the fuel filter head? Its good that you installed the lift pump, but you still need to bleed the air out of the system after the fuel filter change. Just turn the key on, let the pump run, and with a wrench open the bleeder screw up a little to let out the air till a steady stream of fuel comes out. Have a rag handy to catch the fuel or use a small hose to fit over the bleeder screw for the fuel to flow into a bottle.

Thank you for the answer!
There is no issue with the anti-theft system.

I did not bleed the air out :shock:

. I did som bleeding now and there was lots of air coming out, still some left.
I'll continue tomorrow (night here in Sweden now) and let you know the result.

br
KalleXX

Ok, I bleeded all air out of the fuel lines. It started this morning and died after almost 2 minutes!
Later today, I installed a new Bosch camshaft position sensor. No change

I think I am in the hell hole right now.

What can be the cause?

By the way, I have the improved primer/filter head in metal.

Br
KalleXX

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 05, 2025 10:10 pm

If it started and ran for 2 minutes, that tells you it will run.
Have you replaced the crankshaft position sensor? They are notorious for crapping out during the warm up cycle of the engine when they start going bad.
Most times they never set any DTC's when this happens.
If it cranks and runs when its cold, but craps out after a few minutes of running during engine warmup, that is a very common indication of a failing crankshaft position sensor.
You can purchase one at AutoZone in their Duralast line, it is a reboxed Bosch OEM sensor.
Duralast Crankshaft Position Sensor, Part # SU8492

IDParts also carries a Standard Motor Products crankshaft sensor.

Best advice is to purchase a Bosch OEM sensor if you can find one, they are higher quality parts. Don't waste your time with Dorman or Chinism knockoff sensors.

KalleXX · **Posted:** Wed Aug 06, 2025 1:54 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

If it started and ran for 2 minutes, that tells you it will run.
Have you replaced the crankshaft position sensor? They are notorious for crapping out during the warm up cycle of the engine when they start going bad.
Most times they never set any DTC's when this happens.
If it cranks and runs when its cold, but craps out after a few minutes of running during engine warmup, that is a very common indication of a failing crankshaft position sensor.
You can purchase one at AutoZone in their Duralast line, it is a reboxed Bosch OEM sensor.
Duralast Crankshaft Position Sensor, Part # SU8492
...

Good advice!

I'll install a new, hopefully a Bosch, crankshaft position sensor. The one left to replace.
I come back (a couple of weeks) when it is done.
2025-08-09: Update: I ordered a BOSCH 0281002434 from eBay Germany. Delivery expected next week.
2025-08-30: Update: THE JEEP RUNS OK!! The crankshaft position was the culprit. Took 6 hours to replace it, rounded hex screw did not help. It was more or less the last resort!

Br
KalleXX

CRD wont start

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