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 Post subject: another broken part on my KJ
PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 11:30 pm 
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so it seems every time im forced to take my KJ to a shop they break something. i do EVERYTHING myself if i can but i had to take it to have the tires mounted today(MTRs!!). so after i waited for almost 2 hrs the took my jeep in and came right back and said "uh we broke 2 of ur studs" :roll: i really wasnt pissed though since the stock lug nuts are crap and i could see this comming for a while. they offered to fix it for 60 bucks and i said no way!! i told them to just finish mounting the tires and i would replace the studs myself. so i drove it a few miles to my buddy garage after i picked up the studs and new lug nuts and 45min later they are better than new. this is just weird cause like i said i never take my jeep and let someone else do anything to it. the only other time it has been in a shop was the have the ball joint recall fixed and guess what they broke the axle nut :roll: oh well at least the tires look good :lol: im going to test them out on the trail tomorrow :twisted:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 11:58 pm 
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I usually dont even let people put tires on mine. I just take them the rims and tires and tell them to change them out.

I stand and watch them do the alignment just to make sure they dont do anything stupid. Usually works out good.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:12 am 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
I usually dont even let people put tires on mine. I just take them the rims and tires and tell them to change them out.

I stand and watch them do the alignment just to make sure they dont do anything stupid. Usually works out good.


yeah me too but today i had to drive the jeep there cause i had somewhere on that end of town i needed to be. heck i have even mounted them myself before but since we are on spring break i couldnt use the shop at the college. they even have an alignment machine there so i do that myself too. i avoid taking any car i have ever owned to any shop. one day ill have all the tools i need in my garage and wont have to do this anymore. untill then ill use my buddys shop and the college for sure!!! THIS IS THE LAST TIME ANYONE WILL EVER WORK ON MY JEEP!!!!!

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custom skids and rock rails ; Surco roof rack w/ hi lift mounted
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:15 am 
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OEM Jeep wheel studs are bad at breaking after you remove and install the lug nuts alot.I have 3 break on me,replaced all my wheel studs with Napa wheel studs,much better quality then the OEM ones.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:21 am 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
OEM Jeep wheel studs are bad at breaking after you remove and install the lug nuts alot.I have 3 break on me,replaced all my wheel studs with Napa wheel studs,much better quality then the OEM ones.


yeah by the looks of them ur right. i got mine at auto zone but the look to be way batter than OEM. im going to replace all my lugs in the next day or so since i think they played a big role it it. i cant belileve jeep put these thing on there their lig nuts are CRAP. almost all the caps on mine have came off. also i do take my wheels off alot so i guess i migh just replace all the studs since im on spring break now.

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Rusty's coil lift w/ Rancho RSX shocks & 3 ring clevis
custom skids and rock rails ; Surco roof rack w/ hi lift mounted
pioneer cd/aux with Zune mounted on dash; uniden cb with 4' K40 antenna
xeon lights; grill inserts; black wheels; 245/75/16s MTRs
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:23 am 
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I don't understand why they didn't replace them for free. When I was an electrician, if we broke something or damaged something, we replaced or repaired it for free since it was our fault. I sure as heck wouldn't ever take my vehicle to that shop again if they pull that kind of crab. Sounds like a shady company.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 1:02 am 
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501 wrote:
I don't understand why they didn't replace them for free. When I was an electrician, if we broke something or damaged something, we replaced or repaired it for free since it was our fault. I sure as heck wouldn't ever take my vehicle to that shop again if they pull that kind of crab. Sounds like a shady company.


no man its really not like that. i would if it was really their fault but it wasnt. its a combo of this bad lug nuts and bad studs and the fack that they were striped going on the studs. heck i cant believe it hasnt happend sooner. it only cost me a few bucks to fix and was no big deal. now if it was something major or like when the stealership messed my jeep up i might have but this guy was prety cool about it. its not their fault jeep is cheap when it comes to lug nuts and studs. now for someone that couldnt do it himself then yeah maybe make them fix it but heck i didnt want them to do anything else and i knew it wouldnt cost me 10 bucks to know it was done right!!

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Rusty's coil lift w/ Rancho RSX shocks & 3 ring clevis
custom skids and rock rails ; Surco roof rack w/ hi lift mounted
pioneer cd/aux with Zune mounted on dash; uniden cb with 4' K40 antenna
xeon lights; grill inserts; black wheels; 245/75/16s MTRs
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 1:51 am 
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Yea, I replaced all my lugs this past christmas with solid lugs. Looks alot better. :)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 2:02 am 
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True , True , But some time we don't have the toys available to us, although I have the knowledge I haven't a lift. So if someone else screws something up I want them to foot the bill. Some times I agree if I see the top Mechanic trying to figure out which end of the screw driver does the work . I happily pull my ride out and wish them a nice day. If I had a garage and a lift I would be a happy camper I could do all my own work and have the tools to do it.
Give me a metal shop, a lathe, and a paint booth And then get outta my way it's play time :shock: :P :twisted: :wink: 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 11:53 am 
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Yea, crap happens. But I am sorry.....if they broke it....I would expect them to pay for it or at least just charge you for the studs etc and not the labor.

I hate taking mine in for anything. I have more tools than I even want to use in the garage but of course no lift so I have spent 4 hours in the driveway doing a 2 hour job if only I had a lift available. Then there's always the time everything goes wrong and after extra parts chasing, interruptions, and more beer, it takes all day.

Then there's always the stuff I can't do or it's too cold out or something (and I'm not 18 anymore) and I have to take it in and keep my fingers crossed.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 1:49 pm 
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Sucks about the lugs but, congrats on the MTRs! Make sure to post some pics of the wheelin' when you get done testing them out. :D

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:21 pm 
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If they broke it, they should provide superior customer service and replace them for free. Now, if you had stripped them prior, then no, they should not.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:54 pm 
Yep, if they broke coming off...then it's not their fault. if they broke because they got cross-threaded while going on...then their fault.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 12:23 am 
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Dje Ryu wrote:
Sucks about the lugs but, congrats on the MTRs! Make sure to post some pics of the wheelin' when you get done testing them out. :D


yeah i got to test the wheels out today!!! ill post pics in the pics section later. the tires were great!! i went on a killer trail (5-6 difficulty) that when i got my jeep i said that i wanted to build it to one day run. my dad has rolled 2 Jeeps(CJ7s) and 1 Toyota pickup (both modded) there so needless to say this place is crazy. most rigs always come out with some damage but beleive it or not nether i nor the Land Rover i was with had any damage. i was impressed with the KJ big time. this is one trail that a lift, skids, good tires, and especially rock sliders are a must!! lockers dont hurt and someone or u really should have a winch as well. heck my better half even went with me today and actually liked it :shock: this trail reminds me alot of tellico and the best part is that is aroudd 5 min from my house. i didnt get alot of pics though but i did get a few. i wish i would have got more and of some of the harder stuff but that just gives me an excuse to go back :twisted:

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Rusty's coil lift w/ Rancho RSX shocks & 3 ring clevis
custom skids and rock rails ; Surco roof rack w/ hi lift mounted
pioneer cd/aux with Zune mounted on dash; uniden cb with 4' K40 antenna
xeon lights; grill inserts; black wheels; 245/75/16s MTRs
#1281 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2967585/1


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 1:27 am 
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Found out first hand what you mean about the crappy Jeep lug nuts today! While doing my lift today, we had one break off that cheap metal coating around the nut and it stripped the nut. I had to go buy a nut remover (or whatever they are called) and also had to buy a new 4 way since I bent the crap out of the tire iron that came with my Libby while trying to remove the junk lug nuts. I ended up buying 20 new Lugs like Jeepjeepster has. I can see why the autoshop had problems with them!

I take back what I said about the autoshop!!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 11:38 am 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
Yea, I replaced all my lugs this past christmas with solid lugs. Looks alot better. :)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Image


I've broken a total of 6 lugs in the last two tire rotations. Thanks for the link Jeepster, I think it time to order some solid ones.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 2:33 pm 
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The "Good customer Service Moto" states that if they broke it they should fix it.

But in real life...

They probrably know that the chrysler stock studs suck so the use the strongest impact wrench they have in the shop, give it to a guy who wants to be on a NASCAR pit crew and say have at it. Knowing full well they can bust a couple and PRESTO!!! another revenue generator that most house wives and most guys will fall for and not even know it.


NEVER USE AN IMPACT ONJ YOUR LUG NUTS! always use a torque wrench. keeps rotars (and for the 02's) and rear drums from warpping too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:58 pm 
That isn't fair at all to say, Woody. Those lugnuts should NOT be torqued to more than 115 ft lbs, so regardless of how powerful the impact is, it SHOULD NOT break taking it off. Putting them on is another story...but there is FAR too much legal risk involved to do anything damaging, let alone intentionally!

Just because you don't think highly of people in a field with which you're not familiar does NOT make them all dumb apes.

I said it before and I'll say it again...if it broke coming off, it isn't their fault. if it broke going on, it is.

oh, and ROFL@not using an impact on your wheels. are you serious? in 1983 when everything had studs pressed into the rotors, yes, that would be a SLIGHT issue, but nowadays, IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN. however, most shops use torque sticks, or just plain know how to use an impact.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:16 pm 
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oh, and ROFL@not using an impact on your wheels. are you serious? in 1983 when everything had studs pressed into the rotors, yes, that would be a SLIGHT issue, but nowadays, IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN. however, most shops use torque sticks, or just plain know how to use an impact.
Those "torque sticks" are a joke,the twist on them varies greatly depending on the impact used.Say your using a 10 year old snapon(about 300lbs-ft max),you'd be just a little over the rated torque #'s,using the newer IR Titanium impacts(700+lbs-ft forward,1000+lbs-ft reverse) will almost triple the torque even with the torque sticks.Oh and yes you can warp rotors even now days by over-tightening the lugs,can also warp the rims,hubs,and axles flanges.

I do use impacts to remove lugnuts(mostly my cordless electric,350lbs-ft of torque in reverse),I also use them to put them on.I thread the lugs on a few threads by hand,then use my cordless to zip them on,but only till the lug touches the seat,maybe 30lbs-ft of torque max,then I torque them by hand.I run steel rims so I can get away with a higher torque then the alloy rims,I torque my lugs to 110-115lbs-ft or torque,aftermarket studs(high tensile steel)and lugs.On a full charge my cordless impact will torque bolts to about 100lbs-ft(with no extensions).From years of wrenching I have a good feel for when a bolt is properly torqued(my arm is calibrated :wink: ),though I do use a torque wrench when rebuilding engines,tranny's,t-cases,and diff's.I never use a impact to assemble/disassemble and engine,tranny,t-case,or diff's anyway.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:18 pm 
tjkj2002 wrote:
Quote:
oh, and ROFL@not using an impact on your wheels. are you serious? in 1983 when everything had studs pressed into the rotors, yes, that would be a SLIGHT issue, but nowadays, IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN. however, most shops use torque sticks, or just plain know how to use an impact.
Those "torque sticks" are a joke,the twist on them varies greatly depending on the impact used.Say your using a 10 year old snapon(about 300lbs-ft max),you'd be just a little over the rated torque #'s,using the newer IR Titanium impacts(700+lbs-ft forward,1000+lbs-ft reverse) will almost triple the torque even with the torque sticks.Oh and yes you can warp rotors even now days by over-tightening the lugs,can also warp the rims,hubs,and axles flanges.

I do use impacts to remove lugnuts(mostly my cordless electric,350lbs-ft of torque in reverse),I also use them to put them on.I thread the lugs on a few threads by hand,then use my cordless to zip them on,but only till the lug touches the seat,maybe 30lbs-ft of torque max,then I torque them by hand.I run steel rims so I can get away with a higher torque then the alloy rims,I torque my lugs to 110-115lbs-ft or torque,aftermarket studs(high tensile steel)and lugs.On a full charge my cordless impact will torque bolts to about 100lbs-ft(with no extensions).From years of wrenching I have a good feel for when a bolt is properly torqued(my arm is calibrated :wink: ),though I do use a torque wrench when rebuilding engines,tranny's,t-cases,and diff's.I never use a impact to assemble/disassemble and engine,tranny,t-case,or diff's anyway.


the cheesy impacts used by most tire shops, though, will barely make 200 ft lbs, so the torque sticks are more than adequate protection from overtorquing. Yes, you CAN overtorque a wheel, very easily, but 99.999999% of the time, that isn't a problem.


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