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oh, and ROFL@not using an impact on your wheels. are you serious? in 1983 when everything had studs pressed into the rotors, yes, that would be a SLIGHT issue, but nowadays, IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN. however, most shops use torque sticks, or just plain know how to use an impact.
Those "torque sticks" are a joke,the twist on them varies greatly depending on the impact used.Say your using a 10 year old snapon(about 300lbs-ft max),you'd be just a little over the rated torque #'s,using the newer IR Titanium impacts(700+lbs-ft forward,1000+lbs-ft reverse) will almost triple the torque even with the torque sticks.Oh and yes you can warp rotors even now days by over-tightening the lugs,can also warp the rims,hubs,and axles flanges.
I do use impacts to remove lugnuts(mostly my cordless electric,350lbs-ft of torque in reverse),I also use them to put them on.I thread the lugs on a few threads by hand,then use my cordless to zip them on,but only till the lug touches the seat,maybe 30lbs-ft of torque max,then I torque them by hand.I run steel rims so I can get away with a higher torque then the alloy rims,I torque my lugs to 110-115lbs-ft or torque,aftermarket studs(high tensile steel)and lugs.On a full charge my cordless impact will torque bolts to about 100lbs-ft(with no extensions).From years of wrenching I have a good feel for when a bolt is properly torqued(my arm is calibrated

),though I do use a torque wrench when rebuilding engines,tranny's,t-cases,and diff's.I never use a impact to assemble/disassemble and engine,tranny,t-case,or diff's anyway.