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 Post subject: RE:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:46 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Skinall, PA. N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
Thanks to every one that has given imput to this problem. I just got word from my mechanic that my front drive shaft is bad. Luckily this is only going to cast me $360 versus replacing the transfer case / front axles. I should have my Lib back by Friday evening, just in time to get some trail time in over the weekend. Once again, thanks to everyone.

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Ernie
N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
L.O.S.T. # 5275
2003 KJ Sport
Bright Silver metalic
Tow package
3.7 with manual trans.


2005 Chevy Silverado Z-71 Crew
5.3 V8, auto trans, Hankook Dynapro MT 285/75/17, stainless step tubes, Eagle cap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 4:49 pm 
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The whole driveshaft is probably not bad. It is most likely a bad u-joint. $360 is way to much to replace a u-joint. Don't remove your CV and drive around. The fluid will leak out and dirt will go in. If the driveshaft bolts on and does not go into the t-case, unbolt it and drive around. Take just the d-shaft to the mechanic or a driveline shop for a lot less.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 2:11 pm
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
trac95ker wrote:
The whole driveshaft is probably not bad. It is most likely a bad u-joint. $360 is way to much to replace a u-joint. Don't remove your CV and drive around. The fluid will leak out and dirt will go in. If the driveshaft bolts on and does not go into the t-case, unbolt it and drive around. Take just the d-shaft to the mechanic or a driveline shop for a lot less.


The front d-shaft has CV's not U-joints. The boot probably ripped and dirt got in and caused the CV to fail. You could rebuild the joints, but its probably easier to replace it....or find a used one at a junkyard.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2006 11:53 pm
Posts: 25
Glad to hear they pinpointed the problem with the drive shaft and that you'll be back on the road soon. Wasatch15, I think you have an great recommendation about replacing the stock front drive shaft with a heavy duty one from Tom Wood's or some other place. I've seen your other posts on the issue and am impressed that you were able to do the install on the custom drive shaft yourself. I'm in the Southern California area -- anyone know of a good shop that can do that type of work?

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2003 Jeep Liberty - Limited
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:46 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Skinall, PA. N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
The shop I took it to has a drive shaft specialist next door to them, he is going to rebuild it with HD parts and give a 3 year warrenty with it. I have not had the chance to see the wore out parts yet, but they say they are destroyed. I have a feeling that over the rest of this year, I am going to go ahead and replace the front axles with HD ones also. I guess I can't complain about spending $360 on this fix, while in the shop they are replacing the t-case fluid and the front diff fluid as well as checking out the rest of the underside of my rig. they already said the rest of my bots are in great condition.

_________________
Ernie
N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
L.O.S.T. # 5275
2003 KJ Sport
Bright Silver metalic
Tow package
3.7 with manual trans.


2005 Chevy Silverado Z-71 Crew
5.3 V8, auto trans, Hankook Dynapro MT 285/75/17, stainless step tubes, Eagle cap.


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