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 Post subject: Auxiliary Lights And Backup Light Wiring
PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 9:59 am 
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I'd Like to wire up My roof rack lights to the high beams, but still be able to use a switch to turn them on/off if needed.

How would I wire that up?

Also, I want to wire up some auxiliary reverse lights, but be able to use them when the vehicle is not in reverse as well(parked, off, etc. for work lamps).

how would i wire that?

For the roof rack, I will be running 2 switches with 2 lights each, 1 relay per set.

For the Backups, i will run 1 switch to 2 lights with 1 relay.

Any help is appreciated, I'm fairly talented when it comes to wiring electronics, but I'm not sure where/how to put the wires into the KJ to make them work like this.

I can generally follow wiring diagrams, so if anyone has them, by all means post them!

Thanks
Andy

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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:25 pm 
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Here's a link for how to wire the backup light two different ways so you can use with a separate switch or use a certain lighting circuit i.e. backups on the Jeep. You just need to find a wire that feeds the highbeam and the other that feeds the backups and then wire from there so you have both options.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=39402
NOTE: I believe it is illegal in Ohio to have any other fog lights on when the high beams are on. That's why all factory fog/driving lights automatically go off when you hit the high beams.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 5:02 pm 
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For some reason the law only states that the fogs have to go off...

It states that you are allowed to use driving lights/spots, but doesn't say they have to go off...

:?

wierd...

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2006 Voodoo Edition
EVIC
Franken/Jacked
265/75 Duratracs
Skid Row Skids
RED LED Overheads and Footwells
Custom TJ Bumper
4x 100w Hellas on rack
Nokya Hi-Watt headlight bulbs
Blacked Stockers
Thrush Welded muffler
K&N Filter
Custom Boiler Rack

Soon:More Lights, ARB/Winch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 10:49 pm 
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common sense would come into play and they should be off :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 11:22 pm 
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I know, but if it isn't directly stated, it isn't necessarily legally binding
:lol: :lol: :lol:

in all reality though, the factory fogs on my explorer never turned off unless i pressed the button. :shock:

and most of the time no one is going to be around when you are using your high beams anyways. :wink:

victimless crime at that point :twisted:

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2006 Voodoo Edition
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265/75 Duratracs
Skid Row Skids
RED LED Overheads and Footwells
Custom TJ Bumper
4x 100w Hellas on rack
Nokya Hi-Watt headlight bulbs
Blacked Stockers
Thrush Welded muffler
K&N Filter
Custom Boiler Rack

Soon:More Lights, ARB/Winch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 2:32 am 
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Do I understand correctly that you want the fronts to have a switch that will:

1) turn them on (under any circumstance)
2) turn them off (under all circumstances)
3) turn them on whenever the brights are on

Also with the reverse lights, I assume you want a switch that will:

1) turn them on (under any circumstance)
2) turn them off (under all circumstances)
3) turn them on whenever in reverse

In these cases, you'd want SPDT switches with the ON-OFF-ON configuration. There would be three terminals on it, you'd put your brights (or reverse) power to one, battery to one, and your wire to your relay solenoid to the third. Switching up or down from center would feed the relay power from the appropriate place. Off would never feed it any power.

Be careful not to get (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch configurations, or any combination that has parenthesis. Parenthesis indicate momentary function, meaning it will return to the off position as soon as you let go of the switch.

I'm just wiring mine so that I have to turn the front and rear lights on manually. I have accessory power feeding my switches, which fire the relays. I decided that I really didn't have the need to switch it to brights or reverse mode, as I would not ever leave it there. Just shifting from park to drive would flash your reverse lights...no thanks. Variety of switches that do what you want are limited as well. Simple ON-OFF types are abundant in options.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 2:40 am 
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Since you are using 100 W lights (8.3 amps) I'd put one light per relay, no matter what your kit comes with. 10 amp fuse and a single relay with 14 ga wire will allow you to upgrade to 15 amp fuse for 150 watt bulbs if you ever upgraded. I know you mentioned that to me yesterday.

If you run two lights (16.66 amps) you'll need a 20 amp fuse, and depending on your wiring, if you use 14 gauge wire you could burn the wire before blowing the fuse. Not worth using 12 gauge to save 2 relays as relays are alot cheaper than wire IMO. 12 gauge would also be small if you upgraded, you'd have the same problem if running two 150's on 12 ga off the same single relay.

I know some places say you can run more on certain sizes, but you have to consider run length, number of bundled conductors, having them stuffed under carpet, etc. I'd just make it easy on yourself and do 14 ga with a relay for each light.

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Aluminum Gas Tank Skid -- Radiator Skid -- Front Strut Shims
Coming Soon: Rear Bumpers with lots of options


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 7:37 am 
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Probably not a bad idea to run one relay per light, I think i already told you the problem I'm having with the lights I already have without a relay, and i think they are only running about 8 amps.

Also, i hadn't thought about using SPDT, i used to use those all the time wiring up stuff for my guitars. I was making these diagrams in my head trying to wire everything in parallel with SPSTs and all of them were coming out looking like electric spaghetti.

Where is a good place to buy relays, I know they can be fairly expensive depending on where you go.

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L.O.S.T.# AM091337
2006 Voodoo Edition
EVIC
Franken/Jacked
265/75 Duratracs
Skid Row Skids
RED LED Overheads and Footwells
Custom TJ Bumper
4x 100w Hellas on rack
Nokya Hi-Watt headlight bulbs
Blacked Stockers
Thrush Welded muffler
K&N Filter
Custom Boiler Rack

Soon:More Lights, ARB/Winch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 8:25 am 
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Never shopped here, but found some:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-070

I'd buy bosch / tyco as their supposed to be higher quality than the generic $1 ones. I'd advise you buy a couple extra too, as you may need to replace them on occasion and should be able to easily find uses for them if not.

I bought mine from a vendor we use at work, turns out they were more expensive ($5) there.

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2005 KJ Renegade
Fabrications for sale: Aluminum Roof Rack (See Page 9)
Aluminum Gas Tank Skid -- Radiator Skid -- Front Strut Shims
Coming Soon: Rear Bumpers with lots of options


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 8:37 am 
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Yeah, I've used the Bosch ones before (before tyco bought them :lol: )

My dad had a bunch of them in his garage from wiring up all the custom lights on my Harley

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L.O.S.T.# AM091337
2006 Voodoo Edition
EVIC
Franken/Jacked
265/75 Duratracs
Skid Row Skids
RED LED Overheads and Footwells
Custom TJ Bumper
4x 100w Hellas on rack
Nokya Hi-Watt headlight bulbs
Blacked Stockers
Thrush Welded muffler
K&N Filter
Custom Boiler Rack

Soon:More Lights, ARB/Winch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 2:58 am 
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I'll sell you a wiring kit...

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 579#469579

Actually the assembled portion of the kit was very fun for me, once I tracked down and ordered all the wire, fuses, blocks, relays, etc. Finding the parts was the pain. I imagine crimping a gazillion wires is not everyones idea of a fun saturday night though.

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2005 KJ Renegade
Fabrications for sale: Aluminum Roof Rack (See Page 9)
Aluminum Gas Tank Skid -- Radiator Skid -- Front Strut Shims
Coming Soon: Rear Bumpers with lots of options


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