Powertrax No-Slip/Detroit True-Trac

krazz1e · **Posted:** Thu May 25, 2006 11:28 pm

the truetrac is greater than the trackloc (factory limited slip) because you can get the TT to lock up each wheel 50% of the power and therefore get "real-locker" perfromance. On top of that it's gear driven not clutch so it is much much quiter and very very reliable. No special oil, it actually likes plain old 80w90.

JFortier777 · **Posted:** Fri May 26, 2006 12:10 am

So where can I buy a Powertrax and how much do they run?

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Fri May 26, 2006 8:38 am

Look at "Troy's Toys" Thread for all your location buying needs.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Fri May 26, 2006 5:53 pm

krazz1e wrote:

tt is > than tracloc. It will lock up 50/50%.

and when you lift a wheel ?

the1jferg · **Posted:** Fri May 26, 2006 8:24 pm

JT asked: "and when you lift a wheel ?"

When one wheel is lifted the other will have plenty of power if you apply slight E-brake. I do it all the time. It just ain't as easy where my chevy truck e-brake and release handle are located. The KJ is nothing more than playing with the center handle with the button pushed. I only wish I could put one in my version KJ Dana 35.

It takes a little practice (less on a center e-brake handle :lol:

) but rules. the device makes steering in the mud much easier than this no-slip at least on a 4x2.

moose · **Posted:** Thu Jun 01, 2006 11:00 am

the1jferg wrote:

... We know its not a true "Locker" Its about as close as you are going to get though without stepping up to the ECTED or Electrac which are LSD until you flip the switch...

FYI, the folks at Auburn told me it would be about a year until they get he ECTED into a Chrysler 8.25 :cry:

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:22 pm

I have been reading up about the Truetrac and see that most say a little e-brake and it will get you through a lot of situations. It seems to me that if the traction control were to apply the brakes to a wheel it would give the same results or better. Does anyone have experience with the truetrac, trac-lock or other LSD in an 06 KJ or other vechicle that has electronic traction control while in 4WD? If so does it work like I am thinking it should?

KJ-BOL · **Posted:** Sat Jul 08, 2006 9:10 am

Reading all above..... so, what I gather from here is:
If you have the money to spend, get the ARB? - how about if I saved enuf to get lockers - any type - for both front & rear? Whick way I go if money is no problem?

white04kj · **Posted:** Sat Jul 08, 2006 9:59 am

KJ-BOL wrote:

Reading all above..... so, what I gather from here is:
If you have the money to spend, get the ARB? - how about if I saved enuf to get lockers - any type - for both front & rear? Whick way I go if money is no problem?

Welp, if you've got the cash, get the ARB for sure, at least for the rear. It's 100% selectable, which means you keep the stock road manners until you flip a switch. However, from what I've gathered you not only pay a ton for the locker, there's also lots of install costs. You'll need a compressor, an air tank, and all the air lines for it. If I had the money though, I'd definitely have one.

As for the front, some people have them, but I've also heard people who are worried about the additional stresses placed on the aluminum diff housing by the ARB. I don't know if it does place the additional stress on it, but you may want to look into it.

Robert Bradbury · **Joined:** Wed Mar 22, 2006 10:37 am **Posts:** 132

I keep hearing the powetrax is a PITA around town, and noisy too. Well I have a powertrax reciently installed in mine and
it doesn't impress me. I'm getting some major noise, ie. a kick in the pants clunk ( like someone just hit the diff with a sledge hammer) especially in a left had turn. When it was really new it actually disengaged completely a few times.

They told me to put some mileage on it so the sincros will mesh better but it doesn't seem to be changing much after a thousand kilometers or more. Is this normal or do I have a dud ?

FarmDiesel · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2005 8:49 am **Posts:** 132

What powertrax do you have? A No-Slip, or a Lock-Right?

Lock-Rights are old-school and have far worse manners. No-Slips are newer tech and are supposed to be much better.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Thu Jul 13, 2006 4:19 pm

DarbyWalters wrote:

True-Trac up front is definitely the way to go...is preset from the factory with load...acts almost like a locker without fooling it with the brake trick.

The No-Slip in the rear is awesome offraod but it a little hard on the carrier bearings over the long term on road.

I think a cheap/trick setup would be the True-Trac up front and the Auburn LSD in the rear. Would cause no problems on road and would be great offroad. If you have an auto tranny, it would be very easy to tap the brake and engage the rear LSD.

The main concern I have for the locker ( arb excluded ) is that if you loan your KJ to anyone that doesn't understand what a rear locker can do...they drive in the rain and end up swapping ends before they know it.

How is the no-slip hard on the carrier bearings? Where it puts so much pressure on them when it locks when its not supposed to?

jason thompson · **Posted:** Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:49 pm

white04kj wrote:

KJ-BOL wrote:

Reading all above..... so, what I gather from here is:
If you have the money to spend, get the ARB? - how about if I saved enuf to get lockers - any type - for both front & rear? Whick way I go if money is no problem?

Welp, if you've got the cash, get the ARB for sure, at least for the rear. It's 100% selectable, which means you keep the stock road manners until you flip a switch. However, from what I've gathered you not only pay a ton for the locker, there's also lots of install costs. You'll need a compressor, an air tank, and all the air lines for it. If I had the money though, I'd definitely have one.

As for the front, some people have them, but I've also heard people who are worried about the additional stresses placed on the aluminum diff housing by the ARB. I don't know if it does place the additional stress on it, but you may want to look into it.

it does not require all that you think it does
when i ordered min it came with every thing i ordered the locker only or the smaller compressor it will not air up tires only made for the lockers but it is only $165 not $230 if you order the small compressor and the locker every thing you need will be in the 2 boxes including hoses swiches cut off swich every thing is there
i want to say that when i ordered mine it was about $850 inc ship for a TJ dana 30
i installed the compressor under the driver seat (almost no noise) and i ran the air line to the diff the macanic only charged me $225 to do the rest of the install

so lets review
locker and compressor $850
installation $225
driving up and over stuff others only dream about $priceless

Robert Bradbury · **Joined:** Wed Mar 22, 2006 10:37 am **Posts:** 132

FarmDiesel wrote:

What powertrax do you have? A No-Slip, or a Lock-Right?

Lock-Rights are old-school and have far worse manners. No-Slips are newer tech and are supposed to be much better.

I have the no slip locker only in a month now.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Fri Jul 14, 2006 11:05 am

Jeepjeepster wrote:

How is the no-slip hard on the carrier bearings? Where it puts so much pressure on them when it locks when its not supposed to?

When it engages on the street (high traction)...like when applying power when cornering it puts stress on the carrier (sorry, not the carrier bearings) more than an open or LSD diff would. Just the nature of the beast.

I loved mine in my 2002 KJ but I would probably not do it again. I would go DTT or ARB or the Elock when it comes out.

Powertrax No-Slip/Detroit True-Trac

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