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 Post subject: Fuel additives
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 11:41 am 
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I have just picked up my new CRD and am trying to get a handle on fuels, additives, bio, etc. Finding Bio here in Tucson isn't the easist task so I would also like to investigate additives....are they really effective, what does it add to milage, wear, etc., and naturally to the overall fuel cost.

'preciate any feedback that is available.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:54 pm 
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Will anyone speak up if they are using additives?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:40 pm 
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Bovie wrote:
Will anyone speak up if they are using additives?
Hello guys, yes in my opinion the use of additives like Primrose or PowerService is must unless you are useing B2<>B20 and even then a Cetane booster may still be advised. I have used in in MB's, VW's and now the Liberty.

Edit: Had a friend that use to run the electron microscope lab at CMU before taking another position at a different university tell me that the carrier fluid in PowerService was B100 (100% biodiesel) with with various chemicals to boost cetane level or stablize the fuel. His other comments were if the fuel you buy has been treated with a cetan booster by the retailer then all the PowerService or other ceetane boosters in the world will not raise the cetane value more the 6 points above what it was refined, be it 40 (46) or 50 (56) cetane.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:01 pm 
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I have used Stanadyne and PowerService. Don't expect huge mpg gains or anything, but it is cheap insurance.

For example, let's say a 32oz bottle of power service gray is $6. I normally use 8oz per tank full in the jeep, so it would add $1.50 per tank or about 8 cents per gallon to your fuel cost for the added insurance. Also, in the winter I use the white bottle which has an anti-gel additive in it. Stanadyne is a little more expensive at $3.00 per 8oz bottle, so basically double the above numbers if you wish to use stanadyne.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:43 pm 
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Never have been a fan of mechanic-in-a-can type stuff but I currently use stanadyne. I look at it this way, engine manufacturers will not cover damage due to improper or contaminated fuel. This leaves you to fight it out with your local fuel station over the 2+ grand repair bill if something goes wrong. In this time of change with lsd,ulsd, and bio you just never know what your going to get. We are at the fuel distributors mercy when it comes to getting clean and properly lubricated fuel. I will use lubricity additives for at least another year and see how the fuel situation is going. If nobody has a problem without using additives then I will stop using them. For now, I consider them my insurance policy.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 8:49 pm 
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I agree I think I will start running Stanadyne with the next tank.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 8:55 pm 
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Bovie wrote:
I agree I think I will start running Stanadyne with the next tank.
I use the PowerService because I can buy at every truck stop and Wal-Mart in the country, not so the Stanadyne. That said there is probably not a nickel's worth of difference in the two products.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:03 pm 
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onthehunt wrote:
Never have been a fan of mechanic-in-a-can type stuff but I currently use stanadyne. I look at it this way, engine manufacturers will not cover damage due to improper or contaminated fuel. This leaves you to fight it out with your local fuel station over the 2+ grand repair bill if something goes wrong. In this time of change with lsd,ulsd, and bio you just never know what your going to get. We are at the fuel distributors mercy when it comes to getting clean and properly lubricated fuel. I will use lubricity additives for at least another year and see how the fuel situation is going. If nobody has a problem without using additives then I will stop using them. For now, I consider them my insurance policy.

Everyone need to watch their fuel carefully for the next few months until the conversion to ULSD is completed. Who knows what sludge, water, contaminated fuel, etc... will get sold to unknowing consumers in an effort to clean the old fuel out of the supply chain. This is the time to be using additives and keep an extra filter on the shelf.

Where do you get your Stanadyne? I have look all over and can't find it. Been running Power Service.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:23 pm 
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Any one know the difference in the PowerService Diesel Fuel Supplement in the white bottle and the Diesel Kleen in the silver bottle? I just bought the silver stuff for the first time and the only difference I can tell from the label is the white bottle says for winter service and the silver bottle does not. What Did they add for winter service? anti-gel?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:52 pm 
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bugnout wrote:
Any one know the difference in the PowerService Diesel Fuel Supplement in the white bottle and the Diesel Kleen in the silver bottle? I just bought the silver stuff for the first time and the only difference I can tell from the label is the white bottle says for winter service and the silver bottle does not. What Did they add for winter service? anti-gel?


Silver bottle is cetane booster up to 6 points. White bottle, cetane booster up to 3 points + injector cleaner + anti-gel additive. The grey bottle may have injector cleaner as well, but it does not have the anti-gel and yields a higher cetane boost...so I use silver in the summer and white in the winter...kinda rymes too...hehee

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:32 pm 
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I'm blessed to be able to purchase my fuel from a reputable fuel distributor who moves mass quantities of diesel. He is currently blending a B10 ULSD fuel for his dealers and is providing the product at his drive up pumps. I have a good report with him so we spend some time talking fuel quality and pricing. He has mentioned the the refiners are not required to add a lubricity package to their USLD. This being the case that this fuel will be dryer in its lubricity makeup. The reason he is blending the B10 is two fold, added lubrication and the demand for bio. I have used the Stanadyne product since day one of my CRD purchase and will probably continue even with the B10. I have had an EGR replaced and all updates performed but all in all I very satisfied with my purchase (No tranny shutters)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 5:09 pm 
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I've been using the silver Power Service mixed with Marvel Mystery Oil. 1qt. of MMO to 3 qts. of P/S...then about 8 ozs. in the tank.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 12:10 am 
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sirroco wrote:
I'm blessed to be able to purchase my fuel from a reputable fuel distributor who moves mass quantities of diesel. He is currently blending a B10 ULSD fuel for his dealers and is providing the product at his drive up pumps. I have a good report with him so we spend some time talking fuel quality and pricing. He has mentioned the the refiners are not required to add a lubricity package to their USLD. This being the case that this fuel will be dryer in its lubricity makeup. The reason he is blending the B10 is two fold, added lubrication and the demand for bio. I have used the Stanadyne product since day one of my CRD purchase and will probably continue even with the B10. I have had an EGR replaced and all updates performed but all in all I very satisfied with my purchase (No tranny shutters)


He is correct and incorrect at the same time. The refiners dont' add the lubricity agent...it is required to meet spec but only prior to retail distribution. In other words...they put a little in the truck before it makes it's delivery or something similar.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 12:29 am 
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This fuel thing is more complicated then I thought when I purchased the CRD. Interesting, when I test drove it the engine was remarkably quiet for a diesel....49 miles and 1/2 tank of fuel. Not I have it and after the first fill-up it is much noisier and the fuel usage is up (accordiing to the EVIC) on the same stretch of road. I now have a wopping 209 miles on it.

I picked up some additive, put in 8oz, and topped off the tank in preperation for a 450 mile trip tommorrow. We'll see if it quiets down some. Perhaps sticking to quality suppliers like Chevron or Shell is a good bet when on a trip.....plus a dash of snake oil.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:24 am 
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I purchase Stanadyne across the street where I work. Place is called Diesel Injection Service. I might switch back to Power Service when I finish the case of Stanadyne. It's about twice as expensive.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:56 am 
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litton wrote:
This fuel thing is more complicated then I thought when I purchased the CRD. Interesting, when I test drove it the engine was remarkably quiet for a diesel....49 miles and 1/2 tank of fuel. Not I have it and after the first fill-up it is much noisier and the fuel usage is up (accordiing to the EVIC) on the same stretch of road. I now have a wopping 209 miles on it.

I picked up some additive, put in 8oz, and topped off the tank in preperation for a 450 mile trip tommorrow. We'll see if it quiets down some. Perhaps sticking to quality suppliers like Chevron or Shell is a good bet when on a trip.....plus a dash of snake oil.

Yep, you burned off the b5 factory fuel and refilled with dino-diesel. Best thing you can do is find a source for quality biodiesel in your area. Use just a little biodiesel and it will quiet down considerably.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 11:49 am 
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Heck I love all that noise...that's why I bought a Diesel :P

One note on the BIO D though...if you go over 5% it may void your warranty on the injection system. If you go that route and the supplier doesn't have a B2 or B5 pump, then use the B100 pump and put in 1 gallon of 100% bioD. If you want to get really technical, then put in 1.025 gal of BioD and that will give you exactly 5%.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 11:00 pm 
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Power service is a decent product. I have used Howe's Lubricator for the last 20 years, including 6 in Alaska, with good results for controlling water, lubricity, gelling, and improving cetane. I use Bio now and then and with the Howe's, I never have noticed any difference in operation in my CRD or Semi between Bio and Dino diesel.

Just like with motor oils, you will get 6 opinions from 5 people on what is best to use. The main concern with diesel is always water. Water acts like sandpaper to fuel pumps and injectors. Injectors and pumps made after the early 90's are less influenced by a loss of lubricity in fuel. Cetane improvers are usually always a good thing. The filter will usually take care of most impurities in the diesel, but water can slip through even though the CRD filter has a water separator. The good additives will encapsulate the water and wax molecules so that they will not bond and create problems.

With the ULSD coming more online, there will be crud making it into some of the fuel because of clean out of storage tanks and pipelines. Changing of the fuel filter sooner than normal would be a good idea. After the Huricane Katrina mess, I needed to change fuel filters in my Semi quite frequently.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 2:36 am 
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Cowpie1 wrote:
With the ULSD coming more online, there will be crud making it into some of the fuel because of clean out of storage tanks and pipelines. Changing of the fuel filter sooner than normal would be a good idea. After the Huricane Katrina mess, I needed to change fuel filters in my Semi quite frequently.

This will be a priority this Fall. I intend to change the filter @ November, after the ULSD conversion is done but before the weather freezes.

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