Battery Issue, Need Help! :)

LibertyDante · **Joined:** Sat Apr 01, 2006 8:22 pm **Posts:** 2

Well, I just had to get my car die on me and I jumped started it and it would start up but then just die again when it got to idle. I had to get it towed to my house. It's an 03 Limited with 52,000 miles on it. I was wondering what battery would u recommend and is there an how to on how to replace it. Thanks!

-Ed

PS. I need this INFO ASAP because I need to drive 200 miles by tommorow to get there for my new job.

gone_jeepin · **Posted:** Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:23 pm

optimum batteries are pretty nice and costco usually has a pretty good price on them!!!! i'll go look but you should just be able to unhook the negative cable, unhook the postive cable, then theres a small bolt on the back of the battery that holds it to the tray, loosen that bolt and pick up the battery. instal is in reverse!!!

Kugellager · **Posted:** Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:24 pm

Sounds like your alternator may be shot. Typically when the alternator goes you will not know until the battery is drained. Charging it with a charger or jumping it will make it run for a short time but if the alternator is not working it will not keep a charge on the battery.

Don't get a new battery until you test your alternator or you'll just drain it after a few miles.

John
];')

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:46 pm

Sometimes when a battery goes dead, the computer must relearn everything. Ive seen this happen many times. If you were just driving down the road and it died, then I would say bad alternator. :wink:

If you jump it and leave the cables hooked up and it still wouldnt run, then the computer may need to relearn like I said above. You can get the alternator along with the battery tested at a local advance auto parts or autozone. Im sure the jeep must be running to test the alternator though. :wink:

Edit: If you get the battery charged really good and do not use the headlights, you can run alittle while with a bad alternator. Do no use any accesories. If you could get to one of the places I said above, you could find out if the alternator is also bad.

PitViper · **Posted:** Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:05 pm

just make sure it's not a sony battery! :lol:

kolesy · **Posted:** Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:49 pm

Yeah an easy way to tell if it is your alternator or your battery is to start the vehicle and while its running take the positive off the battery. If the vehicle still runs its your battery, if it shuts down its your alternator.

warblade666 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 03, 2006 1:34 am

That's not a very good way to test any computer controled rig!

I have been in the parts/repair world for many years. I know that test trick works on older cars & trucks, but it can cause major damage to newer ones. The computers & other electronics are very sensative to power surges. A power spike like that can fry an ECM, coils, sensers, and even an alternator.

You should just go have it tested, the right way.

spoonplugger1 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 03, 2006 9:16 am

Diode trios and the voltage regulator chip in the alternator don't like being disconnected from the battery. The alternator goes into high volt overload than you hook it back up and fry the components with an excessive current spike.

Jeger · **Posted:** Sun Sep 03, 2006 9:28 am

spoonplugger1 wrote:

Diode trios and the voltage regulator chip in the alternator don't like being disconnected from the battery. The alternator goes into high volt overload than you hook it back up and fry the components with an excessive current spike.

Could you do that trick but shut off the vehicle before you hook the battery back up?

Oh, Most major auto parts stores will do testing for free.

shak · **Posted:** Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:03 pm

Quote:

just make sure it's not a sony battery!

hahahhaha........not funny considering im typing this from my laptop sitting on my lap

kolesy · **Posted:** Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:35 pm

Alright there are obviously more people here that know more than I. I was just speaking from experience and from MY experience of doing this with many newer vehicles it has worked. In MY experience nothing has ever "fryed". Be safer than and listen to those who know more.

chetos · **Posted:** Mon Sep 04, 2006 8:43 am

warblade666 wrote:

That's not a very good way to test any computer controled rig!

I have been in the parts/repair world for many years. I know that test trick works on older cars & trucks, but it can cause major damage to newer ones. The computers & other electronics are very sensative to power surges. A power spike like that can fry an ECM, coils, sensers, and even an alternator.

You should just go have it tested, the right way.

Can't you check these with an automotive multimeter? I've been thinking of getting one because someone said that's what they're used for...

Kugellager · **Posted:** Mon Sep 04, 2006 11:37 am

chetos wrote:

Can you check these with an automotive multimeter? I've been thinking of getting one because someone said that's what they're used for...

You can if you can get the vehicle running long enough without being on a jump from another vehicle.

You put the meter between the output of the allternator and ground with all accessories off. If the voltage is in the 13 range the alternator should be good. If it is below the mid to upper 12 range it is most likely shot. When my Jeep is off I read a battery voltage of around 12.5V with no significant load.

I have not read it while started.

John
];')

gone_jeepin · **Posted:** Mon Sep 04, 2006 11:55 am

I agree it could be the alternator, but it could just be a bad battery, the alternator might be fine and the battery is not charging

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Mon Sep 04, 2006 12:53 pm

The last time I had an alternator go bad it took the battery with it. If your experience is like mine the testing will be inconclusive as if you test the battery and it has been killed by the alternator it will test bad too.

Battery Issue, Need Help! :)

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