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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:39 pm 
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town driving and turning that causes me grief


I concur. And for the question of is it noticable? Heck yes it is. With mine, it's a duck/cringe with a "wtf was that" then you remember. Mostly happens with me if I'm backing out of a tight parking spot and have to crank it. This is all opinion but as much as I'd love an ARB, this totally works for me and I loved having it in Moab. Really usefull. i haven't driven anything else with a locker so I'm not spoiled from a nicer one. :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 8:46 pm 
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Robert Bradbury wrote:
Jeepjeepster wrote:
Imagine how bad the understeer is when pulling a boat in the rain and you must get speed up to make it up a hill and your in a turn. It downshifts and the torque makes the locker lock and you start drifting into the other lane with traffic coming!! :shock: True story... :(


I tow a 18 ft twin engine boat but haven't had that problem. On the highway I don't notice any problems, it's the in town driving and turning that causes me grief. Winter should be interesting.


Do you tow in any hills with curves? Its great when Im going in a striaght line with no incline. Its normal for it to push when its locked.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 8:56 pm 
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Maybe you should try those curved hills in Full Time 4WD. I've heard that this helps reduce the understeer effect. I tried it a bit and it seems better since the front end is also pulling in hte direction that the wheels are pointed.

I also don't feel like it's understeer as much as it is PLOWING! When you get on the gas and it locks, you definitely need to change the steering input!

One thing I've been impressed with is how it can handle some throttle without locking at all, like those tight parking spaces. I don't understand how that works, but for me it's working. It's when you need more gas that it locks.

when off road, I was able to power-brake it some to insure it was locked before I moved an inch.

And yes, I went up Turtle BOTH DAYS! It was really nice!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 8:58 pm 
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Its all about torque with that thing. Some people think it works off of detecting a wheel slipping, which is does, but it also locks when alot of torque is applied.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 12:56 am 
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My Liberty also has the popping noise,but it on road instead of off-road and the rear locker is stock. It usually happens when I am backing up of making a tight turn like a U turn. Does anyone know why and how I can fix it?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:47 am 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
Robert Bradbury wrote:
Jeepjeepster wrote:
Imagine how bad the understeer is when pulling a boat in the rain and you must get speed up to make it up a hill and your in a turn. It downshifts and the torque makes the locker lock and you start drifting into the other lane with traffic coming!! :shock: True story... :(


I tow a 18 ft twin engine boat but haven't had that problem. On the highway I don't notice any problems, it's the in town driving and turning that causes me grief. Winter should be interesting.


Do you tow in any hills with curves? Its great when Im going in a striaght line with no incline. Its normal for it to push when its locked.


I do live in a mountainous area, and have driven alot in rain, but I have to say I haven't had issues in these conditions on the highway. I haven't really gone off road yet but so far around town ( almost as bad as off road ) I get alot of the so called popping, mostly in turns and backing up.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:03 am 
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AdamIsAdam wrote:
Maybe you should try those curved hills in Full Time 4WD. I've heard that this helps reduce the understeer effect. I tried it a bit and it seems better since the front end is also pulling in hte direction that the wheels are pointed.

I also don't feel like it's understeer as much as it is PLOWING! When you get on the gas and it locks, you definitely need to change the steering input!

One thing I've been impressed with is how it can handle some throttle without locking at all, like those tight parking spaces. I don't understand how that works, but for me it's working. It's when you need more gas that it locks.

when off road, I was able to power-brake it some to insure it was locked before I moved an inch.

And yes, I went up Turtle BOTH DAYS! It was really nice!


There is a good explanation of how it works in the owners manul. Only the inside wheel is powered in a turn. Hence, why you get understeer. In a turn the outside wheel in effect accelerates past the inside wheel and relieves the tension from on the dog teeth and allows it to disengage. It rengages when both wheels start to spin at the same rate. It only locks up in a turn when the powered wheel accelerates past the un-powered wheel. So if the inside wheel starts to skip or slip and you stay on the gas hard enough it will lock up.

I've also towed plenty of times in the moutains and never had a problem. I towed a 3000lbs trailer 1400 miles across the country in rain and 45mph winds and never had a problem. The only place I can real tell the powertrax is present is at low speed manuvers.. like in a parking lot or something.

Here is the long winded explanation from the owners manual.

Quote:
The “pinion gear” carries the engine power to the “ring gear” which is attached to the differential case. The rotating differential case transfers the power to the “axle shafts” through the components within the differential case. The existing “pinion shaft” is replaced with a high strength Zytanium® pinion shaft. It transfers the power from the differential case to the “drivers.” The drivers eliminate th existing “spider gears.” Both drivers are connected to mating “couplers” which join onto the axle shaft splines. The couplers replace the existing “side gears.” The Powertrax No-Slip Traction System obsoletes any friction clutched and related parts that may also accompany the spider and side gears.

“Saddle springs” inserted in the driver saddles press upon the pinion shaft and give the drivers an outward pressure onto the couplers. “Active Spacers” snug the pinion shaft and communicate its position to the “synchro ring” mechanisms assembled within the couplers. The active spacers fit within the drivers and onto the couplers providing on-axis positioning.

The saddle springs act to keep the driver saddles centered on the pinion shaft and provide damping as power is applied through the pinion shaft onto the drivers. As the differential case rotates, the pinion shaft advances with it, compressing the saddle springs until the pinion shaft contacts the drivers saddles at a positive power transfer angle. Power is then directed from the drivers to the couplers through positive engagement tooth profiles on the driver and coupler faces that mesh to transfer full power to the drive wheels. When the vehicle is driven straight, all the power is delivered to both wheels through both sets of drivers and couplers. In a turn, the outside wheel in effect “accelerates” ahead of the inside wheel to compensate for the difference in the turning radius distance of the inner versus the outer wheels. As the outer wheel rotates faster, because it must travel farther than the inner wheel, it advances the coupler from the driver and relaxes the power distributed to the outside wheel. As the coupler continues to advance, it ramps the driver to disengage from the coupler. The synchro ring continues to turn with the coupler until it is stopped by the active spacer “paddle.” the synchro ring is then positioned to prevent re-engagement of the driver and coupler until the turn is complete. The outside wheel in the turn continues to rotate freely with power being delivered to the inside wheel. When turning concludes, the synchro mechanism is reset and power is reapplied to both driving wheels. Full wheel differentiation is thereby provided automatically and identically for right and left turns. Operation is precise, smooth and quiet.

When alternating from drive — to coast — to drive while turning, power is redirected from the inner wheel (drive) to the outer wheel (coast), and back again. When alternating from drive — to coast — to drive while driving straight, power remains directed to both wheels. Engine braking is provided through both wheels when the vehicle is proceeding straight, and through the engaged wheel when turning. The Powertrax No-Slip Traction System is bi-directional and operates identically while driving either forward or in reverse.

Should a wheel lose traction, the Powertrax No-Slip Traction System engages both sets of drivers and couplers to transfer power to both axles. This eliminates unwanted wheel spin and provides optimum traction performance.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 1:35 pm 
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Maybe I was just driving to fast. :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 3:58 pm 
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when i had my powertrax locker in, the only problem i had was in the snow, if you applied lots of gas at once, basically floor, it, you could fish tail, you could counter with steering but took a little getting used to, the key was to apply just a little gas.

Anyway, yeah it's noticable in the city, bang clunks and chings, all normal.... if you offroad at all, it's a great asset.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:08 pm 
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AdamIsAdam wrote:
I've had the locker in for about 2 weeks and well over 500 miles. I've not had it pop once on the road


What gear lube did you use? Mine pops now and then on road. I haven't noticed any poping off road.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:08 pm 
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krazz1e wrote:
when i had my powertrax locker in, the only problem i had was in the snow, if you applied lots of gas at once, basically floor, it, you could fish tail, you could counter with steering but took a little getting used to, the key was to apply just a little gas.

Anyway, yeah it's noticable in the city, bang clunks and chings, all normal.... if you offroad at all, it's a great asset.


Ahh, thats a different locker than I have, I shouldnt have any problems in those areas. :lol: :wink:

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 Post subject: TT vs ESP
PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 12:53 am 
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Which is better, having ESP or having TT in both ends?

What about having TT's in both ends as well as having ESP?

The new 07 Wrangler Rubicon's have lockers and ESP so Why can't I?

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 Post subject: Re: TT vs ESP
PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 9:32 am 
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KJJeepGirl wrote:
Which is better, having ESP or having TT in both ends?

What about having TT's in both ends as well as having ESP?

The new 07 Wrangler Rubicon's have lockers and ESP so Why can't I?


If I had to guess, the ESP in the wrangler is turned off when the lockers are in use. Just a guess though.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 10:09 pm 
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2006 11:15 am 
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I have had a Power Trax in my 79 Dodge Ramcharger for quite a while now. This vehicle came with a 203 transfer case, a full time 4 wheel system with full time hubs and I converted to locking hubs and made the 203 intoa part time unit. All this using Milemarker equipment. I put the Power Trax in a few years after doing the conversion to part time 4 wheel drive.

I would always lock the hubs in the woods and just lock the 4 wheel drive when needed. With the Power Trax, I do not even lock the hubs anymore unless I know I will need 4 wheel drive.

I get the "pop" from binding when I have done a lot of on pavement driving and I can force a lock up in town when I dog it around corners, You can tell it has locked up.

There is slack in the system which I notice mostly when I put the beast in park on a slope. Never has been a problem.

I would like do plan on putting one in my 06 Liberty as soon as I can decide if the electronic braking of the anti-slip system will worl with a Power Trax and I can determine that it will all work appropriately with a manual tranmission. Also, what happens to the warranty?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 12:21 pm 
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Its Awsome off-road and you WILL change your driving habits on-road or it will KILL you or someone you love!!

It will make noise and no-matter what flavor juice you give it, it gets quiet after a fluid change (for a while).

I have driven through nothing so far with streets than I have with AT's . So MT's are the next step up from good streets. I have went through very little with MT's that Aired down streets would not take me through with the No-slip.

Unless you are hardcore. A very good steet LT and air pump will get you where you need to go with the no-slip.

"warranty?" You folks gotta stop worrying about that. take the no-slip sticker off and wrap a chain around your diff with a lock on it when you take it in for service.

:lol: :oops: :cry: :x :shock: :D :o :idea: :twisted: :evil:


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 Post subject: Re: Powertrax No-Slip locker - REVIEWED
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:22 pm 
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makes me wonder how one would work in a 4X2.

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 Post subject: Re: Powertrax No-Slip locker - REVIEWED
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:47 pm 
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if anyone wants to buy one of these powertrax rear lockers for the KJ PM me. I know someone that put it in his rear end for 2 days and took it out because of road manors. price would be right.

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 Post subject: Re: Powertrax No-Slip locker - REVIEWED
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:27 pm 
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Well - the last guy to post on this dead thread 4 1/2 years ago - jferg - was running 4x2
and it seemed to work well for a couple of years - and then it died......

although admittedly some folks do like the Powertrax

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 Post subject: Re: Powertrax No-Slip locker - REVIEWED
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:48 pm 
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2006 KJ wrote:
if anyone wants to buy one of these powertrax rear lockers for the KJ PM me. I know someone that put it in his rear end for 2 days and took it out because of road manors. price would be right.



Wish I knew this 4 days ago. I would have bought it.

I've run the Aussie and the Powertrax both and I LOVED the Powertrax...it was smooth and flawless. The Aussie worked great too but it was much louder in operation. I will be buying another Powertrax or Aussie for my KJ this year. Simply can't beat them for the money and ease of installation/reversal.

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