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 Post subject: F/R differential and Transfer Case fluid change...
PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:32 pm 
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Hey everyone,

Just wondering how much of a PITA it is to get to each of these to do a fluid swap. I know the rear is nothing to get to, but was just wondering about the transfer case and front differential. I've got an '02 Renny with the factory Mopar skids. I'm also assuming everyone is removing the rear differential cover and draining the fluid that way rather than just suctioning it out, correct?

Thanks a ton for the help everyone! Of course, the Haynes manual and factory manual make it sound like a piece of cake, but we all know how that goes once you get into a project! :roll:

Same question goes for the spark plugs. I am wanting to do those at the same time too, and they don't look too hard to get to, but just wanted some input from some who have done it already.

Thanks!
8)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:44 pm 
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Hey there,
The front and transfer are rather easy. If you have tools, i think a hex for the transfer and used the box end of a socket extension forthe front. Both take about 2 quarts of fluid. Make sure to use ATF 4 not 3 for the transfer.

The rear is a bit more of a pita due to rtv sealant, but nothing difficult. There is no drain hole on the rear, so you must pop the cover to drain it. To properly seal it back up, envolves new RTV, which means you need to get all the old seal off. And then put new RTV back on there.

The whole process should take less than a couple hours, unless you have to drop skids and such.

Good luck, sure beats paying a couple hundred bucks at the dealear.

later,
mike


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:49 pm 
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Hey thanks for the reply! Yeah, I know how that is having to deal with the RTV sealant.....did the tranny service on my own. That was fun... :roll: .

I may end up tackling this project on my own. May have to drop the factory skids. I'm assuming the skid furthermost to the front. Can ya tell I haven't been under my KJ too much?!?! :P

The service manual says that a friction modifier is needed for the rear if you have Trak-Lok, which I think I have, but will have to verify that. Not quite sure how much is needed either. I also read somewhere that somebody is making gaskets for the rear diff, which would be nice if I didn't have to deal with the RTV sealant again!

Thanks again!!

8)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:59 pm 
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The spark plugs are not too dificult. Worst one to get is the passenger side rear. I just unbolt the coolant bottle and move it up out of the way. The there is plenty of room. Be careful removing the coil from each plug too.
LUBELOCKER makes a real nice diff gasket for the rear if you need/want it.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:00 pm 
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JJsKJ wrote:
The spark plugs are not too dificult. Worst one to get is the passenger side rear. I just unbolt the coolant bottle and move it up out of the way. The there is plenty of room. Be careful removing the coil from each plug too.
LUBELOCKER makes a real nice diff gasket for the rear if you need/want it.


x2

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:27 pm 
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I got a paper gasket from Advance auto for about 3 dollars. So far no leaks. I worked great. [/b]

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 10:17 pm 
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How often do this fluids need changed, according to the manual?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 10:19 pm 
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Signcutter21 wrote:
Hey there,
.... Make sure to use ATF 4 not 3 for the transfer.
.......
later,
mike


Why do you think this is important ? Anyone ? Because I don't think it is.

I'm open to learn. I just think they spec ATF+4 because that is what they are using now. Because there are no friction clutches to be affected by the characteristics of the fluid, I can't see a difference.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 10:26 pm 
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PBrug wrote:
How often do this fluids need changed, according to the manual?


If I'm not mistaken, the manual calls for every 30k miles for these fluids. It's probably a good idea to do it more often if you're tough on the parts, or if they get submerged in water.

Hope this helps, and thanks everyone for the input!

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 10:28 pm 
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JJsKJ wrote:
The spark plugs are not too dificult. Worst one to get is the passenger side rear. I just unbolt the coolant bottle and move it up out of the way. The there is plenty of room. Be careful removing the coil from each plug too.
LUBELOCKER makes a real nice diff gasket for the rear if you need/want it.


Here's a total newb question for ya. Which gasket for the libby? I'm assuming one of the Dana gaskets?

:)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:01 pm 
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psinsyd wrote:
JJsKJ wrote:
The spark plugs are not too dificult. Worst one to get is the passenger side rear. I just unbolt the coolant bottle and move it up out of the way. The there is plenty of room. Be careful removing the coil from each plug too.
LUBELOCKER makes a real nice diff gasket for the rear if you need/want it.


Here's a total newb question for ya. Which gasket for the libby? I'm assuming one of the Dana gaskets?

:)


Nope, its a chrysler 8.25. :wink: I got a paper gasket for mine from richmond gear, I will never use RTV again. I hated that stuff. :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 7:14 am 
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You don't need to use ATF 4 in the t-case. Like dkcase said, no friction clutches. You just want a fluid that has a similar viscosity as ATF and that will provide good protection. Any quality ATF fluid will be just fine. ATF 4 is just specified for continuity and easy of use. That way your dealer doesnt need a different fluid for every single part on your Jeep.

I'm actually just using a synchromesh fluid. Some older timers actually just use 10w30 in the Jeep t-case. A little thicker than ATF, but have heard anyone complain.


I also just use the paper gasket for 3 dollars. Works great, hell of alot better than RTV. RTV is just a mesh to use, plus clean up is even worste.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 9:54 am 
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Eddo wrote:
I also just use the paper gasket for 3 dollars. Works great, hell of alot better than RTV. RTV is just a mesh to use, plus clean up is even worste.


Where do you get this gasket? Thanks.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 10:19 am 
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chetos wrote:
Eddo wrote:
I also just use the paper gasket for 3 dollars. Works great, hell of alot better than RTV. RTV is just a mesh to use, plus clean up is even worste.


Where do you get this gasket? Thanks.


Advanced Auto in my area, called Checkers in some other areas.

www.partsamerica.com is the nation wide website, all the same chain.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 11:14 am 
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jeepkj02 wrote:
I got a paper gasket from Advance auto for about 3 dollars. So far no leaks. I worked great. [/b]

That's the best advice I've gotten in months--I HATE RTV. Next time I get a chance I'm going to clean that crap off and use a gasket instead. Have you ever tried to install the stock diff cover and a Rock Ring at the same time? What a nightmare.

I thought the only alternative was the lubelocker...which is really nice, just a little pricey.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 11:16 am 
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Oh, don't forget about Rock Lizard's HD diff covers w/ drain plug. He's got a great price on it, and it lets you avoid removing the diff cover altogether. Pays for itself in a couple of years, especially if you're paying $6 for RTV every time like I've been doing :oops:.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 12:15 pm 
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What fluid is being used in the differential? I here some using 75W-90 synthetic gear oil and others 90W gear oil. :?:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 1:29 pm 
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I also keep seeing people post all kinds of things....I don't know if they changed the specs between years, but just check your manuals guys.

JP


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 5:37 pm 
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Well, my attempt at uploading a pic didn't work, so lemme try this.....from the factory service manual btw.

Nope, didn't work....ugh.

ANYWAYS......

Front and Rear Diffs use 75w140 SYNTHETIC. The Trac-Loc rear diffs require a friction modifier, but it doesn't give the part number, or how much to use.

They also recommend doing a fluid swap ASAP if the diff is submerged in water.

Hope this helps!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 5:40 pm 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
psinsyd wrote:
JJsKJ wrote:
The spark plugs are not too dificult. Worst one to get is the passenger side rear. I just unbolt the coolant bottle and move it up out of the way. The there is plenty of room. Be careful removing the coil from each plug too.
LUBELOCKER makes a real nice diff gasket for the rear if you need/want it.


Here's a total newb question for ya. Which gasket for the libby? I'm assuming one of the Dana gaskets?

:)


Nope, its a chrysler 8.25. :wink: I got a paper gasket for mine from richmond gear, I will never use RTV again. I hated that stuff. :roll:


Thanks! Yeah, I can't say I'm exactly a fan of the RTV sealant crap either!!

:lol:


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