Warn locking hubs for the KJ

Jaredg · **Joined:** Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:59 pm **Posts:** 6

Has anybody adapted warn hubs to a kj? I have searched and not found anything without a conversion to a solid axle. I'm looking to put a locking hub on my stock IFS front end.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:53 pm

Don't think it is possible w/ any current hub kits. At least not w/out a lot of custom work to make it function.

spoonplugger1 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 01, 2006 10:30 pm

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Dec 01, 2006 10:40 pm

spoonplugger1 wrote:

Why?

Good question.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Fri Dec 01, 2006 10:48 pm

it will all come down to what parts are out and for what axel's they will work on the bad thing is that the KJ has a 1 of a kind design so it probably will never work

the bigger question is why would you want to convert?
the current design is fine and the benifit would never pay off in a KJ
To convert a TJ is a little different because you can run a detroit locker up front but even then it is cheeper to put in an arb or ox locker I dont see anybody wanting to run a detroit in a KJ

Jaredg · **Joined:** Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:59 pm **Posts:** 6

So i'm not spinning the entire front end. Why spin the front axle and take the associated power loss if you can avoid it.

USPLibby · **Joined:** Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:29 am **Posts:** 377

If you want to lock your front axle, it won't be accomplished with hubs but with a locking differential. The stock front diff is open so the hubs don't make a difference. ARB makes an air locker for the KJ D-30a, big bucks $900+and you need to install the air pump and lines. The Aussie Locker is an automatic locker like the powertrax lockers, $229.00.

KW AV8R · **Posted:** Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:21 am

USPLibby wrote:

If you want to lock your front axle, it won't be accomplished with hubs but with a locking differential. The stock front diff is open.

I think you misunderstood the issue. He wants to get locking hubs so that when he is in 2wd the whole front drivetrain won't be getting turned. The payoffs for this is increased mpg and less wear and tear. Whether this is feasible and/or cost-effective is beyond my level of expertise so I'll defer to others on those.

USPLibby · **Joined:** Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:29 am **Posts:** 377

All 4 wheel drive Jeep Libertys are part time 4 wheel drive only. The front wheels don't and won't engage without lifting the transfer case lever.

KW AV8R · **Posted:** Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:36 am

USPLibby wrote:

All 4 wheel drive Jeep Libertys are part time 4 wheel drive only. The front wheels don't and won't engage without lifting the transfer case lever.

True, with the transfer disengaged (in 2wd) the engine/transmission are not driving the front wheels. However, as the tires roll along the road they turn the half shafts which then turn the gears in the front differential which turn the front driveshaft. With the locking hubs, the front wheels would turn freely as they roll along the road without turning the front drivetrain.

I'm also kinda confused by your statement that all 4wd Libertys are part time 4wd only. What about the people with the Select-Trac full-time 4wd?

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:46 am

Lots of people on here are not old enough to remember back in the day when you had to get out to lock the hubs in before you went wheeling. So they have never driven or know what it is all about. To do this would be a great deal of work plus not sure with the setup we have nowthat it would be possible. Plus the fact that there would be more maintenance to do by taking the hubs apart, cleaning them regreasing the bearings etc after ever fun time out in the mud and water. OK now lets here all the experts chime in
just trying to stir things up on here :lol:

USPLibby · **Joined:** Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:29 am **Posts:** 377

KW AV8R wrote:

USPLibby wrote:

All 4 wheel drive Jeep Libertys are part time 4 wheel drive only. The front wheels don't and won't engage without lifting the transfer case lever.

True, with the transfer disengaged (in 2wd) the engine/transmission are not driving the front wheels. However, as the tires roll along the road they turn the half shafts which then turn the gears in the front differential which turn the front driveshaft. With the locking hubs, the front wheels would turn freely as they roll along the road without turning the front drivetrain.

I'm also kinda confused by your statement that all 4wd Libertys are part time 4wd only. What about the people with the Select-Trac full-time 4wd?

You are reading it wrong, I mean part time as the physical state of having only the back wheels turn not the name brand Jeep T-case feature. I do remember Warn hubs, I installed two sets on my brothers 4x4's, One bronco and one landcruiser. Kind of a pain in the booty to get out just to lock them.

I also don't see any Warn applications for Jeeps post 1991, and none for the Jeep Cherokee, Wrangler/TJ or Wagoneer. Maybe it's outdated technology?

OzLtd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:41 am

I believe you will be splitting hairs, dont waste your money mate.

If you're really desperate, take the front driveshaft when you know you wont be 4x4ing for a while. THat'll save some fuel but like I said above, your hair splitting.......

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:12 am

Locking hubs would be nice for three reasons.

1) leaving them in the "open" position would stop the dront CVJoint axles and front diff from turning at all.

2) if you broke a CVJoint or front diff part you could leave open and drive home with no problem

3) the hub would have a "fuse" that would possibly work ( disengage the front driveaxle ) before the front diff exploded

Lots of good reasons...probably not that hard to add a Warn Hub that works with a regular d30

***Just removing the front driveshaft will not stop the CVJoint Axles or Front Diff Internals from rotating***

swyszomirski · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2005 2:59 am **Posts:** 286

***Just removing the front driveshaft will not stop the CVJoint Axles or Front Diff Internals from rotating***

Correct, since the half shafts are still connected to the hubs. I have thought about trying to find a wrecked KJ and get the front hubs, and then turn them on a lathe, or what have you so they could work for warn hubs. Maybe combine two hubs into one or something close.

Stephen

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sun Dec 03, 2006 12:13 am

DarbyWalters wrote:

Locking hubs would be nice for three reasons.

1) leaving them in the "open" position would stop the dront CVJoint axles and front diff from turning at all.

2) if you broke a CVJoint or front diff part you could leave open and drive home with no problem

3) the hub would have a "fuse" that would possibly work ( disengage the front driveaxle ) before the front diff exploded

Lots of good reasons...probably not that hard to add a Warn Hub that works with a regular d30

***Just removing the front driveshaft will not stop the CVJoint Axles or Front Diff Internals from rotating***

It would be very hard to adapt a standard D30 hub to a KJ the hub conversion kit for the TJ D30 takes the full floating (I think it is any way) and add's a new bering and hub and outter shaft this is all relative to spline count and current hub size on the TJ along with the current inner wich is not even close to what is on a KJ

all the reasons are good and the same for the TJ but look at the expence vs the benifit and it just dont add up the TJ kit is $1200 and after install you are lookig at $1500+ for a rig the kit was made for factor in all the custom work and you are looking at an easy $2000+
at last check the KJ was much like the TJ in the fact that if you broke any thing from the front tire back you could pull the inner shafts TJ or CV shafts KJ and drive home just like it was never broke and if I am thinking correctly the KJ is easier than the TJ cause there is less to take off to get the CV shaft out

Jeger · **Posted:** Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:26 am

4) You could add a cheap locker and still drive on the road.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sun Dec 03, 2006 12:25 pm

Jeger wrote:

4) You could add a cheap locker and still drive on the road.

you could add an ARB for less
$1100 installed including the compressor ,I installed the compressor
I will be geting one for the rear of the KJ soon i will post up price for that when I do

XR · **Posted:** Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:08 am

The hub fuse would be nice.I've done the research and it's not worth the money.Cheaper to buy a new front diff.

jamesvincentgaudin · **Joined:** Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:42 am **Posts:** 1

I had wondered this same thing because I just had to pay the Jeep dealer $1175 for replacing the right front cv shaft on my '06 KJ CRD with 108,458 miles on it. I figured it might last longer if it wasn't spinnin' all the time. I figure $1200 for a kit and do the work myself would make as much sense as doing the left shaft at ? miles, and delay that event until some time down the road and maybe somewhat pay for itself in better mileage over the 1,000,000,000 miles (hopefully) usable life of my diesel. I haven't found a conversion kit, though, so....

Warn locking hubs for the KJ

Who is online