brake job ?

bigmd · **Joined:** Sat Aug 26, 2006 10:51 am **Posts:** 169

guys,how difficult is it to do brakes?i have an 04 with 4 wheel disc.is it just a matter of putting on pads and having the rotors resurfaced?

fdezone · **Posted:** Wed Dec 20, 2006 11:13 am

Yeah, that pretty much sums it up. Although, I have an 04 and I've had to replace the front rotors twice due to warpage. At times it seems my rotors warp before my pads wear.

detroit_doc · **Posted:** Wed Dec 20, 2006 11:58 am

Brakes aren't hard. When I did my libby at 38,000 miles I needed new front rotors (they had been cut once before by the dealer due to warpage). My rear rotors were just barely within spec, so I was able to resurface them.

My family used to own a brake shop. Here is the advice I give everyone...

Buy break cleaner, caliper grease, and anti-squeak (a paste you put on the back of the pads). Clean everything up with the brake cleaner. Try not to get grease on the pads or rotors as it will contaminate them. Use caliper grease on where the pads contact the shims. Put anti-squeak on the back of the pads and let it set up for 10 or 15 minutes before installing them. Check your caliper hardware and replace it if necessary. When you are all finished, hit your rotors with the brake cleaner again as even the oils on your hands can reduce braking performance. Before you start your vehicle, pump the brakes up. If you do not, you will not have brakes! Take the truck out and do some progressively harder stops from 50 - 10 mph (5 to 10). You may have some noise at this point and the brakes may not feel like they have much power. Then drive around and let them cool off.

Even though my family no longer owns the brake ship, I still do probably 10 - 15 brakes jobs a year for friends and family. If you follow the above advice your newly installed brakes won't squeak and should perform well.

If you've never done brakes before, be sure to have a C-clamp. You will use this to push the pistons back into the caliper.

Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. It helps to have another vehicle handy in case you need to make a trip to the parts store for anything. It also helps to have a friend handy who has done brakes befores.

bigmd · **Joined:** Sat Aug 26, 2006 10:51 am **Posts:** 169

ok thanks guys.

fdezone · **Posted:** Wed Dec 20, 2006 6:21 pm

detroit_doc wrote:

Here is the advice I give everyone...

Buy break cleaner, caliper grease, and anti-squeak (a paste you put on the back of the pads). Clean everything up with the brake cleaner. Try not to get grease on the pads or rotors as it will contaminate them. Use caliper grease on where the pads contact the shims. Put anti-squeak on the back of the pads and let it set up for 10 or 15 minutes before installing them. Check your caliper hardware and replace it if necessary. When you are all finished, hit your rotors with the brake cleaner again as even the oils on your hands can reduce braking performance. Before you start your vehicle, pump the brakes up. If you do not, you will not have brakes! Take the truck out and do some progressively harder stops from 50 - 10 mph (5 to 10). You may have some noise at this point and the brakes may not feel like they have much power. Then drive around and let them cool off.

Dag! Anti-squeak paste? That's good to know. Thanks for the helpful advice.

jcphoto20 · **Joined:** Sun Nov 19, 2006 1:36 am **Posts:** 507

mine has a tick under 50K and still has original brakes. drums in the rear still have half their life and fronts at least a 1/3. no warpage at all. im glad i take care of my equipment!!! but when i do change, im definately gunna put on some grooved and drilled frozen rotors. love the feel of those year round.

waddy whiteguts · **Posted:** Fri Dec 22, 2006 9:51 am

A little smear of anti sieze compound on the BACK of the pads also eliminates squealing disk brakes. Do the KJ pistons need to be turned back in or just pushed? Rotors are generally so cheap I'd rather just replace them than turn them (although I've never priced them for the KJ). Pay close attention to the condition of the caliper slides. If they are sticking at all you will get uneven pad wear, rubbing and grabby brakes. Check your brake fluid level after the brake job.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Dec 22, 2006 10:52 pm

waddy whiteguts wrote:

A little smear of anti sieze compound on the BACK of the pads also eliminates squealing disk brakes. Do the KJ pistons need to be turned back in or just pushed? Rotors are generally so cheap I'd rather just replace them than turn them (although I've never priced them for the KJ). Pay close attention to the condition of the caliper slides. If they are sticking at all you will get uneven pad wear, rubbing and grabby brakes. Check your brake fluid level after the brake job.

I took my front brakes apart around 20k to clean and regrease all the caliper sliders and such. With all the mud and water im in, I figured it was the least I could do.

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Sat Dec 23, 2006 11:12 pm

Detroit_Doc...Very good post.I've been a auto tech for 24 years and all you mentioned is very good advise.Only thing I would add is to make sure the rear brakes are working properly or it will wear the fronts out twice as quick.Jeepjeepster also brought up a very good point that if you do any wheeling,especially water fording,clean and grease ALL brake hardware often. Another good idea is tourqing your lug nuts.Uneven tourqe can and probably will warp top hat style rotors.

brake job ?

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