Regear and Rear ARB Locker Install

unixxx · **Posted:** Wed Dec 27, 2006 11:01 pm

Gris, the total length of the new Mopar D30a 4.10 pinion is 7.25".

LiLredLibby, thanks for the info, I'll see if I can find that puller. I tried a regular hammer and punch and a 3# dead blow hammer. The pinion shaft didn't budge at all. As you say, the bearing must be frozen. I don't have a press, so I'll probably just use a piece of pipe to install the bearings.

Donkeykong · **Posted:** Thu Dec 28, 2006 1:51 am

unixxx wrote:

Gris, the total length of the new Mopar D30a 4.10 pinion is 7.25".

LiLredLibby, thanks for the info, I'll see if I can find that puller. I tried a regular hammer and punch and a 3# dead blow hammer. The pinion shaft didn't budge at all. As you say, the bearing must be frozen. I don't have a press, so I'll probably just use a piece of pipe to install the bearings.

When we build $40,000 spindles for lathes, we will either deep freeze bearings that are going inside something. (a Deep freezer will work, but if you have access to dry ice of liquid nitrogen and some good gloves, that is better)

Or we have an induction plate which superheats the metal thru induction causing it to slip on and shrink to fit. You should be able to get your preload by measuring the bearing height and the length of the shaft. I'm not sure what the math is, but it's out there if you're ambitious to work it out for yourself. I'm still a bit wet behind the ears compared to the old timers, so I am still picking up how to calculate the proper preload on a bearing (Considering that the bearings are going up in price and the lead time is getting out of hand (thanks china) I'm suprised that they let me anywhere near the bearings)
Sorry it's late and I know a little on the subject.
-Mark

unixxx · **Posted:** Thu Dec 28, 2006 3:56 am

Thanks for the info guys. I managed to get the pinion shaft out with a large sledge hammer. Four direct hits and it slid right out with no damage at all. It makes me wonder whether DC over tightened the pinion nut, thus causing the stuck shaft and larger backlash....

unixxx · **Posted:** Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:28 am

A new update to the guide today. I've been helping my dad install an SYE on our Wrangler and didn't get as far today or yesterday :twisted:

unixxx · **Posted:** Sun Dec 31, 2006 2:39 am

New update. Made some set up bearings for the pinion. Got the ring gear and carrier bearing installed on the locker. Also drilled, tapped, and cleaned the housing.

Now I need need to install the pinion and carrier and prepare the Rock Lizard diff cover. The difficult part is going to be determining pinion depth. The old pinion gear is marked with the variance (+1), while the new pinion gear is marked with what looks like the ideal checking distance. I need the nominal checking distance so I can find the variance of the new gear.

Gris · **Posted:** Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:03 pm

just an FYI on the Dana/Spicer gears I got...

I measured the pinion length. It's just shy of 7.5". I'd say right between 7-3/8 and 7-7/16.

I'm hoping that the less than 1/8" length difference between what these measure and the 7.5 you measured yours at isn't an issue.

unixxx · **Posted:** Sun Dec 31, 2006 6:09 pm

My measurement could be off by 1/16 of an inch or so. I just took a quick measurement with a less than accurate tape measure. It looks promising that the length is closer to the D30a measurement than the standard D30 measurement.

unixxx · **Posted:** Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:20 pm

For anyone who has done this before.... How does this gear pattern look for the 4.10s in my 8.25?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:45 pm

Looks just about perfect,not going to get better than that.The contact patterns is centered on both faces,so I'd say it's perfect.Good job unixxx!

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:52 pm

unixxx wrote:

For anyone who has done this before.... How does this gear pattern look for the 4.10s in my 8.25?

unixxx...I've probably set up about 50 or so in my 24 years experience,and with those marks being centered that close heel to toe I would have to say the mesh looks correct.I'm sure you found all the specs on pinion preload,backlash,ect.Give me your results on some of this just to compare notes.So far...Looks good. :wink:

unixxx · **Posted:** Mon Jan 01, 2007 10:14 pm

The backlash is .010" right now. I think the pattern may be even better centered when I narrow it down to .008". I can't remember what shims I used, I'll have to check when I remove the setup bearings and press on the real ones. The new and old pinion had different marks and I couldn't remove the inner bearing from the old pinion. So I guessed the pinion shims by figuring out how many I could stick into the gap between the old pinion and its bearing. The pinion preload is 25 in/lbs. The carrier bearing preload is 75 ft/lbs on each adjuster. The pinion depth looks to be correct by the pattern. The backlash is the only thing that's slightly off. I figured the pinion shims would be too out of whack and I'd just have to set it again, LOL. I guess my next step is to tear it down, install the real bearings and crush sleeve, and decrease the backlash by .002". I guess I should also check the pattern 180 degress around the ring gear.

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Mon Jan 01, 2007 10:43 pm

unixxx wrote:

The backlash is .010" right now. I think the pattern may be even better centered when I narrow it down to .008". I can't remember what shims I used, I'll have to check when I remove the setup bearings and press on the real ones. The new and old pinion had different marks and I couldn't remove the inner bearing from the old pinion. So I guessed the pinion shims by figuring out how many I could stick into the gap between the old pinion and its bearing. The pinion preload is 25 in/lbs. The carrier bearing preload is 75 ft/lbs on each adjuster. The pinion depth looks to be correct by the pattern. The backlash is the only thing that's slightly off. I figured the pinion shims would be too out of whack and I'd just have to set it again, LOL. I guess my next step is to tear it down, install the real bearings and crush sleeve, and decrease the backlash by .002". I guess I should also check the pattern 180 degress around the ring gear.

Specs recommended for NEW parts is .006 to .010 I would be happy with what you've got cause being on the high end wont be as apt to whine as being too tight.Pinion bearing preload is 12 to 15 inch pounds.When I check this I install one of my yoke bolts and put tourqe on it to keep track.When you install new crush sleeve,put a pry bar in the yoke and let it pin itself against the body to hold it still.Run the big nut on the yoke down till you acheve 12 to 15 inch pounds of tourqe while spining the yoke with your tourqe wrench.It will take alot of stupid to crush the sleeve but check it often so as not to exceed 15 inch pounds.you can recheck that spec,but I beleve 25 is going to burn a couple of bearings up. :wink:

But that pattern is pretty. :lol:

unixxx · **Posted:** Mon Jan 01, 2007 10:56 pm

The service manual says the preload should be 10-20 in/lbs for original bearings and 10-30 in/lbs for new bearings. When I install the crush sleeve, I'll take your advice and go for 15 in/lbs to save the bearings. Thanks for the info.

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Mon Jan 01, 2007 11:13 pm

I think 15 would be a good comprimise....This post has been a good one and the PICS are great quality.Keep up the good work and keep us updated......GOOD LUCK. :wink:

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:33 am

Yes I second that this is a good post with pics and will help all of those that will follow you soon hopefully! Keep the updates coming! I know that I am waiting on the outcome

OzLtd · **Posted:** Tue Jan 02, 2007 4:32 am

Unixxx, Question.

Did you do some testing and recording of speedo readings, fuel consumption, speed per gear ect before you took it apart ?

I'll assume you're going to post the results of the new findings after a couple of days / weeks

!!

Also, are you going to get your pinion factor changed as to reflect a proper speed reading on your dash ?

unixxx · **Posted:** Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:48 am

OzLtd, the speedometer reads 11% lower than it should. Unfortunately, regearing won't solve this problem because the speed sensor works off of the tone ring, which is on the carrier. I got ~12.75 mpg in the city with the old 3.73 gears. I rarely drive on the highway, so I can't really give you a mpg reading for that. I believe my max speed while going down hill in overdrive was ~90 mph with the old ring and pinion gears. I don't have speeds for any of the other transmission gears. I'll definitely post the results when I'm done.

I got the Rock Lizard diff cover painted and the pinion installed today. Unfortunately, I can't set the pinion bearing preload until I get the yoke holder from SPX Miller Tools. I tried using a piece of angle iron as a holder but the bolt just sheared off :lol:

. I'm not here next weekend, so hopefuly, I'll have the rear finished by the end of the weekend after that. To correct the speedometer reading, I'll either reprogram the computer or install one of the special sensor converters/adapters. Or, I'll just mentally add 11% :twisted:

. I've updated the install guide again but it's still in progress.

unixxx · **Posted:** Sun Jan 21, 2007 2:12 am

I installed the pinion and carrier today. I was just setting the backlash when I ran into a problem, the pinion gear rubs on the air locker assembly :shock:

ARB doesn't tell you the gear can rub despite having an acceptable pattern. When I did the trial run without the crush sleeve, I set the pinion to 25in/lbs of rotating torque. This time I set it to 18in/lbs. Since the pinion is just barely touching, I'm hoping I can eliminate the rubbing if I tighten the pinion back down to 25in/lbs. The only thing that has changed since the last setup is the rotating torque and the bearings, which are the identical brand and part number. I'm just wondering if the clearance once it no longer rubs will be enough to prevent it from rubbing during operation.... Worst case scenario, I have to buy a new inner pinion bearing and decrease the shim stack slightly.

ARBSeth, if you read this, be sure the mention in the next revision of the Install Manual, "Check that there is no contact between the pinion gear and the locker assembly." :lol:

unixxx · **Posted:** Sat Jan 27, 2007 8:50 pm

For those that are curious....

The pinion depth and backlash were .027 and .010, respectively. Unfortunately, when I did the final assembly with the crush sleeve, the pinion gear started binding on the carrier. I dropped the pinion depth and backlash down to .012 and .008, respectively. This resulted in what looks to be a less than ideal pattern. Does anybody have any thoughts on the new pattern:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:00 pm

Well according to the KJ manual pics you have the correct pinion depth but need to decrease the ring gear backlash.I can't remeber my specs on my rear but never had a problem with the ARB hitting the pinion.Hope all turns out good.

Regear and Rear ARB Locker Install

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