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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 8:48 pm 
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strange, locker broke but D35 was fine?!

Some people have problems with the powertrax, some people never do. most of the time people who have issues have them real early on. Like alot of people break them installing them!! Too many moving parts if you ask me.

Go with an aussie! They have no tire size limit on their warranty, but you have to record the tolerances between some parts during the install for the warranty to be valid. Makes sense to me.

Oh yeah, and tritanium sounds like a marketing term to me. Some slightly different alloy that they wanted to have a cool sounding name. chances are it doesn't have any Ti in it at all!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 12:28 pm 
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Ferg,

Call me man... we have a M35 bolt in w/ ring application for you now.
http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/2-RD125.pdf

300M Doesn't break. And believe you me... I've tried.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:35 am 
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I'm thinking about upgrading my Trac-Lock, but I want to avoid cables, wires and airhoses (hence no Detroit ELocker or ARB Air Locker).

I am considering the following:

Powertrax - but I just got done reading this unfavorable thread, doesn't sound as promissing as I once thought.

Detroit Locker - read several complaints about the locker failing/breaking, and Eaton not standing behind their product. Not stellar either.

Detroit TrueTrac - LSD, supposedly better than Trac-Lock, but still not a locker. I haven't heard anything about it. I think JP Magazine was going to install one on a TJ.

Anybody have any thoughts on how these compare?

Anything else out there?

Thanks, Ivan.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 6:13 pm 
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Well I've been drivin my KJ now for a little over a week with the Powertrax no-slip in. I love it!! It seems to have gotten smoother and quieter since it has been broke in. But, I have a 8.25 diff. So I can highly recommend it for a 8.25, but not for a Dana 35 as I have not used it in that diff before. The price was right as well.

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 Post subject: Powertrax
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 4:43 pm 
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Cool, glad to hear it's working well for you. Where did you buy it and for how much? Or did someone hook you up with a special deal?

So is it a locking differential or a no-slip differential? Is there a difference? I haven't seen anyone refer to it as a locker yet, leaves me wondering if it is something totally different.

Ivan.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 5:07 pm 
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Ivan, it is a locker. It will lock up 100% when you apply the throttle.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:31 pm 
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Edwin wrote:
Ivan, it is a locker. It will lock up 100% when you apply the throttle.


I wish I could say I like my Powertrax. Mine never worked from day one, it is noisy
and unpredictable. It will unlock in a turn so violently that it feels as though someone
has just struck the diff with a 10 lb maul . Only thin I can say good is that it hasn't
broke ...................YET!!

Powertrax keep putting me off and are NOT standing behind their product. BTW, I had a Pro
install this and he knows what he's doing so we can factor that variable out .

Robert

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:52 pm 
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Thanks for the feedback guys, I thought picking a locker would be one of the easy decisions - man was I wrong.

Has anyone have experience with, or better yet, have any experience with the Lock-Right locker? It's also by Richmond Gear, seems like a stronger locker but not sure if it will go in the 8.25. Their webpage warns:

"We recommend the LOCK-RIGHT for vehicles that are primarily driven in severe driving conditions or are used for recreational off-road."

http://www.powertrax.com/lockright.html

They recommend the Powertrax for daily driver/weekend trail warriors.

Does anyone have any input on Detroit Locker or Detroit Truetrac?

Ivan

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:02 pm 
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Detroit locker is a true locker. Detroit tru-trac is a limited slip.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:21 pm 
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Ivan wrote:
Thanks for the feedback guys, I thought picking a locker would be one of the easy decisions - man was I wrong.

Has anyone have experience with, or better yet, have any experience with the Lock-Right locker? It's also by Richmond Gear, seems like a stronger locker but not sure if it will go in the 8.25. Their webpage warns:

"We recommend the LOCK-RIGHT for vehicles that are primarily driven in severe driving conditions or are used for recreational off-road."

http://www.powertrax.com/lockright.html

They recommend the Powertrax for daily driver/weekend trail warriors.

Does anyone have any input on Detroit Locker or Detroit Truetrac?

Ivan


Stay away from the lock-rite. If people complain about the road manners of the no-slip then the lock-rite is a nightmaner. I had one in my CJ and the alot worste than the no-slip. The no-slip has some syncros and spacers to help keep it a better mannered on the road. I've had my no-slip for about 2 years and no problems. I don't go out looking to break it thought (anything can be broken if you try hard enough), but I do wheel harder than most.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:18 pm 
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Thanks Eddo - I'll heed your advice.

Ivan.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:29 pm 
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I have a tru-trac in my truck. It will apply total force with one wheel off the ground if you work the e-brake. It is a lot easier to do the brake trick with the KJ (Center) than it is with the Chevy truck (by your feet)


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:00 pm 
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Hey The1jferg, how do you think that Tru-trac would work in the front of the KJ?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:10 pm 
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tru-trac would be great for the front. It's not a locker, it's a worm gear driven limited slip. no clutches to wear out. it allows a certain amount of differentation between the two wheels, and that's it. with a little brake working, it's almost as good as a locker.

the downside is that you have to replace the whole carrier, and setup the ring and pinion again, which is $$. That's the benefit of these lunchbox lockers (aussie, powertrax no-slip, lock-rite, etc.) since you buy it and can put it in yourself with no setup of gears.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:14 pm 
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I put in front and rear TrueTrac's - the rear is invisible on the road - nothings slips it just goes,

the Front - when we had the Ice storm and I put it in Full-Time - it was GREAT!!! everything straight and stable.

(downside is you that you can feel the front even in 2 Wheel Drive - not much but you know it's there)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 8:46 am 
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ATXKJ wrote:
I put in front and rear TrueTrac's - the rear is invisible on the road - nothings slips it just goes,

the Front - when we had the Ice storm and I put it in Full-Time - it was GREAT!!! everything straight and stable.

(downside is you that you can feel the front even in 2 Wheel Drive - not much but you know it's there)



ATXKJ, did you do it yourself or did you pay someone to do it? Can I asked how much it cost?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:58 pm 
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Christmas present - I think they were about 800 for both and I put them in
(I don't know that I'd do that again - but I needed to try it once)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:17 pm 
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I'm thinking about this set up: 265/75R16s, regear to 4.10, stronger axles and greasable U-joints, Detroit Locker rear, TrueTrac front.

Would regearing to 4.56 instead of 4.10 be better?

Does anyone make stronger front axles? I didn't see any listed under Yukon or US Gear.

XJMA - you wrote that disadvantage of TrueTrac is that it requires having to replace the whole carrier and set up the ring & pinion again. Can you please elaborate on that? What did you replace it with?

Setting up the ring & pinion again isn't a problem since I'd be regearing anyway, right? Or is there more to it?

Also, once I replace my Trac-loc with a locker, can I save money on a new front LSD by putting my Trac-loc in the front? Would that work?

Ivan

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:32 pm 
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The front and rear Truetrac are different sizes - front is a Dana30 (about 7 1/2" ring gear) and rear (for everyone except JFerg) is 8 1/4" - - for the Truetrac you take out the old carrier and ring gear - remove the gear and bolt it to the new TrueTrac carrier and then assemble everything.

What I've read on the Powertrax is that you leave the existing carrier and Ring gear alone - you pull the side gears out of the inside and replace with the Powertrax - assembling it inside the existing carrier. - You don't pull the gear out - so you don't have to adjust it.

One of the concerns I had on the Powertrax/any automatic Locker is driving in Ice/snow - I've heard they can make both tires slip at the same time - I'm not worried about that with the Limited slips - and reality is I have to drive 900 highway miles to get to the 9 miles of trail I bought the Jeep for - Limited slips just made more sense for me than a Locker.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 8:11 pm 
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You can't go to 4.56 gears unless you want to make your kj 2WD, 4.56 gears only avalible for the 8.25 and not the dana30a(only 4.10's is the lowest).


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