265/75s, no rubbing & no pounding, trimming, or cutting?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:03 pm

Quote:

unixxx

Yukon also makes a yoke for the Chrysler 8.25":

Quote:

The Yukon YY C52070345 is a 27-spline pinion yoke, specifically designed for the Jeep Liberty's Chrysler 8.25" rear axle.

8.25" 1330 CHY 27spl STRAP, 1 1/16" CAP, JEEP LIBERTY, OUTSIDE_SNAP_RINGS

Cool! Thanks unixxx i didn't now that,may have to pick on up when I need to change my u-joints.

Ivan · **Posted:** Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:15 pm

OK, I haven't learned much about re-gearing yet...full of questions:

So, Yukon makes stronger axles for our 8.25... Do they also make 4.10 gears for the KJ? How about better U-joints?

If I change out the rear gears, do I need to change out the front as well?

What about the ring & pinion that I've read so much about? Or are we talking about the same thing?

How do Yukon match up to US Gear?

TJKJ - Did the Truetrac LSD go right into your front, or did you have to do any mods to make it fit?

Do all KJ 8.25s use a 27 spline axle shaft? I thought some had 29. The Eaton catalog lists two Chrysler C-clip axles, one with 29, and one with 27. Can someone clarrify for me?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:23 pm

Yukon does make 4:10's for the 8.25,I have them in there right now.U-joints,get spicer ones with grease zerks.Yes,if you change the rear gears you have to regear the front as well,you have to get a used dana30a from a 4-banger kj,buy a new one at dealer,or you can buy the gears them self(unixxx has a good writeup and pt#).I like Yukon gears better than us gear but that's my opinion.Yes the TT went right in,need one for a dana30 w/27 spline axles.The KJ 8.25 has 29 spline axles but a 27 spline pinion yoke which unixxx stated above.So you need to get a locker/lsd and axles for a 29 spline 8.25(yes there are 27 spline 8.25's but used in XJ's).Hope I answered everything,if not doing a search will bring up alot of answers.

Ivan · **Posted:** Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:45 pm

Thanks - that's a tough looking KJ you have by the way.

So, I can just change out my front gears without swapping out the front case itself, right? I'm assuming that would save me money. Is there a down-side to this?

Also, what do you like better about Yukon over US Gear? I don't have a preference yet, just want to make an informed decision and pick the best quality product I can.

Thanks, Ivan.

unixxx · **Posted:** Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:28 pm

tjkj2002, excellent summary; I think you pretty much covered it all!

I'd say that Yukon and US Gear are pretty equal, but all the hard core off-roaders insist that US Gear is the best. I would have gotten US Gear for my 8.25, but my supplier was out of stock. The one drawback of the Yukon gears is that they have non-standard pinion depth markings, which make them slightly more difficult to set up.

You can change the front gears without swapping a four cylinder front diff into your Libby, but gear installation is pretty involved. You need to be dedicated, have the right tools, and have an alternate vehicle to drive for a little while. Ring & pinion gears are in fact the same as "gears."

I actually sell a ton of Jeep Liberty related drivetrain parts through my company's online store:

http://c-comp.com/index.php?cPath=72

Ivan · **Posted:** Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:49 pm

OK, thanks guys, that's a lot of great info. I appreciate it.

I noticed that RRO sells 4.10 AND 4.56 gears. Which would be the best gears with 265/75 R16s? Is 4.56 for tires much larger than that?

Also, for more money, RRO sells the axles with rebuild kits. Is it worth doing the rebuild if I change the gears? Their rebuild kits come with "all applicable bearings, seals, shims, locktight, pattern grease". Or is this a waste of time, effort, and money?

Ivan.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:00 pm

Ivan wrote:

OK, thanks guys, that's a lot of great info. I appreciate it.

I noticed that RRO sells 4.10 AND 4.56 gears. Which would be the best gears with 265/75 R16s? Is 4.56 for tires much larger than that?

Also, for more money, RRO sells the axles with rebuild kits. Is it worth doing the rebuild if I change the gears? Their rebuild kits come with "all applicable bearings, seals, shims, locktight, pattern grease". Or is this a waste of time, effort, and money?

Ivan.

IIRC, RRO does not sell the correct gears for the D30A KJ front diff and AFAIK, there are No 4.56's for the D30A at all. YOu have to go to the dealer for the D30A 4.10 front gears or an aftermarket dealer that sells Mopar gears.

unixxx · **Posted:** Thu Feb 22, 2007 5:00 pm

JJsKJ is correct, the lowest gears for the front are 4.10 and they will have to be the Mopar brand.

You'll definitely want a rebuild kit. The old pinion bearings will be shot once you pull them and you can't properly set up the gears without an assortment of shims and a tube of pattern grease. You'll also need a few general and special tools. Check out these five pages for axle reference info and (partial) gear install guides:

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_Liberty/Gearing

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_Liberty/Chrysler_8.25%22
http://www.fuzzymuzzle.com/Car/Gear_Install/Chrysler_8.25.htm

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_Liberty/Dana_30a
http://www.fuzzymuzzle.com/Car/Gear_Install/Dana_30a.htm

Skipperb · **Posted:** Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:37 pm

Yesterday, I took the spacers off and that 2" did make a difference . no rubbing in the back,but I will have to replace the left bumper stop its gone.On the front I have the rub on the inside finder well at full lock,when it touches I just let off a little,( I will have to live with that ) until I get and try 1.5" spacers. The antenna on the back is for my ham radio it is called a screwdriver and is electrally adjustable on the diffrent bands.raises up or down for the SWR at diffrent bands
Here is a pix of the antenna and front of my Liberty(hind thought, I could have left the Bumper on and taken out the finder liner and been just as happy. The lights are on the bumper now in the picture of the antenna the back window has the reflection of my tower and antennas

Ivan · **Posted:** Fri Feb 23, 2007 6:52 am

OK, so when I switch to 4.10 gears, it sounds like the easiest way for me would be to get a new D30A from the dealer with the 4.10 gears already in it. And install the TrueTrac in there.

Are there stronger front axles available as well? I couldn't find any on the US Gear or Yukon websites.

Ivan.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 23, 2007 8:22 am

For the front CV's the factory one's are pretty strong but Jeepin by Al has JE Reel shafts that are supposed to be stronger than the factory shafts.

unixxx · **Posted:** Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:01 pm

Ivan, it would probably be cheaper to rebuild your D30a with 4.10 gears than buy a new one. If you buy the complete axle at the dealership you'll get hosed and if you buy it online you'll pay a fortune for shipping. The gears themselves are around $150 and gear/TrueTrac installation $500. Installing the TrueTrac requires removing the ring gear anyway.

Ivan · **Posted:** Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:06 am

OK, makes sense. Thanks for the run-down.

I've been looking at both the US Gear and Yukon webpages. The Yukon site is much more user friendly. Wish US Gear's site was as easy to find things on.

Ivan.

unixxx · **Posted:** Sat Feb 24, 2007 7:07 pm

US Gear doesn't need to make their website pretty because they mostly sell to companies rather than individuals. Supposedly Dana gears are just as good or better than US Gear gears. I'm pretty sure that Gris put some in his front D30a.

Ivan · **Posted:** Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:23 am

OK, didn't realize that about US Gears. I emailed them requesting a printed catalog. I'll take a look at Dana too.

In the description of their ring & pinion gear, Yukon says to grind one tooth to clear pin. Grinding a tooth off sounds like a bad thing to do. What are they referring to? Does this apply to all ring & pinions or just theirs?

Also, do I want reverse rotation in my front 4.10s? Not sure what that means.

Thanks, Ivan.

unixxx · **Posted:** Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:59 am

You only need to grind a ring gear tooth when the teeth stick out too far and block the cross shaft. This shouldn't comprimise the gear and is only required for certain carriers. I had to grind my Yukon 4.10 pinion gear to clear the ARB Air Locker but didn't have to grind the ring gear to clear the cross shaft. It all depends on the carrier. The front gears are standard rotation.

shawn_vancouver · **Posted:** Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:22 pm

Hey, i put the mud terrain with a set of 06' Rubicon rims on my o6' sport, carfully pounded over the pinch weld, rino coated that spot, and i have no rub except on steep decents with the wheels at full turn. I am hoping that the Trail Ready bumber will eliminate that. I was using a procomp 3"lift which is crap. Every pot hole made the hugest clunk from my a arm hitting the alu billit spacer.

Ivan · **Posted:** Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:13 am

OK, thanks for the info guys.

Does anybody have an email address for JE Reel?v I couldn't find any front drive shafts at the JE Reel webpage, and they don't have an email address listed so I can ask them about it.

Thanks, Ivan.

265/75s, no rubbing & no pounding, trimming, or cutting?

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