Ok for some of you have been seeing post about RC lift kit, you know why i am going to put this up.

#1. I want atleast 3 to 5 Inch lift
#2. Suspension Lift 100% no spacers, no Pucs, nothing like that... all springy and such

#3. who makes anything out there?

#4. I have spent 3000.00 So far, i dont really care for the price anymore, i just want it done right so that i can get out there and do some serious trails.

#5. Oh please dont recommend Rought Country, there not getting another penny from me.

Please let me know whats available

Go with the Rustys 2.5". It is your best bet, at least till SuperLift releases there 4" kit sometime this fall. It is realy one of the best kits. The Frankin Lift is about 0.5" taller but it uses lift springs & poly spacer in front. If you realy want 3"-5" just wait for SL.

#1. The maximum lift you're going to get (or want) is about 3.5" and even then you're going to have to be very careful that your CV and/or ball joints don't destroy themselves. Jeepin' Al has apparently managed to get around 4" by the use of custom upper A-Arms.

#2. No-one does a spring-only lift that high. The biggest coils (I believe) you can get are the Skyjacker 2.5" rears. The only lifted front springs available are the Old Man Emu ones from ARB. And they're about 40mm.

#3. To get this kind of lift you have to combine springs with spacers and front strut jiggery-pokery of some kind. I know people here swear by the Frankenlift. I have the Suburban 3.5" Superlift and I'm very happy with it.

#4. If money's truly no-object then take a look at what Jedijeeper did with his SFA conversion. For the record, my KJ and plenty others do "serious trails" with way less than 5" of lift! Also for the record, I've spent more that $15k on my KJ, there's more to building a capable off-road vehicle than lots of lift.


#5. OK. I won't.


Check out Troy's KJ Links and Parts which has pretty much every KJ component and kit going;
http://www.youngs.org/kjparts/

I posted a fairly comprehensive list of all the available lifts recently:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=1915

The general concensus was:

Best Lift: Frankenlift
Best Value: Rusty's Spring Lift

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Jeff 2005 Jeep Liberty Renegade
4x4, 6spd, Leather, Sunroof, trak-loc, skids/rails, hitch+shackle, hooks, Alpine/iPod, Thule, GPS, CB, Frankenlifted w/ 31" MTRs
Photos Cardomain

ALMOST anything other then the KJ 7 up LOL

~JUD

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JuDdY

Hey everyone,

The new 2005 knuckles I have ordered from my buddy at MOPAR, and the Steel Grand front diff case are both on back order. If you remember the new Liberty knuckles are aout an inch higher than the 2002-2004 ones. I did get a price of $285 ea. for the Grand knuckles, and they are about 6 inches higher. Why is this important, this will keep the upper a-arm in the OEM mounts when I come up how to lift the front end.

When I did the rear (see lift experiment postings) I could have contacted skyjacker and asked them to cut springs at 5 inches and that would have eliminated the 2.5 inch daystar pucks. I still may do that in the future.

The front I was thinking of using a adjustable coil over shock (like Bilstien or fox) with the strut end. I am planning to do something like the Liberator (?), and place a 2 inch spacer between the existing subframe and the unibody. This will lower the entire suspension and steering. New motor mounts will be needed to be welded to the spacer steel.

This with either that Dana 44 I picked up or the steel cased Grand front dana 30, should allow 33-35 inch tires. Total lift should be 4 to 5 inches max. This will also allow for good road manners and not subject ones Liberty to the inspection of the local police!

This is what I am planning for the winter. I just ordered a new subframe, since I can't find a used one. If any one sees a wrecked Liberty, hit hard in the rear at a scrap yard, let me know I need the subframe and lower arms as well as the rack for my design and fabrication session this winter.

The only problem with doing something like this is the crush zone in the subframe and than getting it out to the LOST group, either to purchase it from me or some other lift manufacturer or plans you can use to build it yourself.

I am doing this, because I want a lift that will keep the Liberty a Liberty, not some Liberty/old Cherokee hybred, and not a TJ. I like having the independant front end, and I would like to keep the Liberty as close to "stock" factory configuration as I can.

We are doing things with our Libertys that DC never thjought we would do, therefore, to continue to ride like we do, we need to make the factory items better (ex. the front diff case).

Any input??????

Enough rambling and I need to get back to work....

Al

PS I did have my front end at 4 inches, but my CV joints just made too much noise, and even with the new upper arms I got contact with the spring at full extention. What is nice about my arms when you do get contact with the spring its metal to metal, unlike the OEM arms which is either the ball joint or its boot contact with the spring.

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One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
Former owner of a 5.5 inch lifted KJ

Forgive me if I didn't understand it entirely correctly, but does that extra inch on the 2005 knuckles (vs 2004 and earlier) allow us 2005 owners to lift with less problems in the front than previous years, even without the modifications and custom work?

_________________
Jeff 2005 Jeep Liberty Renegade
4x4, 6spd, Leather, Sunroof, trak-loc, skids/rails, hitch+shackle, hooks, Alpine/iPod, Thule, GPS, CB, Frankenlifted w/ 31" MTRs
Photos Cardomain

If any of the 'big' lift companies are reading this, please throw some money at Al, or sign him up or something. This is the kind of thinking we need!


OK, they're still called Cherokee's here, but apart from that; Amen Brother!

Al, regarding the front diff. The steel Grand version can't be cheap can it? Have you investigated getting steel 'copies' of the standard aluminium diff casing made? Any casting company should be able to take the aluminium casing, make a mold based on that, and then re-cast it in steel. Obviously there'd be an initial outlay involved in getting the mold made, but the steel casings should then be pretty cheap to produce.

Even if people didn't (for some reason?!?) want to fit your 5" lift they'd probably welcome the chance to fit a steel diff casing so they can run an ARB air-locker in the front without fear of breakage.

The longer or higher arms will help with the lift kits on the market today and generally makes my redesigned arms useless on 2005 models.

BTW my buddy said he would not be getting a 2006 parts manual for the Liberty, which means, in his mind their will be no more Libertys!

The steel Grand/Commander front axle has a cast steel pumpkin with an alum. axle tube. I ordered a new case, no guts (I have a couple of dana 30 out of wranglers sitting around) to compare it to the Liberty dana 30 case I have. The axle tube should be able to be removed and changed with the one from the Liberty, if its not a direct match.

I will not know until I get the new axle delivered and I can look at it.

Until I get the thing, I most likely will not look for a casting company. I am in luck however, there is a machine shop around the corner from me that does high tech military stuff, and the owner passed off the mayor's hat to me (so I know him well and he still likes me), and said he would help me on my in any interesting projects and designs I come up with. I haven't bothered him yet......

HEY I LIKE THE IDEA OF being hired by a lift company, or.......I am ALWAYS LOOKING!! HINT, HINT, HINT to all of you lift companies out there!

When I finally grow up, I would like to work in the aftermarket truck and car industry!!

Al

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One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
Former owner of a 5.5 inch lifted KJ

According to to the wife that would be never

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"CHROME DON'T GET YOU HOME" "Just because I don't care dosen't mean I don't understand" Homer J. Simpson

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