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 Post subject: Sawzall blade
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 9:13 am 
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Sine I will be needing to trim the rear fender flares for the new bumper, I need to know what is the best blade to use on a sawzall.

No experience using one. Would a band saw be better?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 9:26 am 
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For the plastic, you would want a fine tooth blade.

A dremel would would probably work out great also.. :)

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 9:42 am 
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I used a utility knife on mine and it worked great. I just taped them to get a straight line and then scored the plastic w/ the knife very carefully and then finished cutting through. Other than not being perfectly even from the left side to the right side, the cuts come out great.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 9:46 am 
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Yeah a fine tooth blades is what you want. Also spend the extra dollar or two and get a quality blade (dewalt, mikita, etc) vs the no name habor freight type blades.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:02 am 
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The blades for cutting metal are great. I second the motion of getting a good name brand blade as well. I have the poopy Harbor Freight blades and I scold myself for even having them every time I use them. Also, a sawzall isn't really a precision cutting tool. You would be better off with a jigsaw with a thin blade and steady hand for getting nice curves or like mentioned above a dremel or what JJ suggested.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:05 am 
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Anyone got a lazer?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:11 am 
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I would use a dremel
This is what I used to mount the swiches for the ARB locker in the TJ and it cut the dash like "butta"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:24 am 
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reciprocating saw on a fender? Holy cow!! :P That's like a surgeon taking a one to heart surgery. My KJ would start up and drive away if I came at it with one! :P I'd use a dremel. I 3rd or 4th the notion of spending $$$$ on great bits/blades. There is a huge difference between the cheapies and brand names. When I first started with woodworking 5 years ago I bought a cheap router bit set off of eBay. Now one Freud bit costs me more than that whole set I bought years ago. But the difference is incredible! I've just about replaced all of them with all Freud. They last longer, cut better which saves me time for golf! :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 1:16 pm 
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I definitely would not use a sawzall. Way too harsh.

I used a sabre saw with a wood blade. Sounds counter-intuitive but it gives a much better cut and straighter too. The cut was so clean I didn't have to use Marty's plastic stick on thingies.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 8:42 pm 
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Yeah a sawsall is way overkill. Right up there with a chainsaw for this application. :lol: It will shred those flares.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:38 pm 
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I would recommend against a dremel.

I used one to trip the bottom of my front bumper to eliminate the little splash guard that hangs down. It melted the plastic more than cutting it, no matter what speed I tried. I didn't really care if it was not perfect becuase noone sees it, but on a fender it might not be the best choice.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 11:07 pm 
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Tokyo, I will assume that you aren't "down with the sawzall" if you are curious as to what blade to use.... but the best answer would be a milwaulkee 18tpi.

How are you trimming the flares? Would a hot knife work better? Perhaps a 45watt soldiering iron? Just a thought.

I have probably trimmed thousands of feet of metal with a sawzall and believe that it can be done, but if you are learning how to use one I wouldn't reccomend using it on the jeep.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 11:19 pm 
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pixeldzn wrote:
I would recommend against a dremel.

I used one to trip the bottom of my front bumper to eliminate the little splash guard that hangs down. It melted the plastic more than cutting it, no matter what speed I tried. I didn't really care if it was not perfect becuase noone sees it, but on a fender it might not be the best choice.


X2. Dremmel on plastic isnt the easy for the length of cut you're looking for and will melt more than if cuts. Use it to clean the edge if anything, not the initial cut.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 12:37 am 
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No Sawzall experience. I know it isn't light so keeping it straight would be tough. I plan to test the dremel on a not so conspicuous place to find out how it does.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 1:07 am 
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I like the idea of scoring it with a sharp knife blade or cutting with a fine jigsaw blade depending on the type of jigsaw. I’ve cut plastic using my Dremel and it does seem to melt the softer plastics. I haven’t really cut anything like ABS or other solid types of plastics to verify. The best of LUCK! Please post some photos when you have it completed! :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 8:02 am 
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Joe, are you taking the fenders off? If you are, I would advise using a wax crayon or chalk to mark your line and get some quality shears to trim the fender, try and stay within 1/4" of the line and then use sandpaper to get it to the line. Just be careful not to sand the front because it will uglify the plastic.

You have the sport fenders? (not painted)

Just be careful not to crack the plastic. Shears (or tin snips) would definently work. Even large sicsors.

Also, depending on how you cut them, look into a shaviv deburring tool which will allow you to put a professional looking chamfer on the edge.
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Just run it along the edge keeping the pressure even... the tool is around $10.00 and is very useful around the house for deburring pipe (copper, or PVC) and for any holes you might drill into metal.

I use mine all the time. The manufacturers website is http://www.shaviv.com
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 10:15 am 
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I have an `04 Renegade so I have those painted flares and the plastic looks a little different from the sport flares.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 10:39 am 
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For the ARB bumpers they say to use a plain old hole saw, thats what I used with a little sand paper to take down the edges and done, simple, effective and best of all cheap. You dont need all the extra $$$$$ tools , just remember just like any wood working project, measure twice, cut once :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 11:07 am 
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hole saw?

The bits you use to cut holes for doorknobs?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 11:33 am 
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I just used a hacksaw with a real fine toothed metal blade...worked perfect...I just clamped the flares down to a table and cut away...no burrs, no filing after

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