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 Post subject: Clevis Lift
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:04 pm 
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So finally, I've decided to do a clevis lift........just simply cause it's cheap. Now, I went out and bought those conduit nuts everone is using and I tried putting them on once I had everything dissassembled. To my dismay, the conduit nuts were slightly to big. They were on but not tight enough to stay on the shock (I'm using OEM shocks). So, as per instructions from a few individuals here, I decided to ditch the conduit nuts, and used a metal braket that allowed my to get inform spacing of the shock and clevis. After that I torqued everything to spec. Hopefully it's going to hold.

Are there any other options other than the conduit nuts? or should I just leave the shock to let it float freely in the clevis (tightened off course)?

I've also decided to leave the front sway bar on (for offroad) just to prevent the front shocks from bottoming out as I still don't have a longer bump stop for the front? Which ones would you guys recommed and where can I get them?

Also, I didn't do an alignement yet. Although it does drive straight I can see that there is a slight change in the suspension geometry.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:39 pm 
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I have no spacers with the clevis lift I did over a year ago and the strut never slipped down in the fork, You should be fine. As far the alignment goes, IMO if your rig isn't pulling to any one siode then I would say you are good and dont need an alignment.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:45 pm 
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Not to hijack this thread, but could someone please send/PM me a link to the post(s) that describe how to perform the Clevis Lift, preferrably with pictures? Once again, the search function is useless. I got results for pictures of siblings, rear air deflectors, and skids...? What's up with that!? Thanks for the assist.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:57 pm 
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Here's the link:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=168

It probably takes 15-20 minutes per side at most.

As for my alignment, it does drive straight but I can see that the toe as well as the camber changed slightly.

If you want the cheapest most effective mod for your KJ than I think this is it. You can't go wrong and if you don't like it, it's like 5 minutes to return it back to normal.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:42 pm 
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Get an alignment anytime you change the height of any vehicle you change the alignment, even if it goes down the road straight .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:46 pm 
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an alignment does more then just make the car go straight, it also adjusts camber and toe which will keep your tires from wearing wrong

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:53 pm 
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The conduit nuts will slide over the little lip on the stock struts. You can buy enough of the nuts to pile them up so that they hit the bottom of the strut.

The OME struts have a bigger lip and the nuts will not slide past it. Ive heard the rancho struts also have the smaller lip, im not sure if the nuts slide past them of not though.

You should be fine by not using the nuts. Be sure to torque it to 100ft lbs.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 7:01 pm 
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Yes the conduits will slide up over the lips on Ranchos Thats why I have 4 or is it 5 :? per side because the first couple slid up over. Now I have to go out and look again :x

Tom

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