hello - after doing a little reading I am thinking about doing the ORM. I did the EHM last year. I just need to find out how to clear the CEL before I do it. Can someone verify the correct method to clear the light.

Also - do you guys follow the owner's manual recommended timeline for changing the axle fluids? If so, any recommendations on type of fluid - any tips.

Thanks

You can go to any Autozone or other chain auto parts stores and have it done for free, or you could just do 3 start up's and turn-off's after plugging it back in and CEL will clear on iots own.

For initial change and after that just when I feel it may need it, such as driving in a lot of deep water or highly dusty areas. I have a trailer tow package, but have never towed & I has never been off the hard pavement so I will just do it when mood hits me. Unless I go puddle jumping.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

3 full heat/cool start stops, if I get the gist of other threads, can't just sit in the driveway and start and shut off 3 times. have not tried yet to say with conviction.

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'05 CRD limited, SEGR, EHM, Magnaflow 18" muffler, OEM skid plates, bug guard, trailer kit, yakima cross bars and basket, CAT filter,
....more to come.....

There is lot of wear metals in the diffs of any new vehicle after the breakin. Since no filtering is done, I have usually changed out ALL the fluids after the first 5-10K miles.

There seems to be quite a difference on change recommendations in the owners manual. Wonder who put that together. I go with synthetics throughout the drive train and go about 50K. I tow infrequently, but am off road quite a bit. Not through rivers and such, just in the farm fields.

Most people don't give as much attention to drive train oil changes as they do the engine. I have found some to be almost anal about engine oil changes and the drive train is almost an afterthought. As I stated, I would change ALL the fluids after a 5-10K breakin, then go with a good quality synthetic throughout, and go with your gut on the frequency after that.

Oh.... regarding the rear diff... forget the RTV!!! There is a great gasket made by these guys that negates the use of RTV and the mess. I use it on my Libby and it is great! Makes changing out the rear a painless process. The DCX Chrysler 8.25 is the one you want in their online store.

www.lubelocker.com

Enjoy!

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.

I can also vouch for the lubelocker gasket, I've have it on the the CRD for almost a year w/o any leaks.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine