Think I get what you are saying.
Here's how it works...
Parking lights come on and electricity flows through the NC (normally closed) relay to your SINGLE (Sw 2 in diag.) switch. The switch passes electricy and splits into 2 wires, 1 to each relay for that set of lights. the NO (normally open) relay is then charged, closes, and passed elec from the fuse block to your lights.
That part, minus the NC relay, is your basic light wiring schematic.
Where I changed it was adding the NC relay. It is normally closed, so by default, passes electricity if it is not getting any juice. When it gets juice, it opens and cuts the flow.
You run a highbeam wire to a switch (Sw 1 in diag) located somewhere hidden from view (only you know about it). From the switch it goes to the NC relay.
When this switch is turned OFF no electricity can get from the high beams to the NC relay, meaning the parking light signal can flow thru the switch and turn on your new lights.
When the switch is ON, high beam power goes through it, opening the NC relay and cutting power from your parking light, which in turns cuts the electricity that closes the relays passing your power from the fuse block to your new lights.
conclusion:
SW1 on or off, SW2 off: Lights on the roof are off because SW2 is off.
SW1 off, SW2 on: Lights on the roof are on because you turned them on and because the high beam signal is being blocked from he circuit.
SW1 on, SW2 on: Lights on the roof are Will come on with parking light or head lights, but will turn off when High beams are turned on.
So put SW 2 somewhere in your cabin that is easy for you to control on a regular basis. Put SW1 in the glove box, under the seat, etc... so that you can switch it before and inspection to set the lights to a legal operating mode.
Got it? Any questions?
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