It is currently Tue Nov 03, 2026 11:46 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 33 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: oil filter
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 12:15 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:26 pm
Posts: 62
Can anyone recommend an oil filter, need to do an oil change and would like to know the best oil filter to ues for the CRD.
Thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: oil filter
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 1:06 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member

Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 8:37 pm
Posts: 7928
Location: Big Bear & Lancaster, Ca.
cutezangel wrote:
Can anyone recommend an oil filter, need to do an oil change and would like to know the best oil filter to ues for the CRD.
Thanks


Amsoil EAO34 or EAO26 for a little more capacity.

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 1:45 pm 
Offline
LOST Junkie
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:12 am
Posts: 764
Location: NoVA
I just use the Puralator PureOne

_________________
Ryan
2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
**GONE**
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
SAMCO Hoses//GDE Tune//PML Trans Pan//TransGo HD Shift Kit//MBRP Exhaust

1986 2R Mustang SVO


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:04 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member

Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:23 am
Posts: 3544
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Ea034 oil fliter and EaA201 air filter...both Amsoil. Good quality products. I would not use the longer on the CRD because of how low the OEM sits.

_________________
Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:22 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 2:32 pm
Posts: 378
Location: Danville, Va
RTStabler51 wrote:
I just use the Puralator PureOne


Ditto. I use the same.

_________________
O|||||||O

LOST #-169388
'79 CJ-5
32x11.50x15
304 V8

'08 Chevorlet HHR
Victory Red
Stock for now.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:38 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:59 am
Posts: 188
By far the Amsoil filter is the best hands down. They only $13.55 and the aire filters are $26, while or at it use the DEO 5W-40 at $5.70 a quart. Now you can go 1 year or 25K miles. Don't let anyone trick you into being a preferred customer either because their are some that will sell you product at that cost without doing all that.

Greg

_________________
Greg
www.lubricationspecialist.com
888-306-4255


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:51 pm 
Offline
Banned For Abuse on LostJeeps.com

Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 2:44 pm
Posts: 1856
Location: Buena Vista, CO
NAPA gold, or now you can get a Motorcraft at my Walmart for it. Either is a good filter.

_________________
2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 4:16 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member

Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 8:37 pm
Posts: 7928
Location: Big Bear & Lancaster, Ca.
Click here >>Amsoil products at Cost for more info.

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 7:52 am 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member

Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:23 am
Posts: 3544
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
LanduytG wrote:
By far the Amsoil filter is the best hands down. They only $13.55 and the aire filters are $26, while or at it use the DEO 5W-40 at $5.70 a quart. Now you can go 1 year or 25K miles. Don't let anyone trick you into being a preferred customer either because their are some that will sell you product at that cost without doing all that.

Greg


I don't think anyone is "tricking" people on this forum. Also, 25K is a realistic OCI (Oil Change Interval) but an UOA (Oil Analysis) would be a good idea during that time/length interval to make sure the oil is standing up and protecting. Once you have done some UOA's and had positive results them you can go for extended intervals with confidence. With UOA's results in hand, warranty issue coverge will be easier to back up at dealerships.

_________________
Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 9:01 am 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member

Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 10:51 am
Posts: 477
Location: Kellogg, IA
DarbyWalters wrote:
LanduytG wrote:
By far the Amsoil filter is the best hands down. They only $13.55 and the aire filters are $26, while or at it use the DEO 5W-40 at $5.70 a quart. Now you can go 1 year or 25K miles. Don't let anyone trick you into being a preferred customer either because their are some that will sell you product at that cost without doing all that.

Greg


I don't think anyone is "tricking" people on this forum. Also, 25K is a realistic OCI (Oil Change Interval) but an UOA (Oil Analysis) would be a good idea during that time/length interval to make sure the oil is standing up and protecting. Once you have done some UOA's and had positive results them you can go for extended intervals with confidence. With UOA's results in hand, warranty issue coverge will be easier to back up at dealerships.



Absolutely!!! Do a few oil analysis samples for gauge how the oil is holding up! Don't go to extended oil changes on ANYTHING without doing oil samples and checking.

Each engine, like each woman, is different. Only oil analysis will let you know change interval. I like doing the analysis to check on the status on the engine. It is like a "blood test" and can let you know of a problem before it ruins the engine, like a coolant leak or a bad injector.

_________________
*************************************
Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 3:34 pm 
Offline
LOST Junkie

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2005 11:27 am
Posts: 640
I'm sorry, I just don't get the hype about Amsoil products. If the oil is so wonderful, why do they not participate in the API testing which shows minimum standards. I realize they have a "botique" status, but without testing who really knows for sure. Yes I have heard the stories, (" I got a million miles on my Kenworth, etc) but without independant tests it is just that-anecdotal stories.

To me, oil arguments are like the two kids yelling about who is better: Batman, or Superman.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 3:42 pm 
Offline
LOST Junkie
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:07 am
Posts: 746
Location: Nashville, TN
I agree. Today's oils are so much better than they were 15 or 20 years ago. Yes, you can still buy el cheapo bargan basement oil and go wrong, but buying oil from any big name manfacturer is safe.

Ever pay attention to the analysis data on oil. Look at the measurements. PPM...that stands for parts per million. Even see a million of something. It's a LOT. So when you start talking about a difference of a few hundred PPMs, that's like peeing in the ocean. You aren't going to notice a difference.

All the miracle stories about fuel mileage improving, HP and torque jumping up 5 or 6 numbers, yadda, yadda, yadda...in my opinion is just BS.

Change your oil. It's cheap. Use a good brand of synthetic oil. Amsoil, Red Line, Mobile, Shell, etc. Change it every 5000 miles or so. Why in the heck would you want extended drain intervals unless you're driving a big rig for a living. CRDs are daily drivers. Most of us aren't pulling 60,000+lbs around all day. Don't worry about it. Just change it and drive.

_________________
Chad Hargis
Nashville, TN
2008 Grand Cherokee CRD
2005 Liberty CRD *SOLD*


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 4:18 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member

Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:23 am
Posts: 3544
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Well test oils on a dyno and you can see differences...power and temps. I raced for Mazda and did plenty of testing with oils and coatings. Oil analysis can tell you about a problem before it is terminal. Different metals mean different things and can point you to the right solution. They can even let you know that dirty air is getting past your air filter, if you have a coolant of fuel leak, ect. They give you much more information than TBN left. I do agree that if you just change your oil on a regular and frequent basis...you will just fine 90% of the time. The thing about "mileage increases"...those are very hard to measure short term but better wear patterns using synthetics keeps your engine "newer" and will give you more "mileage-fuel" and "mileage-age" IMHO.

_________________
Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 10:05 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member

Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 10:51 am
Posts: 477
Location: Kellogg, IA
The main thrust of the discussion I thought was originally oil filters and extended intervals. That is what led to the Oil Analysis discussion that Darby and I suggested.

It is not a matter of what oil brand you use. It is always good to do oil analysis to check on status of oil and engine. If you don't want to use Amsoil, don't. No one is pulling on anyone's body parts and forcing them to use one product over another.

Just because Amsoil does not want to spend the approx $100K on EACH oil grade just to get an API rating does not mean anything. Independent testing has shown Amsoil exceeding just about every oil out on the market, including Mobil 1. Also, most of the oils sold do not provide a written warranty regarding the product as Amsoil does.

If you are happy with Mobil 1, Rotella, etc stick with them. Don't you love just living in a country where you can choose what you want? I hope we always have so many choices. It makes the buying fun! :D

_________________
*************************************
Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:41 pm 
Offline
LOST Junkie
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:07 am
Posts: 746
Location: Nashville, TN
I agree that a UOA is a good idea. I've done a few on my motorcycles, but I ride them hard and take them to the track. HP per liter is WAY higher than cars.

Now, my CRD spends most of its time plodding along turning 2,000 rpm. It's not a sports car, and I don't drive it like one. I do tow from time to time, but nothing extreme. Maybe 2000lbs tops, most of the time much less (like 1200).

Funny thing about new oils...I know a guy who claims that any vehicle will go 100,000 miles without doing any maintenance other than changing the engine oil once a YEAR. Yep...once a year. His logic is that he's going to sell his car before 100,000 miles and he'll get just as much for it as those of us who carefully maintain our. His theory is that we'll both take a huge loss when we sell, only he won't have to experience the cost of mantaining the vehicle.

I can't tell you how many PERFECT cars I've sold just because I got tired of them. I maintain my vehicles in excess of factory reccomendations. I am very anal about my cars and bikes. I take good care of them. I actually enjoy maintaining them. Every car I've sold has been perfect in every way, yet I took a loss on the sell, and lost all the time and money I put into the car.

_________________
Chad Hargis
Nashville, TN
2008 Grand Cherokee CRD
2005 Liberty CRD *SOLD*


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:49 am 
Offline
Banned For Abuse on LostJeeps.com

Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 2:44 pm
Posts: 1856
Location: Buena Vista, CO
chadhargis wrote:
I agree that a UOA is a good idea. I've done a few on my motorcycles, but I ride them hard and take them to the track. HP per liter is WAY higher than cars.

Now, my CRD spends most of its time plodding along turning 2,000 rpm. It's not a sports car, and I don't drive it like one. I do tow from time to time, but nothing extreme. Maybe 2000lbs tops, most of the time much less (like 1200).

Funny thing about new oils...I know a guy who claims that any vehicle will go 100,000 miles without doing any maintenance other than changing the engine oil once a YEAR. Yep...once a year. His logic is that he's going to sell his car before 100,000 miles and he'll get just as much for it as those of us who carefully maintain our. His theory is that we'll both take a huge loss when we sell, only he won't have to experience the cost of mantaining the vehicle.

I can't tell you how many PERFECT cars I've sold just because I got tired of them. I maintain my vehicles in excess of factory reccomendations. I am very anal about my cars and bikes. I take good care of them. I actually enjoy maintaining them. Every car I've sold has been perfect in every way, yet I took a loss on the sell, and lost all the time and money I put into the car.





I agree with you and your guys thinking. Oil anaysis can be useful for troubleshooting or trying to "milk" every last mile out of its useful life. But for the regular Joe, and those of use that trade our vehicles in every 2-3 years, it is probably a waste. If you are one that changes the oil every 3-5000 miles, and then trades it in within say, 4 years, you have done the next owner a great service. Have you helped yourself in the process? Not counting piece of mind, probably not.

_________________
2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:14 am 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:16 pm
Posts: 282
Location: Upper Midwest USA
I performed oil analysis on my CRD because I was/am considering extended oil change intervals. This is the first vehicle I performed oil analysis on and I'm glad I did. The analysis helped me determine a realistic and reliable interval to change my oil. The huge thing it did for me was provide evidence of a poor air intake system. I changed over to the '02 airbox and silicone levels dropped significantly (around 35%). Was the expense and extra effort of oil analysis worth it to me? YES! :)

Oil anlaysis also helps me "document" for purposes of my extended warranty that I am performing routine maintenance (oil changes at least) on my CRD. Plus, I'm putting alot of miles on my CRD; in a little over 3 years, Ill have 100k on this vehicle.

I'm a big believer in oil analysis now. I'll probably perform it on all of my future vehicles.

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD Bright Silver Metallic (NOW SOLD)
All Recalls Performed
100k extended warranty
Fumoto Oil Drain Valves (Oil Pan & Transfer Case)
V6 Airbox Mod
New Driveshaft, New EGR
2003 Wrangler Sport 4.0L, Bright Blue
2007 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited 4 Door, Red Rock Crystal Pearl WOW!!!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:09 am 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:01 am
Posts: 1944
Location: Mooresville, NC
If the vehicle is just a weekend toy or a hobby project, then yes you'll end up losing money in the long run any way you look at it.

OTOH, if it's a daily driver, your primary commuter or work vehicle that enables you to earn a living, money spent on regular maintenance to extend it's life as long as possible after it's paid off will enable you to earn far more money in the long run that what the original purchase price and yearly maintenance cost you.

It's like the difference between a plantation owner who spends money to buy and maintain a race horse to run in the Kentucky Derby once a year and the rest of the time is lolling out in the pasture, and a farmer who buys a horse to plow his fields so he can grow crops to feed his family and pull his wagon to market to sell those same crops.

That '87 Subaru wagon I had cost me $12K brand new, and toward the end of it's life I was spending around $500/year on maintenance. Over it's 20 year life, that car enabled me to earn far more money in just one year than what it's original purchase price and lifetime maintenance probably cost me, and 15 of those years were sans a monthly car payment.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:59 am 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 12:56 pm
Posts: 1830
Location: Spokane, WA
I too did my first oil analysis on my CRD and for several reasons.

> I purchased it during a special program that included 25K service at 5K intervals. That promotion is passed and I will be self-maintaining from now on and I wanted a baseline of where it was under dealer maitenance.

> With self-maintenance I will be changing to AMSOIL oil filters and Rotella and likely move from 5K service intervals to 10K intervals. I will likely pull another test about 3K>5K into that change of filters and oil to see if it has affected wear and also to see if 10K service intervals are reasonable. I think that is well worth $43.

> Finally, I plan on keeping this Jeep a very long time.

_________________
Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 9:23 am 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am
Posts: 308
Here's my take on extended oil change intervals: The trick with long change intervals is filtering. Most stock, full flow (that is, all the oil goes thru the filter from the oil pump) filters filter to 10 microns. The oils we have today are good enough to go a lot longer that a full flow filter will allow, especially full synthetic which can be used indefinitely. The problem is that extending the change interval with a full flow filter will be build up particules of <10 microns which is resposible for a lot of wear. In order to safely extend the interval, a bypass filter of some type will need to be used to filter to <10 microns. This combined with analysis can allow one to use very long intervals safely. I looked into this for my Cummins and ultimately decided against it. However, I have done analysis on my 01 Cummins and have increased my interval from 3K to 5K on dino oil and standard filter.

The AMSoil guys will tell you that it is cost effective to change over to full synthetic, bypass filter, oil analysis and only change the filters for maintainance. (Change the oil only if analysis indicates). That's probably true and much more convienet that changing oil every so often. However, the newer engines of today, CRD included, are built to very high tolerances and this keeps the sooting of the oil much lower allowing for longer intervals on regular oil and filters. (The 06 Cummins has a 15000 mile interaval on the light duty schedule). So I haven't been convienced to change over yet. If you are going to try to extend you interval, be sure you monitor things closely and have good filtering.

_________________
HERS:'16 WK2 Limited EcoDiesel - GDE hot
HIS: '06 Liberty CRD - EHM , GDE eco, Brite Box, Stanadyne FM100, Cummins lift pump, OME lift
'06 Dodge/Cummins - Play truck; a couple of fans, a proper cam shaft, and man handled electrons by EFILive 500/900
'01 Dodge/Cummins - Work truck; Lots of mods


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 33 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt!
Logo by pixeldecals.com