Roof Rail Question

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Mon Jun 18, 2007 8:41 pm

I have the shiny rails. I read that the weight limit for them is 65lbs. Has anyone ever taken them off for any reason? I was thinking that they must be hollow so if I could get them off maybe I could put some steel inside to strengthen them. What do you guys think?

Terry

kjfishman · **Posted:** Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:53 pm

Fulltimer wrote:

I have the shiny rails. I read that the weight limit for them is 65lbs. Has anyone ever taken them off for any reason? I was thinking that they must be hollow so if I could get them off maybe I could put some steel inside to strengthen them. What do you guys think?

Terry

I thought the weight limit on the black ad polished rails were the same just a different finish. That said I use Saris load bars and have both my kayaks at the same time, one weights 70 lbs the other around 50. Nothing has broken yet. I have also had 3 sheets of 3/4 MDF no problem. Some guys have tent campers that mount on the roof and have not broken anything. I would say they are sturdy enough for anything resonable you might want to toss up on top.

Maximum Carnage · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:44 am

On mine I have the Yakima low riders and the load bars as you can see in the first picture.

This is the picture of my roof basket before I installed the lights, it rests on the Yakima load bars. I have climbed my arse up their and have never had anything fail. I weight just under 200lbs :oops:

pokefan · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:49 am

Maximum Carnage wrote:

I weight just under 200lbs :oops:

Light Weight! :lol:

Maximum Carnage · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:53 am

pokefan wrote:

Maximum Carnage wrote:

I weight just under 200lbs :oops:

Light Weight! :lol:

Not with the liquor :-)r

USAFCOP · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:52 am

The bars are not hollow all of the way through (at least on the thinner '02 style).

The weak point is not the bar itself, rather it is where the plastic foot meets the metal bar. If it works itself loose and has any play, there will be carnage from the metal rubbing (wearing a notch) and then breaking the foot off of the bar. Your weight needs to be evenly distributed, and you need to occasionally inspect all screws for tightness if you load the rack frequently or wheel alot. I did not check mine, and paid the price because it snapped and ripped the nutzerts out of my roof.

Also remember, the weight listed in your owners manual may not be really the max for the bar, it also takes into account the handling of the vehicle with extra weight on the top. Just something to consider when you load the top.

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2007 12:36 pm

I was in my locale hardware the other day and saw a good heavy stainless steel handicap bar for a shower. It was 3' long with a flat plate with 4 screw holes in it. Too bad it wasn't longer. I guess I'll be okay with what they put on the KJ. It's just that I would rather have overkill than not enough strength.

Terry

JeepinG · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2007 1:07 pm

I had the shiny 'Renegade' rails on mine, and ripped them off immediately when I found out the weight limit. Get the regular rails, they support up to 160 lb, and they will mount right up. About a 20 minute job.

Big D · **Joined:** Mon Jun 05, 2006 10:08 pm **Posts:** 349

Since the plastic part is the week point, has anyone experimented with additional supports under the bars, just to distribute the weight more easily?

spoonplugger1 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 20, 2007 12:07 pm

ARBSeth has a roof tent, but he does not have the original rails. He built a custom set and has said he would not put a tent on the stockers.

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