ive heard of several people having issues getting the frankenlift put together free of problems mostly from it being too high cv boots tearing ect, axles not reaching anymore or barely, yadi ya ya. here's an idea, put the franken lift together w/ out the spacers run it for months till it all settles, then put in the spacer lift in to get the full effect. wouldnt that solve most of the issues?

o8k

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2008 Tacoma:
4.0-liter DOHC EFI V6 with VVT-i ... 236hp 266Ft-lbs
265-70R16 BFG Rugged Trail (stock).... Rear Locker (stock)
Bilstine 2.5" lift front + ProComp AAL 2" lift rear
LIFT #s Front engine skid 12" @Rear Diff 10.5" @running board 21" @tx case 16"
6spd Manual Tranny
http://o8k.ifp3.com <-- My Photo gallery

Sounds good. However.........one of the big advantages to the Frankenlift, is that the struts are pre-assembled, eliminating the need, and danger, of using spring compressors. That's a GOOD thing. I've compressed some springs, before, didn't have problems, but: I was nervous as a long-tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs. If I have my druthers, I'd rather NOT have to compress the struts. Which brings up another question? how much would it cost to let an auto place compress the springs? If it's not much, then heck yeah! Taking the pucks out for 4 - 6 weeks sounds like a GOOD idea!

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E.E.P. for my Jeep (EMPTYING EVERY POCKET)
2004 Limited - Stock no more
JcrOffroad sliders-Trail tested, mud approved
Frankenlifted
Al's A-Arms
Stock Skids
235/70/16 Cooper Discoverer HTPs

That is one of the things Quinn suggested. I did not like the idea of taking the CRD back apart... so I left it as is.

Just remember that if your going to do this with a new CRD Frakenlift, you are going to need a big spring compressor that can handle the 500 pound springs.

Honesty, I think the CV's get tore when you put the lift on 99% of the time. I tore mine putting it on. The mechanic tore the next one putting it on. Since that one tore, I have seen no new tears and I have been driving it for three weeks now. It barely touches at full drop and a little sand paper on the clevis will keep that from tearing it when it rubs it every now and then.

It is a bear to get the strut on the drivers side of some CRDs without tearing the boot (when you align the clevis to attach it to the lower control arm the clevis wants to pinch the inner boot between the strut/clevis and the axle shaft's case).

I am getting the neoprene boots from J.E. Reel sometime this week (got 2 incase I need them...). The mechanic has a few ideas about how to put it on without tearing it. Will report back...

Bummer, you're going to have to remove the clevis again to get the new boot on because the CV will not clear the clevis bracket inside. Pablo, I'm sorry to hear about that.

I had to drop the lower control arm to get my frankenlift on the drivers side. Two jacks and a couple of ratchet straps later and it was on, but was difficult to say the least. I cussed it out the whole time, but I love the front of the KJ now. So much better.

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2006 CRD Sport