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 Post subject: Hella wiring ?
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:10 am 
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I've just installed my Hella's recently and per the wiring diagram the instructions say to run the blue wire to your brights. I didn't want to limit my lights to only be on when my brights were so I thought I would just bypass it all together. Nope! Turns out, that must have been the remote. So I ran it to the brights to check and sure enough it's the remote wire. Why in the world do you need a remote for lights?!?:evil: I personally think that's stupid but whatever.

So my question. How has everyone here ran they're wiring what do you tap into? I've thought of just hooking into the cig. lighter but If I can I'd like something that goes on and off with the ignition.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:15 am 
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The blue wire is the power for the relay (You did use a relay, didn't you?) That makes it so they only come on when your brights are on. You will need to run the blue wire to some other item besides the cig lighter. Not enough amps for the relay power and to run what ever else you plug into it at the same time.

Check with a test light or meter for a good switched power source (and NOT the AIR BAG lead) and hook it up to that. See if there is a fog light fuse and jump off of it maybe. that way the low beams will make them work.

There is a post on her somewhere on how to bypass the low beams for your fog lights so they stay on even when the high beams are worrking. Anybody remember where that thread is?

There is no "Remote" for these lights.

Two power sourses. One HIGH amp to the lights from the relay, one low to medium amp source to the relay to power it when you throw the switch and the relay makes the connection from the HIGH amp to the lights. The lights are grounded either by a ground wire or just by their mount. Seperate ground for the relay and switch. Sounds confusing by it realy isn't. Just find a good POSITIVE 10 or 15 amp power source to hook up the blue wire to. Preferably a switched one that way when you come home drunk and get out of the car you wont run your battery down by leaving them on in your garage all night. (NEVER done that)

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:22 am 
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WoodysKJ wrote:
The blue wire is the power for the relay (You did use a relay, didn't you?) That makes it so they only come on when your brights are on.


Yes, I'm using the relay

IIRC the blue is only the remote, the relay has a power source going straight to the battery. I'm not sure of that though cause I'm at work right now and can't look. If it is in fact just a remote I would think the cig lighter would be fine because it's just a signal and that's it. I'm no electrician though :lol:

I believe there was a fog light fuse I'll check but again, now I'm limited to my low beams. Jeez all this wiring stuff sucks. POWER, GROUND, SWITCH! Would that be so difficult? :evil:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:25 am 
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Not that big a deal.

The bkue wire needs power to operate the relay when u throw the switch. The power to the lights is the power from the battery. Whne you throw the switch it causes another switch in the relay to activate and close the circut for the power from the battery to the lights. The power (Blue Wire) needs not as much current (amps) as the lights do, but you don't want to over load a circut like the cig lighter. dozens of other possibilities.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:31 am 
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I prefer wiring up to the Radios Accessory Power (the one that turns it on when the car comes on) for my relay "remotes"

"Remote" would be an acceptable term I'd think. It's used more with Amps, but the blue "remote" wire essentially operates a relay in the amp that allows the real power to flow in.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:37 am 
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That was actually my first choice but quick thought I decided against it cause again I was thinking the Radio would have to be on. :roll:

I guess if I would've actually put a little thought into it I should've known that it supplies power to and doesn't go off with the radio

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:02 am 
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I ran both my hot and remote lead to the battery, one connection and I always have power to my driving lights. But BE SURE TO USE A LIGHTED SWITCH WHERE IT'S CLEARLY VISIBLE IN CASE YOU LEAVE EM ON!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:09 am 
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Cacher123 wrote:
I ran both my hot and remote lead to the battery, one connection and I always have power to my driving lights. But BE SURE TO USE A LIGHTED SWITCH WHERE IT'S CLEARLY VISIBLE IN CASE YOU LEAVE EM ON!
That's how I have my HID's and rear aux lights wired in,both leads going to the same 12 volt source.
Sorry but if you can't tell if your lights are left on you need more help than a switch with a light on it,might want to start with a visit to the eye doctor since there is no need to have any lights on during the day :wink: .


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:27 am 
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Like Cacher123 said, use a constant power source
U can use a 3 way switch and
Position 1
constant on: have constant power from the battery (still through a relay) to run when iginition is running (or the accessory U choose).
Position 2 off
Position 3 wired on with Low beams (as so connectd or wired).
:wink:
Now thats cool.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:32 am 
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I ran the blue wire to my park lights. that way I must have the parks lights on to turn the hellas on..

I was worried I would accidentally turn the hellas on during the day and not know it.. Its worked out perfect so far.. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:42 am 
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I think I'll run it to the battery as suggested. Only problem now is I've already cut the wire and it won't reach. would it be fine if I just wired it into the power wire running to the battery or is there another constant source coming from the fuse box that I could use?

Or maybe the radio... :? Hmm.. I don't know now...

I think I'll go with the radio it'll be easier that way just a matter of moving the wire.

Thanks for the help guys.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:59 am 
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There is also a constant power going to the radio to keep the clock and presets alive.

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/______\ ---http://jeep.allgris.com
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[]--------[] ---2.5" BDS lift, 245/75/16 MT/Rs, Moab Rims, Locked and Regeared!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 3:17 pm 
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ok so I checked it out on the radio I've got two options

#1

18) 20 amp / Radio Choke & Relay

#2

21) 10 amp / Radio

Which one of these is the constant and which is set with the ignition?

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2006 4x4 Sport ~ Dark Khaki
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Hella 500's

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