tjkj2002's air system might just work

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:55 am

sleeve84028 wrote:

Would the slower moving air of a naturally aspirated engine heat back up once it comes in contact with the metal / plastic intake ducting?

A S/C'd engine has really high air temperatures because of the compression taking place on the air so I understand the need for the Air Cooler after a S/C.

A SC engines air is not moving that much faster then a naturally asperated engine,most are from 6-12 psi(SC engines) and that's not alot,it's just a higher volume of air being moved not really the air moving faster.

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:28 pm

But the compression and forcing of that air is what heats up the air charge requiring the cooler. So the question I still have is would a cooler do much?

Icing down the intake between 1/4 mile passes always works - but what about while you are just driving in the city?

Guest · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:40 pm

the1jferg wrote:

pilot said:

the heavier solid dirt behaves quite differently than the lighter gaseous air. The dirt & air comes through the snorkle at a high velocity, the dirt strikes the filter & sticks. the air strikes the filter & either goes through, or is deflected off of the filter, to later go through in a different location. I'd theorize that most of the air goes through in places other than where the dirt is... the filter is clogged by the dirt in that location, so it goes through the clean part of the filter."

So, because of the angled shape of the box and the fact that the air is coming in at the front bottom...The rear would be dirtier than the front half if that theory were true?

Does not, the front half get dirtier?

If there is enough air pressure already to drive crap up to the top of the box into the filter then why in the heck would we need to force more air in there when the flow is strong enough anyway??

I'm gonna put ice in my filter box to cool it off like JJ said :lol:

The next time you are gazing at the dirt on your air filter, look down! The snorkel brings the air through the bottom of the box at whatever speed your KJ is travelling. The air is deflected upwards by the back of the box, so yes the air hits the back side of the filter first. The dirt gets caught in the fibers, the air does what we said before. We don't NEED to force air into the system to make it run properly.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:52 pm

sleeve84028 wrote:

But the compression and forcing of that air is what heats up the air charge requiring the cooler. So the question I still have is would a cooler do much?

Icing down the intake between 1/4 mile passes always works - but what about while you are just driving in the city?

Yes,colder air is more dense vs hot air for the same volume,denser air means more o2,more power.Also you can add a "cool can",basically a can that has a coil of tubing in which you tie into your fuel line,add dry ice and anti freeze,cools the fuel,colder fuel=denser=more power.I ran a homemade cool can on my '84 Blazer(for mud drag racing) and it helped out alot.

So to sum it all up colder air and fuel=denser,and denser air and fuel=more power.But don't forget it can decrease your MPG's since you'll be on the skinny pedal alot more enjoying the new found power

.

pic of a cool can(from jegs.com)

the1jferg · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 2:56 pm

Pilot finally said: "We don't NEED to force air into the system to make it run properly."

Thats what I was looking for. :lol:

Yall know me, I'll hash and rehash.

JJ, I want my paper filter to become wet and swell up like that girl on Willy Wonker and the Chocolate factory. H20 increases compression.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2007 4:14 pm

Water injection? Aim it right at the filter. :lol:

tjkj2002's air system might just work

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